Allday

Hi everyone I am having problems trying to diagnose why my heater is cold and over heating (Ap1). I replaced thermostat, bleed coolant system multiple times. It started out with heaters blowing cold air on idle and random over heat so I replaced thermostat then 2-3 days later its gotten to were heater doesn't get warm at all and over heats not long after reaching the running temp of 3bars. I opened radiator cap and rev the car up a few times watching the fluid in radiator and it does not move at all so I capped it back off and let it run for few and squeezed the radiator hose and released it and did not feel any serge of coolant in hose and also noticed the hose was sorta spungy like there was no pressure on it. Bottom radiator hose is staying cold also. Any one got a idea? I use billmans guide to bleed because it didn't fail me or any others iv seen use it in person. Thanks!

-Daniel

Billman250

I can almost guarantee its not the pump.

If the heat is cold, you have air plain and simple. Dont drive it until the heat is red hot.

If you can't get hot heat then you are doing something wrong, or you have a bad hg.

Allday

Only reason I was thinking water pump is because there is no sign of circulation at all. It had hot heat for about a day after I replaced the thermostat but then got back the way it was no heat at idle and little heat on driving steady 3k rpm or more.
Thanks for quick response!

Allday

I found a leak just now on bottom radiator hose cant see where its coming from on it but I tighten both clamps and gonna start and watch it again. could this be the problem ?

Allday

Let it run for 30 or little more minutes bleeding in between no over heat and heaters are hot as can be, But the Eps light just came on and no ps. Weird I know but is that even possible lol.

zeroptzero

EPS light is normal when the engine revs for a long time and the car doesn't move. The power steering will come back after you drive it for a few minutes. You will have lots of air in the system, you don't need to see rad fluid moving, but the level will move up and down as air bubbles are released and the thermostat opens. Just keep bleeding until you get consistent heat and follow Billman's recommended procedure.

Billman250

Tightened clamps how?

If they are screw clamps they are garbage and will leak again after they destroy the end of the hose.

Allday

Yeah there trash screw clamps what do you recommend clamps I should go buy? Thanks and I have looked all over for Bills bleed write up and cant seem to find it now if anyone can point it to me please I would really be thankful for it . I got it to idle with heat so hot I was sweating and its 20 degree here lol

Allday

Also thanks JFUSION that was the problem I guess were I was holding steady 2500 - 3k rpm when bleeding tripped it and just needed the vss to read once I drove it it went right off.

jkelley

I think the recommended hose clamp for coolant flow and vacuum lines are PROPERLY sized pinch clamps.
(The same type that came on the car from the factory)