ap2 retainer upgrade question
01-22-2015, 10:08 AM
#11
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I know this is back from the dead and ideally, i'd just PM but since im new, it's not allowing me to PM.
Did the Rope technique work when the lines were alligned? (TDC).I have a compressor, but i don't have that socket that plugs to the line to pressurize the cylinder. so i figure ok..let try another way, with the rope. I was going to use the Bluepoint valve cotter tool to take off the cotters and replace the retainers. THanks!
Did the Rope technique work when the lines were alligned? (TDC).I have a compressor, but i don't have that socket that plugs to the line to pressurize the cylinder. so i figure ok..let try another way, with the rope. I was going to use the Bluepoint valve cotter tool to take off the cotters and replace the retainers. THanks!
01-22-2015, 10:55 AM
#12
Having it at TDC is enough, but if you have it at dead on TDC you can put up to 70psi without turning the crank, but it has to be exactly TDC. Make sure you plug up all the oil holes.
01-24-2015, 11:54 AM
#13
Community Organizer
Since you have BOTH cams off the car TDC is irrelevant essentially. You just need the piston at the top of its stroke. You can do #1 and #4 without rotating the engine. Then do 2 & 3 after turning engine. I used a tiny dowel to make sure I was at the top.
Then for extra good measure I put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and clamped it down so it wouldn't move at all. This assured that I could put 40PSI and never worry about the engine turning......not sure why everybody doesn't do this.
I had a valve drop on me and as stated above it only falls a tiny bit and you just grab it and pull it back up. I was using a different tool that is the hammer punch thing from BluePoint. Worked great and could swap retainers in total about 3 minutes from removal....to the bench....setup of new keepers and installation. NOT KIDDING....3 minutes TOPS!
There is a video from Eric the Car Guy that shows it in action. Kind of amazing.
Then for extra good measure I put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and clamped it down so it wouldn't move at all. This assured that I could put 40PSI and never worry about the engine turning......not sure why everybody doesn't do this.
I had a valve drop on me and as stated above it only falls a tiny bit and you just grab it and pull it back up. I was using a different tool that is the hammer punch thing from BluePoint. Worked great and could swap retainers in total about 3 minutes from removal....to the bench....setup of new keepers and installation. NOT KIDDING....3 minutes TOPS!
There is a video from Eric the Car Guy that shows it in action. Kind of amazing.
01-24-2015, 01:38 PM
#14
Moderator
If number one cylinder is at tdc, then so is number 4.
Number 2 and 3 will be at bdc.
01-24-2015, 01:54 PM
#15
Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101' timestamp='1401712543' post='23185598
The journals on the crank are offset 90 degrees from each other, and the valve train moves at half engine speed. Firing order is 1 3 4 2. So if 1 is tdc 3 is bdc, and 2 and 4 are halfway.
If number one cylinder is at tdc, then so is number 4.
Number 2 and 3 will be at bdc.
Utah
01-26-2015, 04:06 PM
#16
Originally Posted by Billman250' timestamp='1422139111' post='23480231
[quote name='Slowcrash_101' timestamp='1401712543' post='23185598']
The journals on the crank are offset 90 degrees from each other, and the valve train moves at half engine speed. Firing order is 1 3 4 2. So if 1 is tdc 3 is bdc, and 2 and 4 are halfway.
The journals on the crank are offset 90 degrees from each other, and the valve train moves at half engine speed. Firing order is 1 3 4 2. So if 1 is tdc 3 is bdc, and 2 and 4 are halfway.
If number one cylinder is at tdc, then so is number 4.
Number 2 and 3 will be at bdc.
Utah
[/quote]
They call it "Sistah Cylindahs"
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