Axle Nut 220 or 240
09-16-2010, 05:42 AM
#21
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Just did this yesterday after reading this thread and I wanted to say thanks for the advice. No more click!
Unfortunately I still have vibration from the rear when I apply power. I was thinking I'd have to swap the CV cups but then I noticed that the right rear rim is missing its counter-weights (unless it didn't need any... which I've never seen before). I'm going to get it re-balanced ASAP. I bet I'll still need to do the swap, but might as well clear out one variable.
Anyway, thanks again!
Unfortunately I still have vibration from the rear when I apply power. I was thinking I'd have to swap the CV cups but then I noticed that the right rear rim is missing its counter-weights (unless it didn't need any... which I've never seen before). I'm going to get it re-balanced ASAP. I bet I'll still need to do the swap, but might as well clear out one variable.
Anyway, thanks again!
12-24-2011, 02:46 PM
#22
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Thanks everybody. It does indeed go from the 12 o'clock to 2 o'clock position. Probaby no need to check torque, just follow that. Cleaning the face of the joint can only help as well. I screwed up the nuts myself on the second try, I opened the "stake" point with a punch and that probably cracked the edge of the nut. I got the new nuts yesterday, at about 17 dollars each, and put them on to the new recommended torque. That should do it. This site is a very useful tool indeed. Once again, thank you.
Most sincerely,
Joe
Most sincerely,
Joe
Hello,
I still don't understand what 12 o clock to 2 o clock means, does this mean when I fully tighten the nut I got 2 o clock more? Thanks!
12-24-2011, 03:08 PM
#23
Originally Posted by MrWant' timestamp='1281612728' post='19287342
Thanks everybody. It does indeed go from the 12 o'clock to 2 o'clock position. Probaby no need to check torque, just follow that. Cleaning the face of the joint can only help as well. I screwed up the nuts myself on the second try, I opened the "stake" point with a punch and that probably cracked the edge of the nut. I got the new nuts yesterday, at about 17 dollars each, and put them on to the new recommended torque. That should do it. This site is a very useful tool indeed. Once again, thank you.
Most sincerely,
Joe
Most sincerely,
Joe
Hello,
I still don't understand what 12 o clock to 2 o clock means, does this mean when I fully tighten the nut I got 2 o clock more? Thanks!
12-24-2011, 07:14 PM
#24
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So, this whole axle nut issue is still a problem on AP2s? I thought the revised torque spec was released before the AP2 hit the dealerships.
My rear bearing needs to be replaced, but I never thought the nut might be the culprit.
My rear bearing needs to be replaced, but I never thought the nut might be the culprit.
12-25-2011, 06:55 AM
#25
When I did mine I kinda had the feeling that going much above 220 wasn't going to move the nut any further. Going from the factory setting to 220 moved the nut about 2 hours as described, but then ratcheting up the torque wrench above 220 didn't seem to move the nut any further, it must have been fully tightened at that point ?
12-27-2011, 09:10 PM
#29
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Is this (220 lbs / 2 o clock) on all 4 wheels or just the rear wheel?
Also, how often do you think we should check the nut to re torque? (I guess just check whenever the wheels off)
Thanks!
12-27-2011, 11:53 PM
#30
Originally Posted by Billman250' timestamp='1324840555' post='21262943
All s2ks should have this procedure done now. Before trouble starts. 2000-2009. I've check all years they all go to 2 oclock.
Is this (220 lbs / 2 o clock) on all 4 wheels or just the rear wheel?
Also, how often do you think we should check the nut to re torque? (I guess just check whenever the wheels off)
Thanks!
Also I torqued mine to 240 instead of 220 or 230.