U9aXy6Dn

after looking at the diagrams, i'd say that's a decent piece of reasoning. after all, we spent $$$$ on cf 'vortex' generators, or rear diffusers for exactly the same reason.

i think the only thing you could to might be to add fine fins to the oem plate to help guide the air moreso

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GT_NFR

I have updated my previous post to conclude my theory on this OEM radiator plate, please read my previous post.

Boofster

I think this is overanalyzing. You will not overheat one bit with or without the oem plate. If you want to get crazy, try a temp gauge and drive around with it and then without it. If the difference is 0.x, I would forget about the issue.

I thought the AUT wouldn't fit right if the stock is still in there anyway.

GT_NFR

Boofster, I agree I'm being nit picky about the effects of removing the OEM radiator plate because the effects are most likely negligible. But I think the same principle can be applied to placing an AUT plate there in the first place...the effects will be negligible. Either way, my AUT plate should be on its way and I'm down for some testing. btw, you can install the plate with the stock rad plate in place.

Boofster

Once you try it on, you'll see how it won't really fit in there. The stock plate is about 4~5mm. It may work by squishing the rubber but you'd be pushing it. I say remove the oem plastic. Trust me, it will make much more sense to you once you have the AUT and test fit.

I got mine just for looks and don't claim anything about airflow.

Also, don't be afraid to dremel out some of the holes as the AUT doesn't always match 100%. You don't want it to be binding on anything.

SlidinS2k

Not sure how you have yours installed. But, my AUT plate doesn't touch the OEM plate. Maybe the OEM plate mounts differently for AP2's??

SlidinS2k

BTW, I ran mine for a year or so without the OEM plate and never had any overheating problems.

Saki GT

No, the OEM plate is about 4-5" from the AUT plate. The one thing you remove when you add the AUT plate is the metal lip that holds the rubber water seal in place - the cooling plate takes over that job.

Boofster is wrong about being able to install both at the same time, but right about not overhating - id doesn't really make a difference. That said, why bother removing the OEM plate then? No good comes from it.

Boofster

Ok I don't really remember if it was in the way or not but for some reason it made total sense to get rid of the oem piece. Maybe it was that no direct air would come through the duct. Again, use common sense when installing it and look around how things fit.