ATE Super Blue
09-25-2001, 06:35 PM
#21
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I had ATE SuperBlue in my S2000 for the past 7400 miles/7 months/two track days, with no problems whatsoever. Much less suceptible to boiling than the stock fluid. I just replaced it with Motul 600, as I couldn't find the non-blue version of the ATE fluid. 1 liter is plenty to do a complete flush. SpeedBleeders are working well so far, but I still use two people, just to be sure (right RT? 
)
Ted
) Ted
09-25-2001, 07:28 PM
#22
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Originally posted by Mike Schuster
cdelena:
This bleeder works nicely with no need for a second person. You first connect the tank containing brake fluid to the car's fluid reservoir and then pressurize the tank with a hand pump. Then you bleed each caliper normally as new fluid is forced into the system from the pressurized tank.
cdelena:
This bleeder works nicely with no need for a second person. You first connect the tank containing brake fluid to the car's fluid reservoir and then pressurize the tank with a hand pump. Then you bleed each caliper normally as new fluid is forced into the system from the pressurized tank.
By the way, I use Super Blue, Typ 200, and speed-bleeders without problems. Very happy with the ATE (The Porsche guys say its pronounced "ahtae". The Carbotech guys say its "A", "T", "E").
09-25-2001, 07:48 PM
#23
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Here is a link to a previous in-depth discussion of different brake fluid alternatives: http://www.s2000online.com/forums/showthre...s=&threadid=293
Here is a link to the previous discussion of power bleeders: http://www.s2000online.com/forums/showthre...&threadid=20809
Here is a link to the web page describing a home-build pressure bleeder for $25.00 : http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm
Here is a link to the previous discussion of power bleeders: http://www.s2000online.com/forums/showthre...&threadid=20809
Here is a link to the web page describing a home-build pressure bleeder for $25.00 : http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm
09-25-2001, 08:28 PM
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pfb:
I agree the Motive "Universal" adapter is a bit clunky especially when the engine is hot. You have to loop a length of chain underneath the master cylinder, attach the chain ends to the J-shaped clip bolts attached to the top, and then tighten the wing nuts to seal the top against the reservoir. The seal is airtight however and it works very well once installed.
I agree the Motive "Universal" adapter is a bit clunky especially when the engine is hot. You have to loop a length of chain underneath the master cylinder, attach the chain ends to the J-shaped clip bolts attached to the top, and then tighten the wing nuts to seal the top against the reservoir. The seal is airtight however and it works very well once installed.
09-25-2001, 08:49 PM
#25
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Tedster
[B]I had ATE SuperBlue in my S2000 for the past 7400 miles/7 months/two track days, with no problems whatsoever. Much less suceptible to boiling than the stock fluid. I just replaced it with Motul 600, as I couldn't find the non-blue version of the ATE fluid. 1 liter is plenty to do a complete flush. SpeedBleeders are working well so far, but I still use two people, just to be sure (right RT? )
[B]I had ATE SuperBlue in my S2000 for the past 7400 miles/7 months/two track days, with no problems whatsoever. Much less suceptible to boiling than the stock fluid. I just replaced it with Motul 600, as I couldn't find the non-blue version of the ATE fluid. 1 liter is plenty to do a complete flush. SpeedBleeders are working well so far, but I still use two people, just to be sure (right RT?
)
09-26-2001, 12:26 PM
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Originally posted by RT
Yeah, but I hate getting that sh!t on my hands!
I get to push the pedal next time
Yeah, but I hate getting that sh!t on my hands!
I get to push the pedal next time
It's a deal. When are we doing your brakes?
09-28-2001, 06:29 PM
#28
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Solo-bleeders or speed-bleeders work because spring in side pushes seat in bleeder aginst seat in caliper . threads in caliper or on bleeder don't seal anything . Sealent on threads would not fix bad seal in bleeder ( threads are straight cut). A few things that you can try to improve your bleeding .
Don't open bleeder very far.
Don't push petal past where you normally stop at ( put block under petal to stop from going to far)
Push petal slowly
Allow bleeding fluid to move air out of system ( don't try to blast air out)
Don't shake new can's of fluid , pour slowly into master cylinder so you don't agitate fluid. (introduce air)
brad
Don't open bleeder very far.
Don't push petal past where you normally stop at ( put block under petal to stop from going to far)
Push petal slowly
Allow bleeding fluid to move air out of system ( don't try to blast air out)
Don't shake new can's of fluid , pour slowly into master cylinder so you don't agitate fluid. (introduce air)
brad
09-28-2001, 08:05 PM
#30
Originally posted by cdelena
Sorry Brad, not true.. the caliper will suck air right past the threads of the fitting (at least on the Honda caliper). This is the reason the speed bleeders have a heavy sealant on the threads (that wears down) and the Earls bleeders need it. I have watched the air bubbles and learned to resume doing a bleed under pressure.
Sorry Brad, not true.. the caliper will suck air right past the threads of the fitting (at least on the Honda caliper). This is the reason the speed bleeders have a heavy sealant on the threads (that wears down) and the Earls bleeders need it. I have watched the air bubbles and learned to resume doing a bleed under pressure.