DFWs2k

Pull the engine and do it all, if you are going to do any.

You match up a series of letters/numbers on block and crank to do those bearings. The chart is in the service manual.

If you take pistons out, you have to do new rings.

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SpitfireS

But what if you find the crank has damaged main journals?
Would you put new bearings on a damaged journal?

SLracer: did you check that chain sprocket journal bearing for wear?
Just to rule it out.
You're not seeing any of the bigger flakes do you?

SLracer

If I took it apart and found a damaged crank I would do it right and either replace it or have it finished if it was possible. I looked at all the bearings in the top end when I had that apart and didn't see anything significant. There are no bigger flakes in the oil that I have found, just this small glittery stuff. Cool, I think I saw those letters down there near the oil pan that you speak of. What about the plastigauge, how does that work?

Edit: On second thought no I haven't really looked at that sprocket bearing...how would I even go about removing that sprocket to check it?

SpitfireS

You have to remove the cams and the TCT.
Then undo the inbus visible at the front of the head and take it out- don't drop the spacer!
Then you remove the sprocket.

If its true that the rods go first in an oil starvation situation (and why wouldn't it be?) and your rods are fine you may not have had a true - from the pump up - oil starvation.
Maybe the oil leaking out of the valve train just caused damage up top?

Just thinking out loud.

SLracer

Yea thats what I was thinking at first as well, my real question currently is, are those rod end bearings beyond usable? The thing is even if I find the problem somewhere else 1, 2 and 3 rod end bearings looked noticably used...not sure if that is warrant for replacement though. Then if I was replacing them I would much rather it be in the car, living in Europe things like an engine hoist and engine stand are either going to cost me nearly $1000 to buy or I am going to need to find a really good connection to borrow which even that will require some sort of transportation in the form of a truck which isnt easy to come by.

Billman what is your opinion on the posted rod end bearings?

SLracer

Can I get anyones input on whether those rod end bearings are worn enough to replace and if that wear could cause the amount of glitter I have in my oil?

SLracer

Well for anyone interested in knowing:

I took apart the top end again today to check on the timing chain sprocket just to make sure I have looked at every bearing before I do anything too in depth. The timing chain sprocket bearing looks fine so I am suspecting the mains. I have the car all back together and once my oil pressure sensor and gauge show I will be installing these and driving the car to a place where I can pull the engine. On the way there I will be monitoring pressure to see if the pressure loss is still a problem or if it is fixed. Oh yes and while I had the oil pan out I did some trimming on the baffle since I realized a few of the drain spots from the block would simply drain on top of the baffle which on acceleration could lead to the oil never dropping below.

Here is what I am planning on ordering for this job:

Plastigauge
Main Bearings
Rod Bearings
Thrust Bearing
Rear Main Seal - do I need this?
Tube of Hondabond
New Clutch

Any other recommendations while I am down there. Being that I am in Germany I want to make sure to have everything here before I start since an extra part I forgot means another week of paying for storing the car at the garage which I pretty much have to do it at to have access to an engine hoist and stand. Any input is greatly appreciated, thanks!

zeroptzero

I think that is a good choice and you are going about it the right way. My bottom end started out with some glitter and higher metal wear then it eventually gave out later down the road. Doing what you are doing is good insurance and if nothing else peace of mind and possibly saving your block/crank.

I think if you order a lower seal kit you will get the lower seals and the small seal of the timing chain case. I would do the seals at the same time as they do leak after some time/age. Also a good idea to do the clutch while you are in there if yours is a bit old. You will need some super hi temp urea grease from Honda if you are doing the clutch, and I would put in a new throwout bearing and pilot bearing. Good luck with the job. ( I assume you have 4 hole oil jet bolts, if not consider them too).

SLracer

Cool thanks for the lower seal kit recommendation I will get that ordered. Yea 80k on the clock with stock clutch and 3 years of racing so figured clutch would be coming soon. I did install the oil bolts this winter as well but will definitely check the torque on those while they are easily accessible. I plan to leave the pistons in the cylinders given my compression numbers, figure it should be easy enough to do the bearings with them still in the block correct?

SpitfireS

Say what?

Are you now saying you saw glitter in your oil before your drive with your nephew?
You know.. the drive that - out of the blue - starved the engine of oil causing it to produce the oil licht at idle?
I hope not.



SLracer: don't you want to wash out the entire block to get rid of ALL the debris?
I would, who knows where this stuff all went.
Agreed: a LOT of work but some thing are done right or not at all IMO.