2001-S2k

So I'm about to do to do the ap2 retainer upgrade to my 2001 s2000 and have a few questions.

1. When moving on to each cylinder do you have to change the TDC to that particualar cylinder or just keep it set to cyclinder 1 througout the process?

2. What are some tips and tricks to NOT dropping a valve? Im using compressed air, and seen that 35psi should be enough?

3. What if a valve was to drop into the engine? How would I retrieve it?

4. I have the OEM valve compressor from autozone, will this work correctly? Anyone with experience? Do i have to modify it?

Thanks for the help guys, I'm just really worried about this job. Im just a 19 year old in college, just basically rebuilt the entire car (new carpet, trunk, lowered it, tons of cleaning, undercoating, brake pads, rotors, countless new parts even down to the screws lol, you name it Ive probably done it to the car over this past month.) This job just really worries me, because of possible engine damage. Once again thank you everyone

PureFunction

Turning it to TDC on each cylinder will help insure you dont drop a valve in the motor. It is not required, but a good idea.

If you dropped a valve all the way in the motor it would likely require the head to be removed. Yes 35-40 psi is good. Much more than 40 and it will turn the crank.

I believe you will have to grind down the spring compressor in a few spots so it will fit.

Worst part of the job is putting the new keepers in imo.

miloking

I read that someone dropped valve into the cylinder and was able to retrieve it thru intake passage so i assume it would be possible thru exhaust passage as well if you removed header... just a thought it if does happen.

Also heard of a "rope" trick if you dont have compressor and/or the sparkplug adapter....

e.g remove sparkplug, stuff soft long lengh of rope into the cylinder to fill up the chamber so valve has nowhere to go... and when done just pull it out.

Utah S2K

1) Move TDC to the cylinder you are working on
2) See 1 above. At TDC the valve can only drop 1/2" or so. TRIPLE check TDC. I use a straw before I pull the spring. Also no air is required at this point. If you put too much pressure the crank may turn lowering the piston on the cylinder and creating the potential valve drop you are concerned with.
TDC cylinder to work on----triple check---compress spring---remove keepers and spring from car----remove spring and retainer from compressor.
Now reassemble: Compessthe spring and new AP2 retainer-----Apply some air---pull up on stem (it may have slipped down to rest on piston top) until it seats; doesn't take much--with the valve now up in place increase air to 35psI---place spring in place and now the keepers (a little grease on the keeper is a BIG help)----remove the compressor--- tap very lightly on the top of the valve stem 2-3 taps to seat the keepers in place. Failure to tap can lead to readjusting your valves again!
3) The only peeps that have this issue failed to monitor TDC or ask Question #1
4) Not sure what configuration the OEM is. Most require grinding. If you go to top stickies in blue there is a DIY for this project. It show the compressor most use....requires some grinding.

Utah

2001-S2k

You guys are awesome thank you so much!

Just to confirm... when I have the cylinder at TDC the valve will ONLY drop 1/2 inches, meaning I will still be able to easily retrieve it? No compressed air need. (Until i go to put the valve back on the retainer, then i would need the 30psi)

And one more question, by spinning the crankshaft for each cylinder, when aligning the cam shafts, as long as the timing marks MATCH for TDC 1 on both the timing chain sprocket and camshafts everything will work correctly?

Thanks again everyone, I wouldn't be able to do this job without your help!

PureFunction

Yes you can pull the valve up from the top if that cylinder is at tdc. It can't drop into the cylinder.

Yes with cylinder 1 at tdc and the cams lined up you will be good.

The air will help but is not needed. I didn't use air at all when I did my exhaust retainers.

Utah S2K

Many find a slight misalignment between the TDC1 cam marks and the crank arrow. After adjusting Cyl 1 at the TDC crank mark I was concerned, as many others have been as my cam marks were not dead on. After research and discussing this question with an Indycar friend at HPD (Honda Performane Development) I was advised to use the cam marks as a primary reference. I did and had no issues. There is a current discussion on this topic as Alex (Ballade Motorsports) recently released a corrective measure for this well known anomaly ( most likely caused by timing chain stretch). It's in Under the Hood.

Utah

P.S. If you manage TDC you have no risk of a valve drop. But remember when you go 180 for the first time you are not at CYL 2! Use the straws and you will be fine. Oh....and plug every oil passage....another triple check.

Slowcrash_101

The journals on the crank are offset 90 degrees from each other, and the valve train moves at half engine speed. Firing order is 1 3 4 2. So if 1 is tdc 3 is bdc, and 2 and 4 are halfway.

2001-S2k

Thanks everyone, I just finished the job yesterday and everything went perfect. I was even able to line up the timing marks correctly 1st shot, so that took some worry out of it. Now i just have to put the valve cover on, new spark plugs, start her up and pray haha

Utah S2K

Put a light film of oil on the 4 plug tube gaskets. Triple check the cover gasket and head metal are clean. Lightly wipe each and visually inspect. Drop the rear of the cover first. You then have to finger the seal on cyl four to start it down the tube (comments on fingering will be ignored ). The en work forward. As for plugs the is a great DIY in the blue stickies on gaps, plugs, etc.

Utah