Battery Relocation
#12
check the alternator first to see if it's good or not (autozone or someplace will do it free)
If it's good, and your battery is good, check to make sure your battery cables are large enough to carry the amps needed to charge the battery now that it's in the rear location---for example, did you increase the battery cable size 2 sizes whan you ran the new wire to the back of the car? If not, that may be a big contributor to the problem.
Check some online charts on how much larger the cables need to be to carry the same amount of current with the battery in the back vs the front. (I think OEM is a size 2--to move the battery to the back with the same current capacity in the wires would require a 2/0 cable--a big incease in size)
here's one example---
http://alternatorparts.com/wire_size_chart.htm
If it's good, and your battery is good, check to make sure your battery cables are large enough to carry the amps needed to charge the battery now that it's in the rear location---for example, did you increase the battery cable size 2 sizes whan you ran the new wire to the back of the car? If not, that may be a big contributor to the problem.
Check some online charts on how much larger the cables need to be to carry the same amount of current with the battery in the back vs the front. (I think OEM is a size 2--to move the battery to the back with the same current capacity in the wires would require a 2/0 cable--a big incease in size)
here's one example---
http://alternatorparts.com/wire_size_chart.htm
#13
you could alos do a parasitic draw test per honda manual to see if your getting a parasitic draw
1 in your case latch trunk latch to trick system into thinking its closed (make sure the trunk light goes out)
2 make sure all doors are closed and lock vehicle using fob
3 wait 20 min
4 loosen the neg side of the battery ( do not let battery cable come off of battery or loose conection
5 using a dmm (digital multi meter) set to milli amps and take both leads of the dmm and place one on the neg cable and the other on the post and lift the cable off so the two leads remain connected but the battery cable is no longer in direct contact with the terminal (still should be a complete circute through the dmm) (if disconection happens go to step one and start over)
6 the reading should be 50mAmps or less (below 30 more than likely)
hope that helps pm if any more questions
it sounds more like a cable issue but it could be a draw that just happened to start at the same time
1 in your case latch trunk latch to trick system into thinking its closed (make sure the trunk light goes out)
2 make sure all doors are closed and lock vehicle using fob
3 wait 20 min
4 loosen the neg side of the battery ( do not let battery cable come off of battery or loose conection
5 using a dmm (digital multi meter) set to milli amps and take both leads of the dmm and place one on the neg cable and the other on the post and lift the cable off so the two leads remain connected but the battery cable is no longer in direct contact with the terminal (still should be a complete circute through the dmm) (if disconection happens go to step one and start over)
6 the reading should be 50mAmps or less (below 30 more than likely)
hope that helps pm if any more questions
it sounds more like a cable issue but it could be a draw that just happened to start at the same time
#14
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Ok guys, thanks for all the input. I'll run some tests within a few days and report back. If i take the car to auto zone to have the alt tested, don't it have to be out the car?
#20
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Yes, i was using a power wire from a Amp wiring kit. I suppose it was too small. I'm now using a thicker wire and haven't a single problem since. Been about 3 weeks now. Car starts up with no problem. Even wired in a relay for my fuel pump so my Aeromotive 340 stays active across the board. Thanks alot guys.