(axle bucket) Inner CV joint swap DIY with pics
#112
Many thanks for the great info here. I just did the swap and WOW is the car super smooth now. FYI, the vehicle has 50k miles and is completely stock, but it spent some time lowered before I purchased it and reverted it.
I can also confirm that it is not necessary to completely remove the axles, although you won't have a lot of room to work with. Assuming you've followed the Helm's manual, you should be able to push the axles outwards enough to get the clearance you need (don't forget to unbolt the ABS line).
That's no moon, it's a space station!
I can also confirm that it is not necessary to completely remove the axles, although you won't have a lot of room to work with. Assuming you've followed the Helm's manual, you should be able to push the axles outwards enough to get the clearance you need (don't forget to unbolt the ABS line).
That's no moon, it's a space station!
#113
Originally Posted by JSenek,Oct 10 2010, 05:24 PM
Many thanks for the great info here. I just did the swap and WOW is the car super smooth now. FYI, the vehicle has 50k miles and is completely stock, but it spent some time lowered before I purchased it and reverted it.
I can also confirm that it is not necessary to completely remove the axles, although you won't have a lot of room to work with. Assuming you've followed the Helm's manual, you should be able to push the axles outwards enough to get the clearance you need (don't forget to unbolt the ABS line).
I can also confirm that it is not necessary to completely remove the axles, although you won't have a lot of room to work with. Assuming you've followed the Helm's manual, you should be able to push the axles outwards enough to get the clearance you need (don't forget to unbolt the ABS line).
#114
Originally Posted by gabster,Oct 11 2010, 04:45 AM
I am getting a service manual (don't have it yet) but your saying then, that you just remove the 6 axle-differential bolts and ABS line, and were able to push the axle outward, and just slide the cv bucket out?
I was able to crawl under the car and push outward on the rotor with my foot to get the clearance I needed. Just be careful that you don't push out so far as to put any strain on the ABS line.
It sounds simple now, but it was a bit of a PITA to line everything up just right for reassembly. The rollers on the spider were especially eager to fall off on to my face. Just take your time and try out a few angles and know that yes, it is possible to do.
#116
Originally Posted by gabster,Oct 11 2010, 06:38 AM
when you swap them how much grease did you put in the buckets?
thanks man as soon as i get the manual i just gonna get this over with
thanks man as soon as i get the manual i just gonna get this over with
#117
Originally Posted by JSenek,Oct 11 2010, 09:45 AM
The manual calls for about 5.5oz each. If you order a single 14oz tube (I used Red Line), you should be able to split it between the two and end up with a little left over.
thanks a lot for the help!
#119
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How thick or thin is the Redline grease?
The OEM grease is pretty thin and so was the GKN replacement grease I used.
Comparing the original and the GKN grease with other grease I have I guesstimate the CV grease is no thicker than NGLI 0.
There was no NGLI spec on the GKN package.
The OEM grease is pretty thin and so was the GKN replacement grease I used.
Comparing the original and the GKN grease with other grease I have I guesstimate the CV grease is no thicker than NGLI 0.
There was no NGLI spec on the GKN package.
#120
Registered User
no clue.
but by visual inspection, both oem grease and the redline grease appeared to have similar consistency...just different color.
if anything, the oem grease was more thin, redline grease more thick, but not by much.
but by visual inspection, both oem grease and the redline grease appeared to have similar consistency...just different color.
if anything, the oem grease was more thin, redline grease more thick, but not by much.