Blown spark plug
12-19-2011, 08:04 AM
#11
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So I was going to check the plugs to see if anything was wrong... A bolt on the cover got stripped in the process so I got a drill bit and drilled a pilot hole then used a striped screw remover bit but the bit broke in the bolt. After dealing with that I removed the plugs and found the second plug from the front bumper had been destroyed.. So here are all the plugs..
I do have a nitrous system installed but I have not used it in a year or so ~ 10k miles.. The plugs are one step colder copper(?) ngk plugs I put them in when I was spraying and have just left them in. I also checked the plugs often when I sprayed. This occurred after the last time I sprayed.
I ordered another set of stock plugs they should be in tomorrow but should I even put them in.. what should I do next..
After searching I have found I need to do a compression test and pull the head to check for damage.. fun fun...
I do have a nitrous system installed but I have not used it in a year or so ~ 10k miles.. The plugs are one step colder copper(?) ngk plugs I put them in when I was spraying and have just left them in. I also checked the plugs often when I sprayed. This occurred after the last time I sprayed.
I ordered another set of stock plugs they should be in tomorrow but should I even put them in.. what should I do next..
After searching I have found I need to do a compression test and pull the head to check for damage.. fun fun...
You stated you put the plugs in a year ago while on the spray?
LOOK at the GAP on all the plugs!! 1 looks gaped to about 17-20 and another looks gaped to like 40. Just want to say... (you didnt gap them right when you put them in, You didnt change the plugs every few 1000 miles while on the spray( even if you didnt spray for a year you should have changed them because YOU DID spray with the same plugs in)... and you didint torque the plugs down to spec.) SO... what have we learned today??
1. you should know that you need to replace the plugs after a few 1000 miles while on the pray.
2. Always check the plugs gap
3. Always torque the plugs down
4. Clean that engine bay.. I bet that noise was a squirrel that got sucked into your mani!
5. DO it right the 1st time and you wont have to go back and fix it.
A few other things I just noticed....
1. Stop being CHEAP and using FRAM oil filters!
2. Fix the valve cover oil leak.. Its like $15!
3. All the relays and wires for the spray you have all over the place should have been ran into the car NOT under the hood. As I see there next to the battery.. so that means you didnt want to run longer wires into the car... Lazy...
4. Clean all that battery corrosion off the battery! cost $1.00.
5. If you clean your motor you might find a golden ticket!
Dont get me wrong... Im always helping people out with there S2k's. But I FUC***G hate it when someone dont take care of there stuff and then it craps out and they want to post up.....( help me ).
12-19-2011, 08:26 AM
#12
Dont put OEM plugs back in the car if its on spray either... NGK 2668, and gap them to .040 or .40 i forget which one. These are 1 step colder which will run better with spray. ^^^ This guy above me is on point.
12-19-2011, 09:43 AM
#13
Moderator
Good eye on the gaps.
Sad to say...engine damage is a direct result of the loose spark plug. Check the coil pack on the same cylinder. It will be charred flat black.
Sad to say...engine damage is a direct result of the loose spark plug. Check the coil pack on the same cylinder. It will be charred flat black.
12-19-2011, 09:47 AM
#14
Moderator
Anyway whats done is done...heres what you do.
Put new plugs in run the car till warm, 3 bars, shut it off. Remove all plugs, disconnect injector clips, and do your compression test.
If you have HIGH compression in the cylinder with the broken plug, you have cylinder wall damage. Excess oil will get past the rings and raise the compression.
Put new plugs in run the car till warm, 3 bars, shut it off. Remove all plugs, disconnect injector clips, and do your compression test.
If you have HIGH compression in the cylinder with the broken plug, you have cylinder wall damage. Excess oil will get past the rings and raise the compression.
12-19-2011, 10:28 AM
#15
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r
1. When I was spraying I checked the plugs often never replaced them because I was under the impression that if they were not fowled out or something was obviously wrong they could be put back in.
2. Each plug was gapped to 38 before being put in the engine
3. Each plug was torqued 12-15 ft lbs
4. I do need to clean my engine bay yes...
5. I try to do it right the first time as I do not like doing it twice...
1. Some people like fram some people hate it... It seems to be a matter of opinion on here so...
2. Not sure about the valve cover oil leak I will have to look into that.
3. Really you shouldn't make assumptions like this. Their is a lot more to the relays than you would believe and the electrical engineer that I finally turned to to sort it all out thought it would be best to put them where they are. They do need a fuse between them and the battery but you didn't catch that
4. That corrosion happened over the period of a couple weeks some how I just noticed it yesterday despite checking my oil every fillup needless to say the corrosion is now gone..
5. I don't really like umpalumpas so maybe this is a good excuse to never clean the engine...
I figure if I do not know whats wrong I can take it to a dealer and have them fix it. Or I can figure it out by doing research and asking people who may have encountered this problem.. Its not like I am asking any one to fix the car I just wanted an idea of what to look for and opinions on what should be done..
You stated you put the plugs in a year ago while on the spray?
