chris_barry

Xviper,

I think you misunderstood my post. With my technique you do not hit the threaded section of the balljoint itself. You actually hit the solid component that it goes through. The knock flexes the ring of steel around the taper shaft and it falls out.

Speedracer.

xviper

Gotcha! Thanks for setting me straight.

Billman250

Tip...Don't pull the axle in a manner that will let the boots stretch too far. The bearings inside the c-v units will easily become dislodged. I have a tool similar to Xv's and it works excellent, and fast. Remove: 6 flange bolts at the dif, break lower ball joint, main axle nut. the whole spindle will swing out of the way and you can pull the axle. I would also recommend removing the abs sensor, it allows the spindle to swing out farther.

Mr. Tom

Not to ask a stupid question, but will the spring still be under compression when i do this? i dont want to have stuff go flying when i am doing this.

alexf20c

If you jack up the frame (rather than the suspension), there will be no spring compression that could possibly harm you. Furthermore, it's an SLA/MacPherson design (or a double-wishbone setup) so the spring force is all contained within the strut assembly itself. The only time you need to worry about the spring force is when you're disassembling the MacPherson strut assembly.

alexf20c

Also, whenever reinstalling suspension bushings, make sure to first set the vehicle weight on the tires and load-carrying ball joints (simply lower it off of any jackstands or floorjacks) before torqueing the nuts/bolts.

For example, if you torque the control arm bushings while the suspension is sagged, when you lower the vehicle, the bushing will bind a little. This not only limits how much suspension travel the bushing can accommodate, but it can affect how the car drives (one side will have stiffer suspension than the other, because the binded bushing will add to the spring rate of the strut).

Also, in something like a rubber bonded socket or similar bushing (used in steering components), it can create a pull to one side; not from a misadjusted alignment angle, but from the bushing naturally wanting to flex back when it hasn't been torqued in the straightahead position.

This may not apply to what you're doing, kM, but it's good to keep in mind whenever you're doing steering/suspension work.

Nobody

I removed my first ball joint recently--here's the write up (it's in FAQs, too, btw).

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...&#entry4241759

Mr. Tom

Ok, i got as far as the spindle nut, i opened up the little locking deal, and couldnt do anything. it says it should be at 181ft/lbs, but it seems to be much tighter than that. using a 1/2" drive craftsman ratchet with a 36mm socket, i stood on the end of the ratchet, and jumped up and down, the only thing that happend is the ebrake slipped a little, then the wrench ended up breaking. so using my unporfesional math, i was putting 250 pounds of pressure on a wrench approx 1' long. and it didnt budge. not even a little.


so i guess the next step is an impact wrench, if that doesnt work then im screwed, lol.

mikdys

I have found this to work on other cars in the past (but I have bought a threaded ball joint breaker since!). I found it best to use two hammers, one either side of the arm that the ball joint fits into, and synchronise a good hard hit from both. If this doesn't make the joint let go you are going to need a threaded puller (I wouldn't recommend the "fork" unless you are going to repalce the balljoint itself).

To be absolutely clear here, I don't mean hit the end of the thread, but the part that the ball joint's taper fits into either side of the taper. Like Speedracer says, the resultant shock can (not always IME) cause the taper to let go. Using two hammers will not only cause more shock but won't (if you are skillful) put any unbalanced loading on the part you are hitting.

Billman250

I've found a 3/4" drive breaker bar with an extension pipe is USUALLY the only way to break the nut loose on the axle. You're likely to break most 1/2" drive stuff.