Axle Nut 220 or 240
01-01-2012, 12:49 AM
#31
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[attachment=13977:IMG_0906.jpg]
hmm, does this look like 220 lbs (2 o clock)... I just got it back from the shop, what you guys think? I'm not sure what to reference for the 2 o clock... sorry if I seem slow!
hmm, does this look like 220 lbs (2 o clock)... I just got it back from the shop, what you guys think? I'm not sure what to reference for the 2 o clock... sorry if I seem slow!
01-01-2012, 05:48 AM
#33
Moderator
tlee1234...the slot in the AXLE is 12 oclock.
Now, look for the OLD stake mark, where the nut used to be bent. It has to get un-bent to do the work. The old Unbent part (you'll see it as a small dent in the nut) should move two clock positions from the SLOT in the AXLE. I looked at you pic, its not clear so i cant see the old stake mark.
Now, look for the OLD stake mark, where the nut used to be bent. It has to get un-bent to do the work. The old Unbent part (you'll see it as a small dent in the nut) should move two clock positions from the SLOT in the AXLE. I looked at you pic, its not clear so i cant see the old stake mark.
01-01-2012, 05:51 AM
#34
Moderator
It looks like they didnt do anything. All they did was set the torque wrench to 220 and check the nut. THIS WILL NOT WORK! Even if that nut is at 170, and you set the wrench to 220, it wont move because of the traction of the NUT FACE (no grease)
The nut MUST be removed or you are wasting your time.
As far as how often, once the nut is set right its good for life. It will not come loose. They never do. Its lack of torque from thew factory thats the problem.
The nut MUST be removed or you are wasting your time.
As far as how often, once the nut is set right its good for life. It will not come loose. They never do. Its lack of torque from thew factory thats the problem.
01-01-2012, 04:43 PM
#35
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Hello,
1)
So I tried this today, and basically
could not take the nut off. I wanted to take it off
so I could grease it, but the nut would not come off easily.
So I turned it back to tighten it back on. I think I did the
12 o clock to 2 o clock correctly. Here are the pictures.
driver side
[attachment=13992:driver rear.jpg]
passenger side (for passenger side, I didn't even attempt to take off the nut, but I just went from 12 o clock to 2 o clock, is this ok?)
(the nut seemed pretty loose at 12 o clock, 2 o clock felt nice and tight)
[attachment=13994
assenger rear.jpg]
2)
Is there any disadvantage doing the 2 o clock without any grease?
3)
The passenger side nut looks like it's deeper on the threads than driver side nut, but both are at 2 o clock and torqued to my max strength.
Is there something I did wrong?
driver side nut
[attachment=13993:driver rear top.jpg]
passenger side nut
[attachment=13995assenger rear top.jpg]
I just drove it, and everything seems good.
1)
So I tried this today, and basically
could not take the nut off. I wanted to take it off
so I could grease it, but the nut would not come off easily.
So I turned it back to tighten it back on. I think I did the
12 o clock to 2 o clock correctly. Here are the pictures.
driver side
[attachment=13992:driver rear.jpg]
passenger side (for passenger side, I didn't even attempt to take off the nut, but I just went from 12 o clock to 2 o clock, is this ok?)
(the nut seemed pretty loose at 12 o clock, 2 o clock felt nice and tight)
[attachment=13994
assenger rear.jpg]2)
Is there any disadvantage doing the 2 o clock without any grease?
3)
The passenger side nut looks like it's deeper on the threads than driver side nut, but both are at 2 o clock and torqued to my max strength.
Is there something I did wrong?
driver side nut
[attachment=13993:driver rear top.jpg]
passenger side nut
[attachment=13995
assenger rear top.jpg]I just drove it, and everything seems good.
01-01-2012, 06:56 PM
#36
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tlee 1234...Sorry but I think you did it completely wrong. If you read what Billman keep saying, which I'm sure you did, you have to grease the flat face of the axle nut. He also explained the reason why. One thing I do not understand is why could you not completely remove the axle nut. Something must be catching on the axle thread or you have crossed thread issue that prevents the nut to turn.
Check the thread of the axle nut to make sure they are not crossed thread already and make sure the axle nut stake is completely out of the threads way.
Check the thread of the axle nut to make sure they are not crossed thread already and make sure the axle nut stake is completely out of the threads way.
01-01-2012, 10:29 PM
#37
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quoted from billman250
Posted 06 September 2011 - 04:33 PM
" Because the large surface area of the nut, if not greased, will cause high friction and the correct torque will not be reached. The torque wrench will click off early based on friction...not a properly pulled torque.
