PdxPartsCo

In a matter of a few minutes I've found most the parts for what quoted or cheaper. Just because used doesn't equate to junk

Thatls not even throwing s2ki's market place into the equation

Adrenalize

I'd buy the car back, OP.

Yaupon

Not to high jack the thread, but I thought seat belts carried a life time limited warranty. I've taken several Honda Accords that were way out of warranty back to the dealer that weren't retracting properly. They cleaned them at no charge. I suspect that if cleaning didn't fix the problem they would have replaced the belts at n/c.

Gotpepsi

Buy it back, part out the big stuff, engine, trans, diff, tires, seats, lights, and scrap the rest?

jeffbrig

They do carry a lifetime warranty, but as you say, it's limited. A fraying seatbelt would probably be covered, althought they could probably argue that's normal wear & tear after 12 years. As for the retractor, if you do some searching, you'll find that some dealerships will put it through, others won't. I tried a few dealerships locally, and none of them were remotely interested in helping. So, I went ahead and bought the part myself.

/hijack

KnottsHerrington

Looks like the upper control arm mount is bent, could just be the pic. I deal with alot of insurance estimaters at work, most of them under value to true cost of the repair. Trust me there is likely going to be a supplement that they would have to write after it has been "fixed." It also has wiring harness damage to boot. And looking at the pictures, it might even have a steering rack issue. Looks like it was a pretty good hit, I've seen steering racks crack with out damaging tie rods. If you add up the cost of fixing it with labor, and using used suspension, headlight, fender, fender liner, bumper, air pump and more than likely a hood. Not to mention getting all those parts prepped for paint, they rarely come in with zero damage (dings heavy scratches in the paint) ready to paint. I see more towards 7500 in repairs with the unknown suspension damage and the upper control arm mount, and thats with out seeing the car in person or having it on the frame bench. Just my .02, have an estimate done by a reputable shop and go from there. Not saying it couldn't be done cheaper yourself, but from the insurance side of it, damage is over half the value to them.

JaePark

thank you for all your thoughts. I will take these to consideration. As of right now, even if I buy back, I don't have a place to put it so that means I would have to rent out a garage. I am full time student in Florida and Im just so busy with school. so Im leaning towards to just getting the full check. If anything changes and does part out I would let those know.

Bullwings

Some of you are way off on pricing and what you THINK the damage is.

how much damage do you think this is? The airbags did NOT deploy, and the head light was NOT damaged and re-used. The frame was NOT damaged, measured twice, and alignment numbers completely in spec to what i wanted afterwards (still got my 6 degrees of castor and -3.0 degrees of camber afterwards).





































Just shy of $10k in damage.
both control arms, knuckle (snapped), spring, damper, swaybar endlink, bumper and fender replaced/painted, a few other repairs (door/rear quarter panel - paintless dent removal), and labor.

I'd say that damage is $6500+, and I think there might be frame damage... I'd buy it back for the $3k and part it out. With the money from the insurance to total it, and the profits from parting it out, you can easily buy a really nice clean title s2k and still have money left over.

PdxPartsCo

I'd say some of us are more resourceful than anything else.

Quick math tells me your parts costs should have been no more than $1500
600 for paint
Front bumper is cheap and easy to paint
Fender will cost a bit more because it needs to be blended with the door

nissanfanatic

Maybe offer them less? Of course, I doubt they are negotiable but I would offer to come pick it up for $2500.

I'd just be up front and steal all of their arguments "I understand if you are not allowed to negotiate and I am sure that you are just giving me the same price as offered by the scrap yard, but I would really appreciate you selling me the car at $2500. $3000 is a great deal but I am just looking to save a little money after this whole thing and every penny really helps me out..."

Or maybe even start at $2000...

Never know unless you try.