LOOK at the GAP on all the plugs!! 1 looks gaped to about 17-20 and another looks gaped to like 40. Just want to say... (you didnt gap them right when you put them in, You didnt change the plugs every few 1000 miles while on the spray( even if you didnt spray for a year you should have changed them because YOU DID spray with the same plugs in)... and you didint torque the plugs down to spec.) SO... what have we learned today??
1. you should know that you need to replace the plugs after a few 1000 miles while on the pray.
2. Always check the plugs gap
3. Always torque the plugs down
4. Clean that engine bay.. I bet that noise was a squirrel that got sucked into your mani!
5. DO it right the 1st time and you wont have to go back and fix it.
A few other things I just noticed....
1. Stop being CHEAP and using FRAM oil filters!
2. Fix the valve cover oil leak.. Its like $15!
3. All the relays and wires for the spray you have all over the place should have been ran into the car NOT under the hood. As I see there next to the battery.. so that means you didnt want to run longer wires into the car... Lazy...
4. Clean all that battery corrosion off the battery! cost $1.00.
5. If you clean your motor you might find a golden ticket!
Dont get me wrong... Im always helping people out with there S2k's. But I FUC***G hate it when someone dont take care of there stuff and then it craps out and they want to post up.....( help me ).
LOOK at the GAP on all the plugs!! 1 looks gaped to about 17-20 and another looks gaped to like 40. Just want to say... (you didnt gap them right when you put them in, You didnt change the plugs every few 1000 miles while on the spray( even if you didnt spray for a year you should have changed them because YOU DID spray with the same plugs in)... and you didint torque the plugs down to spec.) SO... what have we learned today??
1. you should know that you need to replace the plugs after a few 1000 miles while on the pray.
2. Always check the plugs gap
3. Always torque the plugs down
4. Clean that engine bay.. I bet that noise was a squirrel that got sucked into your mani!
5. DO it right the 1st time and you wont have to go back and fix it.
A few other things I just noticed....
1. Stop being CHEAP and using FRAM oil filters!
2. Fix the valve cover oil leak.. Its like $15!
3. All the relays and wires for the spray you have all over the place should have been ran into the car NOT under the hood. As I see there next to the battery.. so that means you didnt want to run longer wires into the car... Lazy...
4. Clean all that battery corrosion off the battery! cost $1.00.
5. If you clean your motor you might find a golden ticket!
Dont get me wrong... Im always helping people out with there S2k's. But I FUC***G hate it when someone dont take care of there stuff and then it craps out and they want to post up.....( help me ).
2. Each plug was gapped to 38 before being put in the engine
3. Each plug was torqued 12-15 ft lbs
4. I do need to clean my engine bay yes...
5. I try to do it right the first time as I do not like doing it twice...
1. Some people like fram some people hate it... It seems to be a matter of opinion on here so...
2. Not sure about the valve cover oil leak I will have to look into that.
3. Really you shouldn't make assumptions like this. Their is a lot more to the relays than you would believe and the electrical engineer that I finally turned to to sort it all out thought it would be best to put them where they are. They do need a fuse between them and the battery but you didn't catch that
4. That corrosion happened over the period of a couple weeks some how I just noticed it yesterday despite checking my oil every fillup needless to say the corrosion is now gone..
5. I don't really like umpalumpas so maybe this is a good excuse to never clean the engine...
I figure if I do not know whats wrong I can take it to a dealer and have them fix it. Or I can figure it out by doing research and asking people who may have encountered this problem.. Its not like I am asking any one to fix the car I just wanted an idea of what to look for and opinions on what should be done..
12-19-2011, 10:51 AM
#16
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70k miles and your motor looks like that? My motor is spotless and I DD the car and it has 150k miles on it. No wonder your having car issues, do you take care of it at all?
12-19-2011, 03:28 PM
#20
Moderator
Anyone who is not 100% sure of their plug torque should check them.
Serious damage can occur without this simple check. 20 is good, higher MIGHT be better. I have to do a test here and I'll make a new thread. Problem is, most 1/2 drive torque wrenches start at 20, and may not click off resulting in stripping the threads with a wrench that big. I make them hand tight. You can feel when the gasket makes contact. Then the resistance will raise as you compress the gasket. Then you will feel the resistance raise greatly. this is where you can give it that snug by hand. Most people stop at gasket contact for fear of stripping. this is NO GOOD.
A 3/8 drive cranked up to a high setting of 20 is the way to go. A 1/2 drive cranked down low is asking for trouble.
i estimate I am at 22 ft-lbs.
Serious damage can occur without this simple check. 20 is good, higher MIGHT be better. I have to do a test here and I'll make a new thread. Problem is, most 1/2 drive torque wrenches start at 20, and may not click off resulting in stripping the threads with a wrench that big. I make them hand tight. You can feel when the gasket makes contact. Then the resistance will raise as you compress the gasket. Then you will feel the resistance raise greatly. this is where you can give it that snug by hand. Most people stop at gasket contact for fear of stripping. this is NO GOOD.
A 3/8 drive cranked up to a high setting of 20 is the way to go. A 1/2 drive cranked down low is asking for trouble.
i estimate I am at 22 ft-lbs.