BIG MISTAKE cross threaded oil jet bolt!
12-19-2007, 07:23 PM
#21
Moderator
Dam....
For the future, you CANNOT use a 1/2 drive torque wrench.
You need a 3/8 drive. in other words, one that tops out at 15 ft-lbs.
What did you use on yours?
For the future, you CANNOT use a 1/2 drive torque wrench.
You need a 3/8 drive. in other words, one that tops out at 15 ft-lbs.
What did you use on yours?
12-19-2007, 07:31 PM
#22
Moderator
Torque spec is 16 N-m (newton meters)
It translates to 12 ft-lbs, HOWEVER...ft-lbs should never be used to torque a bolt of this nature.
A 1/2 drive torque wrench set to 12 ft-lbs will put about 18 ft-lbs on the bolt and strip the block.
It translates to 12 ft-lbs, HOWEVER...ft-lbs should never be used to torque a bolt of this nature.
A 1/2 drive torque wrench set to 12 ft-lbs will put about 18 ft-lbs on the bolt and strip the block.
12-19-2007, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by animeS2K,Dec 19 2007, 08:35 PM
I knew it was involved, but DAMN Toan! Thanks so much for fixing mine!! 
12-19-2007, 08:52 PM
#26
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holy smokes sounds like a PITA but doable i am DEFINATELY going to need some help with this one im not that inclined yet.
so this wont be able to be done in a garage with jack stands i know it would be more difficult but i dont have access to a lift since i cant get my car there the only way ima get it to my new house is to get it towed again
Toan-can you send me the exact specs of the helicoit insert you used and just basically the sizes of everything in need so that i can pick up/order things soon
it just blows me away that something so simple ends up like brain surgery and i was being so carful too this sucks
so this wont be able to be done in a garage with jack stands i know it would be more difficult but i dont have access to a lift since i cant get my car there the only way ima get it to my new house is to get it towed again
Toan-can you send me the exact specs of the helicoit insert you used and just basically the sizes of everything in need so that i can pick up/order things soon
it just blows me away that something so simple ends up like brain surgery and i was being so carful too this sucks
12-20-2007, 09:36 AM
#27
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Tools and parts needed to perform the surgery:
Helicoil 5/16-24 Thread Repair kit (part#5528-5) - available at most auto parts stores.
The helicoil kit calls for a 21/64 drill bit, but all I could find was a 5/16 bit. This will work just fine even though it is a hair bit undersized. The reason is because we are working with aluminum, which is soft and much easier to tap than steel. The drill bit I used was about 12" long (can be found at most specialty hardware stores).
You will also need to buy a 5/16-24 die to rethread the oil jet bolt. (also readily available at most hardware stores).
Keep in mind once again that aside from having to remove the oil pump, the most difficult part will probably be inserting the helicoil itself.
One important thing that I did not mention is that I modified a box wrench (sized to fit around the helicoil tool body, which is hex shaped). The wrench was bent about 80 degrees or so using an acetyline torch. This allowed me to hold the helicoil tool body tightly and not have it rotate while I was inserting the helicoil itself.
I'm not going to sit here and lie to you. This is nothing short of performing a root canal surgery. However, it can be done, you will just need to be extremely careful and most importantly, very patient.
Tip: if you accidentally tap the hole too short and the helicoil is still protruding from the oil jet hole, it is possible to "uncoil it out" using a needle nose plier. Also, as a side note, you don't want to insert the helicoil too far in either, otherwise the oil jet bolt will only have a few threads to work with. Measure out the drill and tap with some tape and you should be fine with the depth issue.
Again, good luck and let us know how things turn out.
Helicoil 5/16-24 Thread Repair kit (part#5528-5) - available at most auto parts stores.
The helicoil kit calls for a 21/64 drill bit, but all I could find was a 5/16 bit. This will work just fine even though it is a hair bit undersized. The reason is because we are working with aluminum, which is soft and much easier to tap than steel. The drill bit I used was about 12" long (can be found at most specialty hardware stores).
You will also need to buy a 5/16-24 die to rethread the oil jet bolt. (also readily available at most hardware stores).
Keep in mind once again that aside from having to remove the oil pump, the most difficult part will probably be inserting the helicoil itself.
One important thing that I did not mention is that I modified a box wrench (sized to fit around the helicoil tool body, which is hex shaped). The wrench was bent about 80 degrees or so using an acetyline torch. This allowed me to hold the helicoil tool body tightly and not have it rotate while I was inserting the helicoil itself.
I'm not going to sit here and lie to you. This is nothing short of performing a root canal surgery. However, it can be done, you will just need to be extremely careful and most importantly, very patient.
Tip: if you accidentally tap the hole too short and the helicoil is still protruding from the oil jet hole, it is possible to "uncoil it out" using a needle nose plier. Also, as a side note, you don't want to insert the helicoil too far in either, otherwise the oil jet bolt will only have a few threads to work with. Measure out the drill and tap with some tape and you should be fine with the depth issue.
Again, good luck and let us know how things turn out.
12-20-2007, 11:43 AM
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Update: I went to look at the tools used for the helicoiling procedure.
5/8" 12 point box wrench bent to 90 degrees. Used to hold helicoil tool body. This size wrench will fit tighly over the body.
To turn the metal insert "insterter rod" you will need a 1/4" 12 point socket with extension. This will work perfectly with the square head on the "inserter rod". Make sure you don't end up with the old style helicoil insterter rod that is made of plastic, there is absolutely, positively no way it will work with that old cheap design. The part number that I gave you for the kit should include the new steel inserter rod.
The two sizes given for the tools are an absolute must. I tried every wrench and socket in the tool cabinet before locationing these perfect fit sizes.
- Toan
5/8" 12 point box wrench bent to 90 degrees. Used to hold helicoil tool body. This size wrench will fit tighly over the body.
To turn the metal insert "insterter rod" you will need a 1/4" 12 point socket with extension. This will work perfectly with the square head on the "inserter rod". Make sure you don't end up with the old style helicoil insterter rod that is made of plastic, there is absolutely, positively no way it will work with that old cheap design. The part number that I gave you for the kit should include the new steel inserter rod.
The two sizes given for the tools are an absolute must. I tried every wrench and socket in the tool cabinet before locationing these perfect fit sizes.
- Toan
12-20-2007, 12:56 PM
#30
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Toan - I wish that I had this information when I did my "root canal surgery". 
I'm pleased that my Loctite solution worked, but this seems like a much better alternative.
ShMooveS2k - Good luck with the repair.
I'm pleased that my Loctite solution worked, but this seems like a much better alternative.ShMooveS2k - Good luck with the repair.
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