Jah2000

OEM or bust. Literally & figuratively.

bgoetz

LOL you guys are silly. Anyways... OP let us know what happens..
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haha, well im going to be tracking this car, so it running correctly and at 100% is important to me. and i decided to go with supertech by talking to Laskey Racing locally here, not by the shops that quoted me to work on my car....


i guess i never though of just driving it an option? i would be concerned with randomly dropping a valve due to their being an issue with the valve train... the money isnt really an issue, i would rather have peace of mind when thrashing it around
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Well you don't understand/appreciate what makes this such a great car to track then and neither do your friends. The Mechanics are just trying to make $ off of easy pray.

I track my car, 140k on the odometer, I have not touched a thing internally. I adjust the valves, peak at the retainers, and that is it. Oh aside from adding about 1qt every 1k (doesn't concern me the least). The car still makes 206whp, which isn't bad at all for an AP1 with minimal bolt-on parts. If something breaks, then I will deal with it in the best way possible and will not spend extra on useless things that gain me nothing. That $ is saved for the next repair that will likely be needed.

Car Analogy

I realize the racing shop that recommended the super tech components is not the shop that will be doing the work, and that this is giving you reassurance that their opinion was not influenced by monetary gain.

However it is likely their opinion has to do with familiarity. A surgeon will recommend surgery, even if there are better treatments out there.

When Billman speaks, S2000 owners listen...

Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup

s2kcrick

So going with a full Supertech Valve job is not better than OEM or could be possibly worse? Is it specifically the valves or everything? I thought that the Ti springs would prevent valve float, where as OEM will not, in the case of over rev?

jkelley

Dont put supertech or ferrera or anything other than OEM in the head. Use AP2 retainers. They will be stronger than anything else you could use.

Once again though. I believe the general consensus is that you really don't NEED this work done... but that's your prerogative.

Jah2000

Well said.

I always read that 95% of beginner, intermediatte and mid-level drivers aren't even skilled enough to drive the S2k to its' full potential, even in stock form. Especially after a few mods like sticky tires, brakes, upgraded spring/damper & sway bars ..which will bring it to even higher levels that'll be even harder to reach its' skill level.

S2k was engineered very well. From its' drivetrain to the chassis. It's good to go and track ready in stock form (unless you're trying to compete, are a pro or shooting for time attack). The engine is fine. The block's material is reinforced with fibers and the connecting rods are forged; which should give you an idea that Honda put in serious effort engineering this engine/car for maximum quality and power output (which is why aftermarket bolt-on parts don't gain much/any power ..let alone outshine OEM parts in terms of quality, fit and reliability).

Save that money and put it into something else. Especially if your plan is to track the car - then put that money into tires, suspension, track day fees, track consumables, extra rotors & pads, lots of extra fluids, more frequent maintenance, etc., etc. Since those will all get very pricey over time as you track the car.

bgoetz

Well I don't mean to say that the S2k is bullet proof on the track, but it is certainly more reliable than most. An inexperienced driver has just as decent of a shot at breaking things than an experienced driver, in some instances more.

But spending $ on useless things in the world of racing is a mistake that reflects a lack of experiance and knowledge of your car. About the time you build that head with super mega $ money valves, you spin a bearing, it is just the way things work. My advice is to do things as economical as possible so things are expendable, including the car itself.

Cevin

well upon removal of the head, my cylinder wall is fried (#3) =/

i should have listened to you guys and just drove the god damn thing until i got big problems.... now i need to decide if its worth it to source a new short block..

kinda blows the guy sold it to me this way....

jkelley

What do you mean fried? scored? cracked? I would think it would be particularly odd for only one cylinder to be damaged but not the others. But then again, I'm not a mechanic.

windhund116

Photos would be nice. Sorry, about the cylinder.