S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

(axle bucket) Inner CV joint swap DIY with pics

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Old 05-13-2006, 08:09 AM
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Not yet for me but it first occurred at about 35k miles and I only have 54k on it now. Time will tell...
Old 11-02-2006, 05:26 PM
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Well, I had the shudders and the pitting that w1ngman's photos show. Swapped and repacked. Drove the car today and still have the shudders. As an added bonus, I now have a "clunk" from the rear when shifting gears.

Respectfully asking for wild guesses.
Old 11-02-2006, 06:48 PM
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New inner CV's are the next step. Swapping sides is the no $$ fix. As far as the clunk goes did you get the axle nuts re-torqued and staked?

A wise man once said,

"It's only money, you'll make more "
Old 11-02-2006, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Slows2k,Nov 2 2006, 10:48 PM
New inner CV's are the next step. Swapping sides is the no $$ fix. As far as the clunk goes did you get the axle nuts re-torqued and staked?

A wise man once said,

"It's only money, you'll make more "


Had to guess on the axle nut specs. I had just tightened them to 220 ft.lbs. last week to see if that might be simple enough to fix the problem- no go. When placing them back on, I used the previous indentation to get an approximate tightness. The auto hobby shop on base has a 250 torque wrench; I do not.

Having installed track pads just before the track(in a hurry no less), I only yesterday discovered that I had tracked with the pass. rear pad not correctly seated on the piston. Any chance this might have contributed to my current woes? Surely the pitting, as bad as it was/is, was present before the track day. It was only on the last session that the shuddering manifested itself grossly. It was also the first time out with group #2 which yielded more laps at speed(I think my average lap was almost 9 seconds faster than previous #1 sessions).

I used almost an entire 16 oz can of syn grease to pack the cups and boots. Can that be too much grease?
Old 11-03-2006, 04:02 AM
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Too much grease and it will leak past the boot bands.

The brake pad not being in the piston notch will wear out a pad quickly, but shouldn't cause your axle issue.
Old 11-12-2006, 04:33 PM
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...
Old 11-13-2006, 04:13 AM
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A soft face dead blow hammer can remove the outer CV's. It takes some finesse to get them back on the shaft though. The lockring must be compressed while pushing in on the CV joint, then a hammer used to push the CV over the lock ring. If you do it wrong you'll mangle the ring.

BTW, I've found 1 MY04 with a vibration under acceleration, with no visible pitting of the inner CV's. New inner CV's fixed the vibration.
Old 11-13-2006, 08:11 AM
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Is there any downside to swaping the joints as opposed to getting another entire assembly? They're just remanufactured anyway, so they do the same thing i'm going to do.

Please don't get me started on the parts store. It's an internet company, they have a lot of stuff, but customer service lags. It'll be 4 weeks before i get a refund. And they don't do exchanges.

The CV-joints are the same on both sides right? In other words, it doesnt matter if i'm putting the cv joints from the passenger assembly on the driver side does it?
Old 11-13-2006, 09:47 AM
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i followed the picto DIY and did this swap on friday and i have say, wow. my cars pulls smoother that it ever did stock. the odd thing is that the grease in each joint was about the same color, and the other walls of the joints didnt have THAT much pitting on them. they looked better than the ones in the DIY.

two for a great write up!
Old 01-15-2007, 08:24 AM
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I put in the spacers today. thanks to all for the great writeup....I had a little trouble finding a ball joint separator that would work. Here's what I borrowed from Advance Auto eventually.



It worked great.


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