(axle bucket) Inner CV joint swap DIY with pics
#131
Do a axle hub nut search.
From one:
The clunk is probably the classic "axle nut needs tightening" syndrome I had it). Here are Honda's words on the subject:
Axle Pops or Creaks:
�00�02 S2000
On �00�02 S2000s, if your customer complains of
hearing a single pop or creak from the rear of the
vehicle when changing direction from forward to
backward and vice versa, the problem may be
axle (driveshaft) movement in the rear hub. To
eliminate the noise, replace the spindle nut on the
affected axle. Apply grease to the surface of the
new spindle nut where it contacts the hub. Torque
the new nut to 298 N�m (220 lb-ft), and stake the
nut.
And:
The clunk/click/pop can be an indication of a serious problem, or a very simple issue that most stooks experience. The simple issue, as mentioned, is a click when first backing or starting out that comes from the rear wheels. The axle hub nut needs torquing to 220 ft-lb even though the manual says 180 ft-lb. If not done in 6-8 weeks, the click can turn into a squeal indicating that your hub bearings are ruined.
Good Luck
From one:
The clunk is probably the classic "axle nut needs tightening" syndrome I had it). Here are Honda's words on the subject:
Axle Pops or Creaks:
�00�02 S2000
On �00�02 S2000s, if your customer complains of
hearing a single pop or creak from the rear of the
vehicle when changing direction from forward to
backward and vice versa, the problem may be
axle (driveshaft) movement in the rear hub. To
eliminate the noise, replace the spindle nut on the
affected axle. Apply grease to the surface of the
new spindle nut where it contacts the hub. Torque
the new nut to 298 N�m (220 lb-ft), and stake the
nut.
And:
The clunk/click/pop can be an indication of a serious problem, or a very simple issue that most stooks experience. The simple issue, as mentioned, is a click when first backing or starting out that comes from the rear wheels. The axle hub nut needs torquing to 220 ft-lb even though the manual says 180 ft-lb. If not done in 6-8 weeks, the click can turn into a squeal indicating that your hub bearings are ruined.
Good Luck
#132
Originally Posted by PWRMKR,Oct 17 2010, 11:33 PM
Do a axle hub nut search.
From one:
The clunk is probably the classic "axle nut needs tightening" syndrome I had it). Here are Honda's words on the subject:
Axle Pops or Creaks:
�00�02 S2000
On �00�02 S2000s, if your customer complains of
hearing a single pop or creak from the rear of the
vehicle when changing direction from forward to
backward and vice versa, the problem may be
axle (driveshaft) movement in the rear hub. To
eliminate the noise, replace the spindle nut on the
affected axle. Apply grease to the surface of the
new spindle nut where it contacts the hub. Torque
the new nut to 298 N�m (220 lb-ft), and stake the
nut.
And:
The clunk/click/pop can be an indication of a serious problem, or a very simple issue that most stooks experience. The simple issue, as mentioned, is a click when first backing or starting out that comes from the rear wheels. The axle hub nut needs torquing to 220 ft-lb even though the manual says 180 ft-lb. If not done in 6-8 weeks, the click can turn into a squeal indicating that your hub bearings are ruined.
Good Luck
From one:
The clunk is probably the classic "axle nut needs tightening" syndrome I had it). Here are Honda's words on the subject:
Axle Pops or Creaks:
�00�02 S2000
On �00�02 S2000s, if your customer complains of
hearing a single pop or creak from the rear of the
vehicle when changing direction from forward to
backward and vice versa, the problem may be
axle (driveshaft) movement in the rear hub. To
eliminate the noise, replace the spindle nut on the
affected axle. Apply grease to the surface of the
new spindle nut where it contacts the hub. Torque
the new nut to 298 N�m (220 lb-ft), and stake the
nut.