DO NOT grease the threads. "
So I read this, and it seems that the grease is mainly for the torque wrench to get the full 220 without friction, so on my car
I took the reference of the "2 o clock" without grease and I torqued it w/ just a breaker bar, and used the "2 o clock" reference. Does this
work billman, or do you still reccomend for me to undo the nuts, and grease? and do I have to re stake, I haven't done it yet, just in case
I have to do this over! (that means I'll have two spots on my nut now from the re staking right? one from original and now in the 2 o clock?)
Posted 06 September 2011 - 04:33 PM
" Because the large surface area of the nut, if not greased, will cause high friction and the correct torque will not be reached. The torque wrench will click off early based on friction...not a properly pulled torque.
DO NOT grease the threads. "
So I read this, and it seems that the grease is mainly for the torque wrench to get the full 220 without friction, so on my car
I took the reference of the "2 o clock" without grease and I torqued it w/ just a breaker bar, and used the "2 o clock" reference. Does this
work billman, or do you still reccomend for me to undo the nuts, and grease? and do I have to re stake, I haven't done it yet, just in case
I have to do this over! (that means I'll have two spots on my nut now from the re staking right? one from original and now in the 2 o clock?)
01-02-2012, 05:16 AM
#38
Moderator
It APPEARS you got the nut tightened properly.
However...the "clock position" part of this job is only for a factory nut.
Something tells me if you grease the face, you'll gain on the nut even further. How long is your wrench from center of the socket to the end of the handle?
My wrench is 39", or a little over 3 feet. It's also 3/4" drive. So you can imagine I get the nut quite tight. With a wrench this size and drive, you have full control and feel for the nut.
However...the "clock position" part of this job is only for a factory nut.
Something tells me if you grease the face, you'll gain on the nut even further. How long is your wrench from center of the socket to the end of the handle?
My wrench is 39", or a little over 3 feet. It's also 3/4" drive. So you can imagine I get the nut quite tight. With a wrench this size and drive, you have full control and feel for the nut.
01-02-2012, 05:21 AM
#39
Moderator
I see what you mean about the depth, that may or may not be an issue.
The only way to know for sure is to remove the nut, and make sure the axle is free to move in and out. If the axle is lightly sticking this is ok. But if its stuck in the spline, tightening the nut may not overcome this and the job will be pointless.
Think of the AXLE as a bearing clamp. You put the axle in the bearing and hub and tighten it. If the spline is stuck, you wont clamp down on the bearings. The axle clamps the bearing races together on the hub.
Axles have two jobs. One of course is to drive the wheels. The other is they are holding the bearings and hub together, tight as one.
If this car was all-wheel drive and you took the rear axles out and went for a drive, the car would be ok in a straight line for a minute or so. Hit a bump, the rear races will move on the hub and you'll have wheel bearing play. Take a turn, the hub will pull out of the bearing and the wheel will come off the car. After the rotor breaks through the caliper of course
The only way to know for sure is to remove the nut, and make sure the axle is free to move in and out. If the axle is lightly sticking this is ok. But if its stuck in the spline, tightening the nut may not overcome this and the job will be pointless.
Think of the AXLE as a bearing clamp. You put the axle in the bearing and hub and tighten it. If the spline is stuck, you wont clamp down on the bearings. The axle clamps the bearing races together on the hub.
Axles have two jobs. One of course is to drive the wheels. The other is they are holding the bearings and hub together, tight as one.
If this car was all-wheel drive and you took the rear axles out and went for a drive, the car would be ok in a straight line for a minute or so. Hit a bump, the rear races will move on the hub and you'll have wheel bearing play. Take a turn, the hub will pull out of the bearing and the wheel will come off the car. After the rotor breaks through the caliper of course
01-02-2012, 08:18 AM
#40
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It APPEARS you got the nut tightened properly.
However...the "clock position" part of this job is only for a factory nut.
Something tells me if you grease the face, you'll gain on the nut even further. How long is your wrench from center of the socket to the end of the handle?
My wrench is 39", or a little over 3 feet. It's also 3/4" drive. So you can imagine I get the nut quite tight. With a wrench this size and drive, you have full control and feel for the nut.
However...the "clock position" part of this job is only for a factory nut.
Something tells me if you grease the face, you'll gain on the nut even further. How long is your wrench from center of the socket to the end of the handle?
My wrench is 39", or a little over 3 feet. It's also 3/4" drive. So you can imagine I get the nut quite tight. With a wrench this size and drive, you have full control and feel for the nut.
Hi Billman,
My wrench is around the same size as your wrench, with 3/4" drive also. I got the nut super tight. On the side that was never touched, when I unstaked it, and I tightened it, I could see that the factory setting was pretty loose. Then when I tightened it, its did move the 12 - 2 o clock you were talking about perfectly.
I feel like I may have messed up the treads on my driver rear side though... I feel like it should go in another full revolution... maybe an impact gun would take the nut off easily?