Body Shop Fixed My Car
10-03-2007, 12:42 PM
#11
How many miles are on the new tires? They will be pretty squirmy for a couple hundred miles until the mold release is worn away. It's not just on the surface of the rubber but penetrates a little.
10-03-2007, 04:41 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by LubedKoala,Oct 2 2007, 11:37 PM
They replaced the rears with the correct tire size.
But Billman's comment is probably right on...needs an alignment.
10-04-2007, 01:00 AM
#13
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make sure that the sidewall/speed rating are the same on your fronts and backs. my bimmer had z rated in the front and h rated in the back and i felt like all hell was about to break loose every time i got on the freeway.
just a thought...
just a thought...
10-04-2007, 05:16 PM
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It's not the tires guys. All my tires are properly inflated and have the correct sizes. My tires do need to break in though, but I know these tires and how they act brand new. There's definitely something else going on. I'm taking the car back early next week for them to see what's going on. I'll keep ya'll updated. lol, care to see my itemized receipt?
10-08-2007, 04:55 PM
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Is it possible to find something to counter the loss of frame rigidity in the rear?
I'm pretty sure the slight frame damage and new quarter panels is what is causing my car to do this.
some sort of reinforcement like x-brace, anti-sway bar, etc?
I'm pretty sure the slight frame damage and new quarter panels is what is causing my car to do this.
some sort of reinforcement like x-brace, anti-sway bar, etc?
10-17-2007, 06:13 PM
#17
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Got the car back from the shop. Part of the problem was that one of the rear rims had a bent hub and so had to be replaced. Alignment was good. The car handles a little better, but at higher speeds (70+) the rear end does have little too much play in it.
Given my circumstance, would it be better to go with a rear lower tie bar, rear strut or rear X-brace? You know, to help counter the frame/quarter panel damage. I know these will at least help my situation by increasing the frame's rigidity, but I didn't know if there was one I should go with first.
*I'm not expecting a full restoration of the car's handling, just want something to help it.
Given my circumstance, would it be better to go with a rear lower tie bar, rear strut or rear X-brace? You know, to help counter the frame/quarter panel damage. I know these will at least help my situation by increasing the frame's rigidity, but I didn't know if there was one I should go with first.
*I'm not expecting a full restoration of the car's handling, just want something to help it.
10-22-2007, 10:11 PM
#18
Hi, before you spend money, try this:
Take your rear wheel off.
Loosen all the the upper and lower control arm bolts (at the bushings that connect to the frame). Make sure you don't turn the eccentrics that set the alignment (or mark them so you can turn them back to where they were).
Put a jack under the lower control arm, and jack it up until the top control arm is about parallel to the ground.
Now tighten the control arm bolts.
This should take some of the pre-loading out of the bushings (they were supposed to do this when they installed them). That pre-loading made my car handle like crap (the rear felt like it was floating on a waterbed). And it took me months to track down. Might not be your problem, but it's worth a try.
Also: Make sure your shocks are still ok.
Did they fit new coilovers? If they fitted used one, make sure they're from the same model year.
Take your rear wheel off.
Loosen all the the upper and lower control arm bolts (at the bushings that connect to the frame). Make sure you don't turn the eccentrics that set the alignment (or mark them so you can turn them back to where they were).
Put a jack under the lower control arm, and jack it up until the top control arm is about parallel to the ground.
Now tighten the control arm bolts.
This should take some of the pre-loading out of the bushings (they were supposed to do this when they installed them). That pre-loading made my car handle like crap (the rear felt like it was floating on a waterbed). And it took me months to track down. Might not be your problem, but it's worth a try.
Also: Make sure your shocks are still ok.
Did they fit new coilovers? If they fitted used one, make sure they're from the same model year.
10-24-2007, 12:43 PM
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Hi, before you spend money, try this:
Take your rear wheel off.
Loosen all the the upper and lower control arm bolts (at the bushings that connect to the frame). Make sure you don't turn the eccentrics that set the alignment (or mark them so you can turn them back to where they were).
Put a jack under the lower control arm, and jack it up until the top control arm is about parallel to the ground.
Now tighten the control arm bolts.
This should take some of the pre-loading out of the bushings (they were supposed to do this when they installed them). That pre-loading made my car handle like crap (the rear felt like it was floating on a waterbed). And it took me months to track down. Might not be your problem, but it's worth a try.
Also: Make sure your shocks are still ok.
Did they fit new coilovers? If they fitted used one, make sure they're from the same model year.
Take your rear wheel off.
Loosen all the the upper and lower control arm bolts (at the bushings that connect to the frame). Make sure you don't turn the eccentrics that set the alignment (or mark them so you can turn them back to where they were).
Put a jack under the lower control arm, and jack it up until the top control arm is about parallel to the ground.
Now tighten the control arm bolts.
This should take some of the pre-loading out of the bushings (they were supposed to do this when they installed them). That pre-loading made my car handle like crap (the rear felt like it was floating on a waterbed). And it took me months to track down. Might not be your problem, but it's worth a try.
Also: Make sure your shocks are still ok.
Did they fit new coilovers? If they fitted used one, make sure they're from the same model year.
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