Hero

i've got the clicking noise in the rear.

at first i was pretty confident it was the axle nut. bought a new one, but haven't replaced it yet.

while the car was on jacks this weekend i noticed the rear passenger side ( where the noise is ) has some play which leads me to believe it may be a bad bearing now also

what's the best way to diagnose bad axle nut vs. bad bearing? would i get similar movement out of the rear wheel if the axle nut was bad/loose? or is that pretty much an indicator of bad bearing?

Stratocaster

Replace the bearing and hub. When the bearing gets that way, it damages the hub.

toniotran

if its an axle nut you'll hear a single click/pop sound when reversing or when taking off from a complete stop...and to fix that you'll need to replace the axle nut and torque it 220 ft/lb. and stake it. if its a wheel bearing you'll hear a screeching/whining sound that can usually be heard during low speeds and is consistent with speed...you can also check for this by jacking up the car and checking to see if there's any play in the wheel (lug nuts are on tight and the wheel wobbles)...to fix this you'll need to replace the wheel bearing and press it back into the hub, but before you do check to make sure that the hub isn't warped.

Hero

there's no whine or anything that increases with speed. there is a clicking/creaking when going forward or backward from a stop. and there is some slight play in the wheel on the same side as the noise.

looks like it's a bit of both as stratocaster pointed out. bah!

Elistan

I've dealt with this situation twice, on two different cars (MY00 and MY03.) Each time, the only solution was to replace the wheel bearing. Replacing and tightening the axle nut seems to be only a temporary fix to the symptom (the clicking.) The screeching noise isn't required to indicate a bearing going bad. It'll just take a while longer to get to that point.

If the guy operating the press is good enough, your hub won't get damaged (assuming it hasn't already been damaged by the bearing,) but often the way things go, you'll need a new one of those as well.

bjjs2k

Yup, same issue with mine. One thing i would recommend is to take extra precaution when doing the final step in pressing the hub into the bearing. It is best to push the entire assembly (bearing and knuckle) down to the hub, instead of the hub down to the assembly.

If doing hte latter, just gotta make sure that the middle race of the bearing (the part that is in contact with the hub) is properly supported ie you have something pressed against the inner race while pushing down the hub from the other side.


if done incorrectly, you will be able to tell by looking at the bearing and see that the inner race is portruding outward slightly (probably the best way to tell is to take a pic of the bearing before and after the install).
So make sure to check for that after they are done.

When i did this, I called around a few places here as to how much it would cost to get it pressed out and pressed in, and they were all in the neighborhood of 90-100 per knuckle!! Needless to say i ended up buying a cheap press for $130 and now do it on my own. Don't know your location but if u live in vegas i can help you out. good luck.

Hero

where's the best place to buy these parts?

kragen / autozone stuff good enough for these or best to stick with oem?

bjjs2k

hondapartschea.com or hondapartsnow.com -- I didn't see to much price difference between the non-oem ones and oem, except for the bearings, there are brands out there that were like only 30 i believe, i opted for the oem one instead.

FISH22

When I had to replace the hub/bearing on my old AP1, I purchased the parts through Majestic Honda(Hondaautomotiveparts.com). Price wasn't too bad for OEM parts. I think it came out to just over $100, for both the bearing and hub.

Hero

exactly which parts would i need from the diagram: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/j...gry5=REAR+BRAKE

#2? and which bearing? #36?