Best Spark Plugs for N/A
#21
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Originally Posted by Car Analogy' timestamp='1393722839' post='23041327
The one thing I'd be wary of with copper is the more frequent plug changes means more wear on the threads in the head, and more chance to accidentally strip the threads.
For many that risk makes the longer lasting platinum and irridium a better deal.
For many that risk makes the longer lasting platinum and irridium a better deal.
I changed mine at 43K because I had to get in there to do a valve adjust. The plugs looked pretty good but I decided to change them anyway. If nothing else pops up to get my notice I don't plan on changing the plugs for another 50K miles when I do another valve job. If you don't have to play with the plugs, I would think it is better to leave them alone as much as you can to reduce the probability of dicking it up.
Others with more experience may have different feelings.
#22
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That was a NGK Platinum. No clue what the hell happened with it but my guess is manufactured defect. Those plugs only had 15k on them. Nicked up an exhaust and intake valve to which wasn't fun.
#25
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The plugs job is to withstand detonation. How is it not the plugs fault? Now I've ran NGK's in every vehicle I've owned and never had a single issue with them. And I'm far from making an argument against NGK's as I will still use them I'm just simply pointing out that every plug has failures. It just the amount of failures is what makes one plug better then another.
#26
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That damage was not the fault of the plug, surprised you didnt have more of the motor melted.
You guys are really over thinking this.. as far as performance a new plug is better than an old plug and 90% of the time it wont make any difference assuming the heat range and gap are correct.
Iridum will last longer than copper or nickel, thats common since. you are looking at 2.50 a plug vs about $8.50 a plug. When cheap plugs wear down you throw em out, most of the time with an iridium plug you can just re-set the gap and be good to go.
You guys are really over thinking this.. as far as performance a new plug is better than an old plug and 90% of the time it wont make any difference assuming the heat range and gap are correct.
Iridum will last longer than copper or nickel, thats common since. you are looking at 2.50 a plug vs about $8.50 a plug. When cheap plugs wear down you throw em out, most of the time with an iridium plug you can just re-set the gap and be good to go.
#27
That damage was not the fault of the plug, surprised you didnt have more of the motor melted.
You guys are really over thinking this.. as far as performance a new plug is better than an old plug and 90% of the time it wont make any difference assuming the heat range and gap are correct.
Iridum will last longer than copper or nickel, thats common since. you are looking at 2.50 a plug vs about $8.50 a plug. When cheap plugs wear down you throw em out, most of the time with an iridium plug you can just re-set the gap and be good to go.
You guys are really over thinking this.. as far as performance a new plug is better than an old plug and 90% of the time it wont make any difference assuming the heat range and gap are correct.
Iridum will last longer than copper or nickel, thats common since. you are looking at 2.50 a plug vs about $8.50 a plug. When cheap plugs wear down you throw em out, most of the time with an iridium plug you can just re-set the gap and be good to go.
#29
eh, as I do see your point, personally ill just keep using the good old tried, trusted, and true copper plugs...theyre a whole lot cheaper and I track my car heavily so I don't mind changing them every other oil change
#30
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You can go to the NGK website for a quick video how to gap iridium plugs. Short answer is NOT to use the old style circular gauge gapper. Use a wire one to carefully check the gap then use the "wrench" part to ever so gently move the L shaped piece. Does not take much force.