s2000Junky

As someone who has run an F22 with an ap1 trans, its actually a more effective trans in my view then with the F20 pairing because the F22 makes more trq to pull the ap1 trans gearing more so then the F20 can. Should also get real close to a 0-60mph in one shift, rather then two like a factory ap2 does. Although I always just increased the F22 redline to aid in that as well but that's not happening here unless the OP wants to move an Emanage down the road and lower vtec as well to get the full beans out of the combo.

The primary reduction gear in the ap2 trans in 1-4 gears is equivalent to having a 4.22 rear end pairing with the ap1 trans. I did the math on it many years ago when we had a accurate gear calculator on the car to work from. Likewise the ap2 trans is a better pairing with the F20 for the opposite reasons, because the F20 needs the help of a lower effective gear ratio to compensate for its lacking trq.

None of this matters enough to go through the effort and cost unless the swap already needs to be made because it blew up - which is why I did it.

Zer0ne

Yeah, I've also read that the 2.2 would've been perfect with the AP1 gearing and vice versa for the 2.0.

B serious

OP wants to use the stock AP2 ECU.

Even with the AP2 trans, shifting from 1st to 2nd at 8.2K puts you JUST outside of VTEC.

2 to 3 shift is on the borderline too.

With an AP1 trans, he's going to be way out of VTEC on 1-2-3 shifts.

And there is no benefit to lowering VTEC without using a HFC and test pipe. And you'd need an ECU.

I'd go for the full, easy solution and use the AP2 trans.

Idk why you'd want longer gearing in either of these cases.

There's advantages and disadvantages to using the AP2 trans on a F20.

And I'm sure there's advantages and disadvantages to using the AP1 trans on the F22...but IDK about this being ideal.

This whole thing is pointless...he doesn't need a swap yet. And where TF is he going to find a 2.2L nowadays?

indi00

In California, smog shops will tag your car in the DMV database as an engine swap and force to take it to the Bar Smog Check Referee.The engine code is stamped on the engine and can be easily identified. You will need to pass as a 2004 or 2005 car depending on the ECU part number. You'll need to have all emissions equipment intact. Also, you'll need a matching Vin# in the ECU as well, which can only be done at the dealership for $350 or however much they feel like charging. After all said is done, you will get a sticker slapped by your engine strut mount to legally smog at smog shops in the future.

Best bet is reprogram the 2004 2005 ecu to match your immoblizer and encode your vin# into the ECU.