4bang6

from the website at inlinepro;
Synthetic Oil Myths
Knowing that a person can never stop learning, I am always trying to better my knowledge. I was reading "Engine Builder," the magazine, and came across a great article by Pennzoil themselves.

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Myth 1: Synthetic oils are too thin to stay in the engine. This is not true. In order for a lubricant to be classified in any SAE grade (10W-30, 10W-40, etc.) it has to meet the viscosity guidelines, or thickness, specified by the vehicle manufacturer.

Pennzoil, "Tech Notes," Engine Builder, September 2006, 16.

Myth 3: You can

LostMotion

So straight to syn? OK.

FISH22

honestly, i would follow the manual. of course, you can go straight to full synthetic on low miles and not harm anything....buuut, i'm sure the honda engineers that put this thing together might possibly know what they are doing.

addisonc

How about Myth 6: synthetic oil are superior to dyno oil in normal driving conditions.

shiesty

Halvoline dino is the best conventional motor oil, and its cheap too.

slipstream444

Castrol GTX is fine and so is Havoline. Ford's OEM oil was rated highly by Road Rage, and would be my first choice for a dino/syn blend. It's not marketed as a blend, but is basically formulated as one.

You mentioned you were going to switch to M1 after you clocked more miles on your car. I would recommend you steer clear - read the volumes of posts involving S2000s and high M1 consumption rates.
If you want to switch to synthetic, Amsoil would be my first recommendation followed by Redline. Folks will tell you M1 is okay, but you'll need to invest in Krank Vents. Food for thought.
I will never look at another bottle of Royal Purple after a personal experience a few years ago in another vehicle. Garbage in my opinion - and they don't back their products like Amsoil and Redline do.
If you wish to use a Mobil oil, read the oil journals and see the data posted by Road Rage. He stated Delvac was better in his opinion - and Road Rage's opinion is worth considering.

chuhsi

Do you mean that M1 burns? If so, I must be lucky because I have not added a drop of oil to my car since switching to M1 over 11k miles ago.

slipstream444

Of all the oil consumption posts I've read over the years on this site - the most common is the "... using Mobil 1 and burning excessive oil" post. Congratulations - you have nothing to worry about. However, there are just as many folks out there burning M1 like it's going out of style - and as such, I would never recommend it to anyone that owns an S2000. The frequency of this type of problem and complaint is too high for it to be just bad luck.

With that being said, some of your "luck" may be more related to the fact the AP2 seems to burn a little less oil on average than the AP1 (including M1).
When I say M1, I'm referring to standard 5W30 and 10W30, not Extended Performance (EP) M1. I haven't seen any high consumption complaints involving M1 EP (which is a bit more expensive - but is a much better oil).
Additionally, the higher consumption posts typically involve those individuals that drive their car a lot more on the "spirited" side. This directly indicates M1 (standard) cannot take much abuse. This is further supported by its poor Noack volatility rating (especially for a synthetic!).
Which begs the question: why spend a premium price for a synthetic that really doesn't outperform a dino oil? When you look at all the stats and numbers - the only advantage standard M1 really has over most top tier dino oils is cold temperature pumpability. If you're going to spend the money on synthetic - buy a GOOD synthetic oil. Don't spend your money on what amounts to more marketing than performance.
I only recommend what I'm willing to use - and my money is spent on top synthetics like Amsoil and Redline. Both are proven in the lab, on the track, and on the road.