ryanmdel

Hello everyone, it's time for another session of Ryan's car broke within a week of a track day.

So last night a friend and I did a full brake job on my AP1 (2000MY) upgraded the rear disks to the URGE Flow rotors and installed a fluiddampr (reviews to come). Then on the test drive while the driveline was probably still too cold (coolant had just gotten to temp) I did a redline shift into 2nd and bam no power with a terrible clicking/grinding noise. I popped the clutch back in and tried 1st gear again but the same noise happened while releasing the clutch (I have no problem getting in any gear). I towed it back to my garage this morning and I can make the passenger side rear tire spin on jack stands but not the drivers side, I first tried spinning by hand then put it in gear and partially released the clutch. There is no play in either wheel.

From searching around on the forum I'm thinking this is the axle or cv joint but wanted to get other opinions and thoughts of what to look for. There's nothing that looks out of place on the bad axle, the passenger side boot looks like it was twisted out of place a little (on the diff side) but that wheel is working fine. Any chance the diff is the issue? I changed the diff fluid last December, although I could change it again and look for metal if there's a chance its the problem.

The car is lowered on motion controls, has 145k miles, the PO was an auto-crosser who liked to launch the car and then I started tracking it so its endured some abuse. I do believe it is still on the original clutch so I would think it wasn't too beat up plus I have never launched it.

I'd really like to have the car ready for the track by next weekend. I can order an axle today if it will get here in time and it seems like that is the issue but I was also looking at spacers, modified CV buckets, or even DSS 2.9/insane shafts aftermarket axles. I don't mind spending a little extra to make sure this doesn't happen again but I wouldn't want to do something that caused too much vibration and hurt my diff or was unnecessary since I'm NA now and never plan to go beyond a supercharger and 350hp. I also wouldn't want to rush ship something only to find out I also need a hub and it won't be ready in time anyway.

I'll take a better look at it tonight but now I have to help my friend prep his mustang which he will probably let me drive if the s2k is out of commission this weekend.

I appreciate any thoughts on this, recommendations of what to look for, or parts I should order to prevent this happening again!

Say Chi Sin Lo

If it is the diff, it's probably damage already sustained from your previous track day. I can't see how one redline shift on a cold start (not that I advise you to continue doing that), would generate enough heat in the diff for the necessary kaboom.

ryanmdel

Thanks for the response, I'm usually pretty good about letting the car warm up first but it was late, there was no one around and I was bedding in my brake pads so I was having a little too much fun.

After some more reading i'm pretty sure its a cv bucket or axle. It's been 4 months or so since my last track day and I'm usually gentle on the street which is why I was so surprised this happened. I guess I'll know for sure when I get the axle off but I broke 2 different 1/2in breaker bars trying to get the axle nut off and I can't seem to find a 3/4 in bar any where around me so I'll have to wait until tomorrow. I guess might as well as swap the diff fluid / check for metal while the car is in the air too.

Say Chi Sin Lo

I don't think a CV bucket/axle will result in a loss of power. From what I have heard from many accounts, CV bucket and/or axle will almost always lead to terrible vibrations when accelerating? But, I know there are better authorities than me when it comes to diagnosing noises and stuff.

ryanmdel

So I drained the diff and didn't see any metal. When I said loss of power I really meant that the left axle will not move under engine power, although we were able to push the car. I was thinking it could be spindles or maybe the I actually sheared something in the cv bucket.

Time to go buy a high end impact wrench to get that axle nut off. Just had to wait for Lowes to open since I forgot about daylight savings...

ryanmdel

So it looks like its the outer cv joint on the drivers axle. The axle couldn't go through a whole rotation at an angle which was locking up the diff. There was also some damage to the cv bucket around the outside rim, not the usual pitting. It looks like this was replaced so I'm not sure if it was re-manufactured and happened before it ended up on my car.



I'll call ballade sports tomorrow and see if they can get an axle to me in time since I'm having a hard time finding an inner joint replacement kit and that plus the CV bucket would probably cost about the same.

Say Chi Sin Lo

Why not get an OEM piece? And it looks like you're in a position where you can to afford to sit your car for a bit, I would just get an OEM piece and not deal with Ballade sports given their recent shadiness.

ryanmdel

Ballade sports rebuilds oem axles for $250 with a core exchange. Otherwise insane shafts makes a set rated to 500hp that are tempting but some people said they caused vibrations and I'd rather stay oem.

It's not my daily driver but I really want to have the car ready by this weekend since I've already paid for the track day and it's been awhile since I've done one.

Say Chi Sin Lo

Then I highly recommend you to DOCUMENT everything they say/write about what they will/will not do to your car. There are some horror stories going around in regards to both Ballade with their products and their services at the shop. Just FYI.

Billman250

You can buy the bucket, tripod, roller bearings, boot, and grease in a kit right from Honda, best way forward in my book.