Cevin

so i took my car into a local shop to get the AP2 retainers put in, and they did a leak down/compression test as a complementary service, and found that the compression was 240/200/230/230

with #2 to have a ~20% leak down.....


keep in mind i have zero symptoms and had a compression/leak-down done when i purchased the car by a reputable shop. and it was 180/180/160/180

why the huge discrepancy?

they are telling me i need to do a full valve job and replace all of the springs /valves costing well over 2k...


im getting a second opinion, but does anyone have a reason why the test vary SO MUCH just 2 weeks apart??

also, is have a bent valve but having zero symptoms even possible? i have no ticking, no CEL, no smoke, ZERO OIL being burned up...

Slowcrash_101

Probably more burned than bent, did they check the valve clearance? Well I imagine they set it after they replaced the retainers.

Cevin

thats the thing, they didn't even do the retainers.. pretty much said i have to do a valve job... he checked the clearance, but didn't adjust anything.

Soviet

I fnd it strange that they did some complementary work and just so happened to find a way to nail you with a bunch of other labor. I would get a second opinion on the compression test given that the previous compression test looked good. Unless you've done some damage lately....

Billman250

Pulling the cover and measuring is 90% of the job, which makes "just checking and not adjusting" lazy or misleading.

Did they comment if any were out of spec, particular to the low comp cylinder? I can understand if they said "hey we found an EX valve on that cylinder at .003, almost guaranteed to warrant a head job due to burning.

Once again as I've said in another thread, buy a comp tester and arm yourself with 100% undisputable knowledge.

And the last tip, WRAP THE SPINNING LOWER PORTION of the comp test adapter hose with electrical tape, there's enough room for 20 wraps. This will ensure it does not get stuck in the spark plug hole due to spinning upon itself. Tape it up as one rigid hose and fitting.

More info here on comp tester woes:

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/114...ing-the-price/

Jah2000

Good tip. Mine did exactly just that - the hose was spinning independently and slipping from the lower threaded metal portion, resulting in the hose breaking off and me freaking out. I got the metal portion out though. But, I've been too lazy to do a re-check ever since. I should re-check it again soon.

Your numbers and symptoms (or, lack thereof - mine too runs perfectly, quietly and super strong) sounds very similar to my own (200, 230, 230, 240)

Car Analogy

What shop was this? Curious if its who I'm thinking of...

Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup

Cevin

I'll PM you the name, I would like to keep it off of the board for obvious reasons

jkelley

I don't think I've heard of even ONE example of someone that ACTUALLY needed to replace even a SINGLE valve spring on these motors... so that's red flag #1 for me.

The fact that their numbers are higher across the board isn't worrisome, gauge calibration probably. The fact that cyl #3 tested lower initially and now #2 is the suspect cylinder is the red flag here for me.

The fact that that they did a "complimentary" compression/leakdown is the 3rd red flag. It takes a decent amount of effort and isn't a hard-and-fast result, and has to do a lot with listening to air noise. Almost sounds like they were wanting to set you up.

$2k for a full valve job isn't unheard of, but there are cheaper/better alternatives. I paid a little more than HALF that for the best quality work you can find. PM Jordan (forgot his username) or Billman250.

Billman250

Go get that comp tester.

This is the best advice you will get, as the hard facts will be in your hands.