Blackstone UOA - Amsoil 10w30 10k drain interval
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Blackstone UOA - Amsoil 10w30 10k drain interval
Switched last year from Mobil 1 to Amsoil 10w30. I drive about 10k a year and wanted to switch to an oil that would get me through 1 season, rather than 2 Mobil 1 changes. Last data on sheet was a 7k interval with Mobil 1. This was a 10k interval with Amsoil 10w30.
Mods are K&N FIPK, HKS exhaust, lead foot. Car has 77k on it. I added 4 or 5 quarts during this interval. This oil had 4k of highway (MA <-> TN twice), 800 miles on or around The Tail of the Dragon and a track day.
Input from the experts? I think I'm good using this oil once a year. Filter is OEM PCX.
-Mike
Mods are K&N FIPK, HKS exhaust, lead foot. Car has 77k on it. I added 4 or 5 quarts during this interval. This oil had 4k of highway (MA <-> TN twice), 800 miles on or around The Tail of the Dragon and a track day.
Input from the experts? I think I'm good using this oil once a year. Filter is OEM PCX.
-Mike
#4
Looks good on a ppm/1000 mile basis, copper and lead look exceptionally well, Iron is good for the miles. I was wondering if you had a bit of fuel , it sheared a bit but not bad. I personally wouldn't run it 12,000, it had enough additives to last but it would only shear more. This is a great run though. Thanks for posting. I'm currently running the Amsoil 5w-40 Euro formula AFL, it'll be a while before I get enough miles on it to do a UOA, but it will come. I was going to go with Amsoil 10w-30 but they shipped me 5w-40 instead and I chose to go with it, the car runs great on 5w-40 though, feels good. I'll eventually try 10w-30 as a comparison.
Silicon ain't too bad considering the K&N, it is filtering pretty good for you.
I'm surprised you had to add that much make-up oil, I went with Amsoil to help keep oil consumption as low as possible which it is famous for. Thanks for posting.
Silicon ain't too bad considering the K&N, it is filtering pretty good for you.
I'm surprised you had to add that much make-up oil, I went with Amsoil to help keep oil consumption as low as possible which it is famous for. Thanks for posting.
#5
Originally Posted by daktruckie99,Nov 23 2009, 04:00 PM
Switched last year from Mobil 1 to Amsoil 10w30. I drive about 10k a year and wanted to switch to an oil that would get me through 1 season, rather than 2 Mobil 1 changes. Last data on sheet was a 7k interval with Mobil 1. This was a 10k interval with Amsoil 10w30.
Mods are K&N FIPK, HKS exhaust, lead foot. Car has 77k on it. I added 4 or 5 quarts during this interval. This oil had 4k of highway (MA <-> TN twice), 800 miles on or around The Tail of the Dragon and a track day.
Input from the experts? I think I'm good using this oil once a year. Filter is OEM PCX.
-Mike
Mods are K&N FIPK, HKS exhaust, lead foot. Car has 77k on it. I added 4 or 5 quarts during this interval. This oil had 4k of highway (MA <-> TN twice), 800 miles on or around The Tail of the Dragon and a track day.
Input from the experts? I think I'm good using this oil once a year. Filter is OEM PCX.
-Mike
I personally do a 'quick change' after switching from one brand oil to another because you still have residual oil and deposits from the previous fill(s).
In other words, I go about 1000-2000 miles and then change the oil again. If this was your first fill, you will possibly see better results this time around.
The chemical makeup of different oils is not fully compatible regardless of what company's advertise. You will not see the full benefits of changing brands until essentially all of the old oil is out of the engine. Engine flushes are not necessarily the answer either. It's better to utilize a short oil change interval than to dump a solvent into your engine. Food for thought for others considering a brand change.
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: 17 ft below sea level.
Posts: 4,949
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
16 Posts
IF you want to change something, the only thing would be: going to a 0W-30.
Massachusetts is "up north" enough for a 0W-30 to make a difference during cold morning starts.
Unless its never started in the cold.
(but how do you get to 10k miles?)
Wear looks low.
Thanks for posting.
First S2000 UOA of the famous Amsoil ATM I've seen.
I'm kinda surpriced it did shear down a bit, starting out as 10.8 cSt.
Nothing to worry about though.
Massachusetts is "up north" enough for a 0W-30 to make a difference during cold morning starts.
Unless its never started in the cold.
(but how do you get to 10k miles?)
Wear looks low.
Thanks for posting.
First S2000 UOA of the famous Amsoil ATM I've seen.
I'm kinda surpriced it did shear down a bit, starting out as 10.8 cSt.
Nothing to worry about though.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Nov 24 2009, 03:16 AM
IF you want to change something, the only thing would be: going to a 0W-30.
Massachusetts is "up north" enough for a 0W-30 to make a difference during cold morning starts.
Unless its never started in the cold.
(but how do you get to 10k miles?)
Wear looks low.
Thanks for posting.
First S2000 UOA of the famous Amsoil ATM I've seen.
I'm kinda surpriced it did shear down a bit, starting out as 10.8 cSt.
Nothing to worry about though.
Massachusetts is "up north" enough for a 0W-30 to make a difference during cold morning starts.
Unless its never started in the cold.
(but how do you get to 10k miles?)
Wear looks low.
Thanks for posting.
First S2000 UOA of the famous Amsoil ATM I've seen.
I'm kinda surpriced it did shear down a bit, starting out as 10.8 cSt.
Nothing to worry about though.
Yes this is my first Amsoil fill. I just replaced it with the exact same stuff, I'll pull the UOA again at the end of next season.
I only drive the car hard, never commute in it so that might attribute to the shearing. if I'm not on the highway I'm in VTEC. I'm impressed with how well it held up over 10k of my driving.
Trending Topics
#8
That's a pretty good UOA. Thanks for posting.
Your Iron levels are often higher with extended time, regardless of miles. I wouldn't worry about this. Your wear metals per mile are quite good.
Your TBN is still very high and although your viscosity sheared a bit, it's still higher than many Mobil 1 UOAs I've seen. It's not affecting the wear on your engine, so I wouldn't worry about it.
Personally, I'd stick to annual oil changes just like you're doing. You could increase your miles without a problem.
Your Iron levels are often higher with extended time, regardless of miles. I wouldn't worry about this. Your wear metals per mile are quite good.
Your TBN is still very high and although your viscosity sheared a bit, it's still higher than many Mobil 1 UOAs I've seen. It's not affecting the wear on your engine, so I wouldn't worry about it.
Personally, I'd stick to annual oil changes just like you're doing. You could increase your miles without a problem.
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Melrose, MA
Posts: 598
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nice, I'm running the same same stuff. It doesn't seem to burn off as quickly as the Mobil 1 did in my car. I'm going with a yearly oil change as well which should be less than 8,000 miles.
#10
Thanks for posting this! I just switched to Amsoil 10w30 as well. I'm also thinking about doing a UOA, I'll post it if I do.
So you still burned a quart every 2-2.5k miles? Not bad, but after reading all the threads here I expected a bit better from Amsoil.
So you still burned a quart every 2-2.5k miles? Not bad, but after reading all the threads here I expected a bit better from Amsoil.