Benefits of Braided Brake Lines?
11-22-2003, 07:30 AM
#13
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Brake fluid seems to swell rubber over time.
The inside lining of the 30 yr old brake lines on my 911 swelled so much that they blocked the fluid from reaching the calipers. I had let the car sit for a few years & when I first drove it the pedal was so stiff that both feet could not move the brakes enough to stop the car. The MC & calipers were not stuck, the hoses were plugged solid with rubber.
So for long term perhaps some kind of teflon lining would be a good thing.
--Mike
The inside lining of the 30 yr old brake lines on my 911 swelled so much that they blocked the fluid from reaching the calipers. I had let the car sit for a few years & when I first drove it the pedal was so stiff that both feet could not move the brakes enough to stop the car. The MC & calipers were not stuck, the hoses were plugged solid with rubber.
So for long term perhaps some kind of teflon lining would be a good thing.
--Mike
11-22-2003, 08:49 AM
#14
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My two cents: the stock brake setup is fine for street use. For track use, you should upgrade fluid and pads. Then, if you're starting to work the brakes hard, you should run ducting to the front rotor vents to cool them. Then, if you want a slightly faster engagement, the stainless lines are worth getting.
Like ALL parts, over time, they'll need to be replaced, but I suspect that you'll wear out the rest of the car before you wear out the lines. I have them, like them, but definitely don't think they're necessary.
Again, my two cents is that the stock rotors and calipers are great -- they provide more than enough power to engage the ABS lap after lap, provided you keep them sufficiently cool (which calls for ducting). The rotors are also cheap to replace.
But, if you're looking for bling, the stock rotors just won't do it for you....
CB
_________________
C. Bender
2001 Silver/Black
Turbonetics TO4B 60:1 Ball Bearing Turbo; Tial 46mm Wastegate and 50mm Blowoff Valve; GReddy EGT and Boost Warning Gauges; Speedcraft Front Mounted Intercooler, Mandrel Bent Tubing, 3 Inch Down Pipe, and 3" Stainless Exhaust; A'PEXi N1 Mufflers; AEM EMS, Fuel Pressure Regulator, and Wideband O2 Sensor; RC Engineering 550 Injectors; Holly 250 Forced Induction Fuel Pump; Oil Filter Relocation Kit with Stainless Steel Lines; Clutchmaster Stage 3 Clutch; Toda Lightweight Flywheel; Mugen Radiator Cap, Thermostat, and Fan Switch; Upgraded Oil Bolts; Hecash Brake Ducting; Competch Stainless Steel Brake Lines; WorkMeister S2R 18" Wheels; Spoon X-Brace; Muz Shift Knob; Lucid's Front and Rear Speakers; 2002 Stereo Head Unit; Rick's Front Badge; JDM Clear Side Markers; Uber Cool Nurburgring Decal
Like ALL parts, over time, they'll need to be replaced, but I suspect that you'll wear out the rest of the car before you wear out the lines. I have them, like them, but definitely don't think they're necessary.
Again, my two cents is that the stock rotors and calipers are great -- they provide more than enough power to engage the ABS lap after lap, provided you keep them sufficiently cool (which calls for ducting). The rotors are also cheap to replace.
But, if you're looking for bling, the stock rotors just won't do it for you....
CB
_________________
C. Bender
2001 Silver/Black
Turbonetics TO4B 60:1 Ball Bearing Turbo; Tial 46mm Wastegate and 50mm Blowoff Valve; GReddy EGT and Boost Warning Gauges; Speedcraft Front Mounted Intercooler, Mandrel Bent Tubing, 3 Inch Down Pipe, and 3" Stainless Exhaust; A'PEXi N1 Mufflers; AEM EMS, Fuel Pressure Regulator, and Wideband O2 Sensor; RC Engineering 550 Injectors; Holly 250 Forced Induction Fuel Pump; Oil Filter Relocation Kit with Stainless Steel Lines; Clutchmaster Stage 3 Clutch; Toda Lightweight Flywheel; Mugen Radiator Cap, Thermostat, and Fan Switch; Upgraded Oil Bolts; Hecash Brake Ducting; Competch Stainless Steel Brake Lines; WorkMeister S2R 18" Wheels; Spoon X-Brace; Muz Shift Knob; Lucid's Front and Rear Speakers; 2002 Stereo Head Unit; Rick's Front Badge; JDM Clear Side Markers; Uber Cool Nurburgring Decal
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