And:
The clunk/click/pop can be an indication of a serious problem, or a very simple issue that most stooks experience. The simple issue, as mentioned, is a click when first backing or starting out that comes from the rear wheels. The axle hub nut needs torquing to 220 ft-lb even though the manual says 180 ft-lb. If not done in 6-8 weeks, the click can turn into a squeal indicating that your hub bearings are ruined.
Good Luck
#133
Originally Posted by gabster,Oct 17 2010, 06:43 PM
you know shakes are gone, however i still hear some clunking (not clicking) noise from dead stop to go? is this a really bad noise to have? can i drive like that or is something gonna blow up? ( I've the clucking since before the swap)
i checked the rollers and everything "seemed" ok
i checked the rollers and everything "seemed" ok
If that isn't the case then... maybe someone with more experience can give some advice.
#134
Originally Posted by JSenek,Oct 18 2010, 09:52 AM
If it's a single, soft clunk that occurs when you first put the car in to gear, I believe this is normal, especially if you spent time in neutral without the clutch pushed in.
If that isn't the case then... maybe someone with more experience can give some advice.
If that isn't the case then... maybe someone with more experience can give some advice.
#135
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Originally Posted by jdmegtim,Oct 16 2010, 01:17 PM
I don't know if anyone can help me but my passenger rear was vibrating as you guys speak about instead of doing the swap I just changedthe whole axle from the drivershaft well that didn't work at all car makes a weird grinding noise from the passenger rear and when I get to about 50 mph it starts to vibrate under acceleration please help with ant ideas . I have also checked the wheel bearings they are still good
let me add that i had my homeboy riding with me last night and it was really shaking like crazy when we got to around 50 it happens when i accelerate
#136
hey guys i got a problem when i make a right or left turn my rear end start to shake but when i put it in neutral im able to take the turns with out it shaking i can drive the car in straight line and reverse it could it be the inner cv joints
#137
What type of grease is recommend?
just a normal grease or different weights and additives?
one can or tube?
I've been sticking to Mobil products hopefully my local parts store has something
just a normal grease or different weights and additives?
one can or tube?
I've been sticking to Mobil products hopefully my local parts store has something
#139
Hey guys i have this problem with my s2000, it is preety lowerd and i have the vibration on acceleration, i got a mechanic to change the hubs left to right but it seems the vibration has gotten worse. anyone have any suggestions on what i should do to keep costs to minimum?
im looking to raise the car to stock height will this fix the problem?
or should i buy spacers will this get rid of the problem?
or should i just buy 2 brand new aftermarket axles?
any help would be greatly appreciated! cheers from australia
im looking to raise the car to stock height will this fix the problem?
or should i buy spacers will this get rid of the problem?
or should i just buy 2 brand new aftermarket axles?
any help would be greatly appreciated! cheers from australia
#140
Bump,
I've been searching around the forum about my problem and it seems it fits what is described here.
I'm hearing a clunk noise when going into gears (or when I quickly press/release/press the gas pedal) and also feeling vibrations during hard acceleration (feeling them the most when I'm on higher gear and accelerate from lower rpm)
Are these symptoms both related to the Inner CV joint ? Do ppl who were experiencing the vibrations had the clunking noise too?
I guess I'm going to do the swap before doing anything further.
Anyone have experience with the remanufactured cv joint/shaft? It seems like a good deal for ~$70 each after core return:
http://www.theautopartsshop.com/auto+car-u...half-shaft.html
I've been searching around the forum about my problem and it seems it fits what is described here.
I'm hearing a clunk noise when going into gears (or when I quickly press/release/press the gas pedal) and also feeling vibrations during hard acceleration (feeling them the most when I'm on higher gear and accelerate from lower rpm)
Are these symptoms both related to the Inner CV joint ? Do ppl who were experiencing the vibrations had the clunking noise too?
I guess I'm going to do the swap before doing anything further.
Anyone have experience with the remanufactured cv joint/shaft? It seems like a good deal for ~$70 each after core return:
http://www.theautopartsshop.com/auto+car-u...half-shaft.html