Brake Caliper Help
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Henderson, NV
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Brake Caliper Help
So as I was cleaning my wheels today I noticed that the paint on the front left wheel is chipping on the face of the wheel slightly and more significantly in the barrel of the wheel where the rotor is. I'm thinking my caliper might be sticking? The other wheel is perfectly clean and the damage wasn't there last time I washed my car. There aren't any noises coming from the caliper/wheel and the car doesn't pull in any direction while driving or braking. After a drive, it couldn't notice any difference in temperature when comparing the front two wheels. Should I just order a new caliper or what is everyone's recommendation? If I do need to replace the caliper, what else should get replaced? The rotor and pads still look like they have plenty of life left. Would I have to get both sides replaced if the rotor and pads need to be changed? Thanks for the help in advance. Pictures below.
Front Left Wheel (damaged):
Front Right Wheel:
Thanks everyone in advance!
Front Left Wheel (damaged):
Front Right Wheel:
Thanks everyone in advance!
#2
Looks like your wheels are chrome plated. Unless the caliper is leaking, a dragging caliper would have nothing to do with the flaking you're seeing. Are your wheels OEM's that were chrome dipped or are they aftermarket? It is very common for strong wheel cleaners/degreasers to eat that chrome plating off.
#3
Looks like your wheels are chrome plated. Unless the caliper is leaking, a dragging caliper would have nothing to do with the flaking you're seeing. Are your wheels OEM's that were chrome dipped or are they aftermarket? It is very common for strong wheel cleaners/degreasers to eat that chrome plating off.
I doubt it is related to caliper heat, though you should take the caliper pins out and lubed once a year to keep them from sticking as a good maintenance procedure.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Henderson, NV
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The wheels are OEM AP2V1 in the chrome finish.
Just took it into a brake shop to have it inspected. Looks like the caliper isn't releasing as it should. Basically what they told me is the inside pad is sticking to the rotor and isn't releasing as fast as it should be. The inside brake pad is less than 3mm when the rest of the brake pads are at 7-8mm. The inside of the rotor is very worn too, too the point of having a noticeable lip on the outside. Although, the rotor is not warped. The right side is perfectly fine.
So the shop tells me I need new front calipers, new front rotors, and new front pads...for both front wheels. They are saying I can't just replace the caliper and turn the rotors, because the rotor will warp after a few more thousand miles. Do I definitely need to replace parts on the side that is fine? Or is the car going to pull if I don't?
Just took it into a brake shop to have it inspected. Looks like the caliper isn't releasing as it should. Basically what they told me is the inside pad is sticking to the rotor and isn't releasing as fast as it should be. The inside brake pad is less than 3mm when the rest of the brake pads are at 7-8mm. The inside of the rotor is very worn too, too the point of having a noticeable lip on the outside. Although, the rotor is not warped. The right side is perfectly fine.
So the shop tells me I need new front calipers, new front rotors, and new front pads...for both front wheels. They are saying I can't just replace the caliper and turn the rotors, because the rotor will warp after a few more thousand miles. Do I definitely need to replace parts on the side that is fine? Or is the car going to pull if I don't?
#6
I would pull the caliper off the bracket and pull out the two caliper pins. Keep track of which one came out of which hole as they are specific to each location with slightly different shapes. If the pins are really dry or rusty and stiff to remove they may simply need cleaning and a good lube. I would inspect them and go from there, as you may not need a new caliper. If the caliper pins look like they still have some decent lube on them then the caliper piston may be stuck. Put a bit of brake fluid on the outer edge of the piston and under the seal and see if the piston can be retracted smoothly. If it is really stiff then it may need rebuilding or replacing.
I would replace the brake pads and rotor. Give the lines a good bleed while you are at it. Determine if the caliper pins or the piston is the issue and go from there.
I would replace the brake pads and rotor. Give the lines a good bleed while you are at it. Determine if the caliper pins or the piston is the issue and go from there.
Trending Topics
#8
You can definitely turn the rotors as long as there is enough material to machine off and leave them above minimum spec. You don't have to replace both calipers either. I'd do like Fusion said and make sure you don't have sticking slide pins.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post