Better hardtop gasket found. NO SQUEEKS!
#1
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Better hardtop gasket found. NO SQUEEKS!
I wanted to wait before writing this to make sure it cured my problems and it has. After searching and reading all the advice and tech tips regarding hardtop squeek, latch rattles, and greasing the seals with shin-etsu grease ever so often. I finally found a way to stop all my rattles and squeeks.
First some of the other techniques did provide some relief from rattles using the o ring, lithium, cotton, washers and boots. But the rattles always came back in a couple weeks.I also greased the seals and the squeeks would return like clock work.
Some of the other helpful threads were:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...ic=372605&st=0
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...T&f=1&t=696020 was also helpful in use with the Plasti dip
The gasket I decided to use was something I refer to as cap tape. It's used at most shops that install aftermarket caps on pickups and we use it here at my job. I used it because it's water tite and the caps that we install do not squeek at all. And a pickup bed is going to flex alot more than our hardtop will. One roll will be enough for our hardtops and usaully runs about $6.99.
I decided to use 3 layers.
2 on the hardtop and 1 on the cars trim where the hardtop sits.
Its been months since I used this method and still no squeeks.
Its also water tite with no leeks at all.
Now onto the the latch rattles. After trying all the tips I could find on this
I finally decide to use Plasti dip. For those who don't know it's a liquid plastic that dries to a soft and flexible material. One of the most popular uses promoted is dipping your plier handles in it to create a soft grip.
I dip the part of the latch that grabs the striker.(also use the cotton method that was thought up by another member on the board).
borrowed pic.
I also dipped the end of the striker that the latch makes contact with(underneath also). The outcome to using these three methods as completely solve all squeeks and rattles.
borrowed pic.
Hope this helps others.
First some of the other techniques did provide some relief from rattles using the o ring, lithium, cotton, washers and boots. But the rattles always came back in a couple weeks.I also greased the seals and the squeeks would return like clock work.
Some of the other helpful threads were:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...ic=372605&st=0
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...T&f=1&t=696020 was also helpful in use with the Plasti dip
The gasket I decided to use was something I refer to as cap tape. It's used at most shops that install aftermarket caps on pickups and we use it here at my job. I used it because it's water tite and the caps that we install do not squeek at all. And a pickup bed is going to flex alot more than our hardtop will. One roll will be enough for our hardtops and usaully runs about $6.99.
I decided to use 3 layers.
2 on the hardtop and 1 on the cars trim where the hardtop sits.
Its been months since I used this method and still no squeeks.
Its also water tite with no leeks at all.
Now onto the the latch rattles. After trying all the tips I could find on this
I finally decide to use Plasti dip. For those who don't know it's a liquid plastic that dries to a soft and flexible material. One of the most popular uses promoted is dipping your plier handles in it to create a soft grip.
I dip the part of the latch that grabs the striker.(also use the cotton method that was thought up by another member on the board).
borrowed pic.
I also dipped the end of the striker that the latch makes contact with(underneath also). The outcome to using these three methods as completely solve all squeeks and rattles.
borrowed pic.
Hope this helps others.
#6
Alright, thanks. So Im assuming that when putting the cap tape on the location pointed out on the picture will prevent the squeeks because this cap tape provides more cushion or a tighter fit. I'll give a try though.
#7
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Cap tape requires no grease and provides more of a cushion which eliminates squeeks. I did three layers because I felt that the seals provided was not thick enough, especially when compressed. Which is why I place one layer on the cars molding also in case of any movement of the captape while installing it would still eliminate the contact between the cars molding and the hardtop.
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#10
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i just did this this morning. so far so good! only i brushed the plasti dip on to the contact areas, with a relatively light coat. hoping this lasts, cuz my new strikers seem to have taken a decent amount of wear in less than a year.