Bad KNOCK SENSOR but CAR DIES...WHY!?!
#1
Bad KNOCK SENSOR but CAR DIES...WHY!?!
I have ordered the knock sensor. In the meanwhile, I continue to drive the car. The car sometimes dies without warning or right after EPS comes on too and I lose power steering, and the car dies. At this point, no electrical components seem to work or barely work, e.g. very dim dash. Even the windows dont go up. When i went to restart the car, the engine would turn a couple times like there was a bad battery (which i checked). This time, I only disconnected the positive terminal of the battery, straightened some wiring near the intake manifold. And the car STARTED FINE again. Confused, I drove back home. Besides battery removal and some line tinkering, there is the ~10 min that the car was able to cool down. So that may be a factor.
I know the knock sensor is bad but whats up with all this electrical problems?
update:
I am starting to think it can only be the alternator. For example, the car was running normally, then STARTED DYING but remained barely alive, with no electronics
working, but the car was BARELY running at extremely low rpms. THAT made me think alternator. I checked it and the green wiring plug in the back is secure. The cable is bolted on tight. The only thing I havent checked is the fuse. (I connected the battery AFTER installing the alternator after a clutch change).
Another thought was that the ignition switch was bad.
But I dont know much about how that works.
Thanks for all the help guys!!
I know the knock sensor is bad but whats up with all this electrical problems?
update:
I am starting to think it can only be the alternator. For example, the car was running normally, then STARTED DYING but remained barely alive, with no electronics
working, but the car was BARELY running at extremely low rpms. THAT made me think alternator. I checked it and the green wiring plug in the back is secure. The cable is bolted on tight. The only thing I havent checked is the fuse. (I connected the battery AFTER installing the alternator after a clutch change).
Another thought was that the ignition switch was bad.
But I dont know much about how that works.
Thanks for all the help guys!!
#2
you can. I drove without one for about one month without problems. The engine run fine, but it had no timing advance, so it had reduced power. As a funny note, since the timing was not advancing, I just put 87 in the car while I waited for the sensor and it made no difference until then, hehe.
#4
Originally Posted by JUSTINTHECOASTIE,Nov 24 2010, 06:06 PM
You'll be fine
#6
Originally Posted by HondamakesS2000s,Nov 24 2010, 07:40 PM
So I dont really need to get it fixed? or take my time fixing it? i.e. ordering parts online.
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#9
Originally Posted by cdelena,Nov 25 2010, 09:18 AM
Many of use ECU's that ignore the knock sensor and find it is not a problem.
#10
Originally Posted by JUSTINTHECOASTIE,Nov 25 2010, 03:43 PM
So why is it there? Its there for a reason, fix it when you can
As long adequate fuel is used, temps kept in the normal range, and lugging is avoided, there should be no detonation.