Bad alternator?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Bad alternator?
I did some searching and there are quite a few posts on the topic but just wanted to make sure.
I just swapped out clutches and reinstalled everything. During the install I removed the AC unit and changed belt sizes to the 45.5 inch belt. It seems a little tight but that shouldn't cause an alternator failure?? My battery is relocated but I checked all of the wires and they are in good shape. The car will start and run but it runs off of a voltage of 10.9-11.2 and it drops the longer the car is running "because the alternator isn't working" so I know the terminals are connected.
Also I checked the terminal on the alternator with my voltometer and it is reading the same while the car is running as it does when its not running this is what points me to an alternator failure.
My questions are where are the fuses located. I know one is the 15amp under the hood but what one in the cabin?? Is there any other test I should perform before purchasing a new one?? I did try grounding the alternator but it is grounded just fine.
Thanks for any input.
I just swapped out clutches and reinstalled everything. During the install I removed the AC unit and changed belt sizes to the 45.5 inch belt. It seems a little tight but that shouldn't cause an alternator failure?? My battery is relocated but I checked all of the wires and they are in good shape. The car will start and run but it runs off of a voltage of 10.9-11.2 and it drops the longer the car is running "because the alternator isn't working" so I know the terminals are connected.
Also I checked the terminal on the alternator with my voltometer and it is reading the same while the car is running as it does when its not running this is what points me to an alternator failure.
My questions are where are the fuses located. I know one is the 15amp under the hood but what one in the cabin?? Is there any other test I should perform before purchasing a new one?? I did try grounding the alternator but it is grounded just fine.
Thanks for any input.
#2
first check your battery connections. (really check)
check fuse 6 (under dash) 15amp
make sure the 4 pin connector to your alternator is in.
when your car starts is the indicator battery light on in the dash?
LMK and I'll guide you through the rest
p.s.
alternators do fail because of overtight belts.
though usually it'll take a little while.
re-check your size and routing
Also, you grounded the alternator? or do you mean you
performed a full field test? If so you should get 15 plus
volts with 75 amps or more and if you did then
you might just need a voltage regulator.
check fuse 6 (under dash) 15amp
make sure the 4 pin connector to your alternator is in.
when your car starts is the indicator battery light on in the dash?
LMK and I'll guide you through the rest
p.s.
alternators do fail because of overtight belts.
though usually it'll take a little while.
re-check your size and routing
Also, you grounded the alternator? or do you mean you
performed a full field test? If so you should get 15 plus
volts with 75 amps or more and if you did then
you might just need a voltage regulator.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Seem to be shorting out the 15 amp under the dash. I had to replace it with a 20 amp and it blew aswell. How would I go about tracking down that short?
#4
don't use higher rated amperage fuses. you might cook a wire.
is your battery light on when the car starts or does it go away?
BTW, why is your battery relocated? And where is it now?
the other side of fuse 6 goes to the 4 pin connector on your alternator.
disconnect the battery, disconnect the 4 pin connecor test the black and yellow wire for continuity with ground. it is pin 1 on the wire side of the 4 pin connector.
lmk what you find.
is your battery light on when the car starts or does it go away?
BTW, why is your battery relocated? And where is it now?
the other side of fuse 6 goes to the 4 pin connector on your alternator.
disconnect the battery, disconnect the 4 pin connecor test the black and yellow wire for continuity with ground. it is pin 1 on the wire side of the 4 pin connector.
lmk what you find.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Did some research. Came up with this post from awhile back.
"The most common cause for the fuse to blow is from the wiring that goes to the air pump control solenoid gets caught int he drive belt after a CAI is installed.
The ACG fuse supplied power to:
EVAP CVS
EVAP bypass
EVAP purge
Air pump control solenoid
ELD
Cruise control
Both 02 sensors
Alternator
Gauge cluster, and the cruise main switch"
Battery is relocated because my car is turbo. CEL doesn't come on because I am running an AEM EMS.
I removed the EVAP and both o2 sensors and the air pump is gone I have cut some of those wires so I will have to go and check if one may be shorting out.
I did find that it would short out with the key on engine off. Other then that I have no ideas.
"The most common cause for the fuse to blow is from the wiring that goes to the air pump control solenoid gets caught int he drive belt after a CAI is installed.
The ACG fuse supplied power to:
EVAP CVS
EVAP bypass
EVAP purge
Air pump control solenoid
ELD
Cruise control
Both 02 sensors
Alternator
Gauge cluster, and the cruise main switch"
Battery is relocated because my car is turbo. CEL doesn't come on because I am running an AEM EMS.
I removed the EVAP and both o2 sensors and the air pump is gone I have cut some of those wires so I will have to go and check if one may be shorting out.
I did find that it would short out with the key on engine off. Other then that I have no ideas.
#6
hmmm sorry I had'nt checked in a bit.
i'm a little confused you mean with the key in the on position engine off.
or do you mean key on off engine off.
did you check the black and yellow for short to ground? depnding on above i suppose.
i'm a little confused you mean with the key in the on position engine off.
or do you mean key on off engine off.
did you check the black and yellow for short to ground? depnding on above i suppose.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
The black and yellow coming out of the underhood fuse box seems to be to ground? I hooked up the voltometer and it is. Its in the fuse box so I am assuming it shouldn't be grounded. What is the black yellow wire there to?
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#8
I saw your other posts. Like I said before disconnect the 4 pin connector from your alternator. disconnect battery. check continuity to ground. if you find that you have ground than you need to trace the wire back to find the short.
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
yes it is grounded out somewhere. I just can't get to the entire harness. I don't know where the wire goes from the alternator?? Does it go to the fuse box under hood? I am getting readings of shorts in the black/yellow wires located there aswell.
#10
Former Moderator
Don't put any larger fuse than a 15A fuse in the circuit. There is a reason Honda picked 15A, and nothing higher.
Check all the wiring that used to go to the air pump control solenoid. That usually gets caught in the drive belt and blows the fuse.
Otherwise start unplugging every sensor and control unit 1 at a time until the fuse stops blowing. If it still blows the fuse the short is in the harness and not a component.
Check all the wiring that used to go to the air pump control solenoid. That usually gets caught in the drive belt and blows the fuse.
Otherwise start unplugging every sensor and control unit 1 at a time until the fuse stops blowing. If it still blows the fuse the short is in the harness and not a component.