iDomN8U

It's been mathematically calculated and its like revving an ap1 to 9800 or something like that.

There is a rev limiter in place for a reason and there a small saftely net above that for reliability, IMHO you are past that when you get to 9k on a 2.2 motor, the rev limiter is shortened for many reasons.

It can only take so much...

Jimboner

Ok.rob so run the ap1 cams in the AP2 head is the same as ap1 head on the f22 long block? Or is there a difference in the cylinder head its self? ie: compression, valves, ect... Is the lift and duration on the F20 cams that much more then the f22 cams? Because I know my top end is still good just the bottom end IS going, its not gone yet.

Also if I run a programable EMS what do I set the redline too? or Vtech engagement? I want to beable to run this as a DD. Its NOT my daily but I will be driving this alot. I dont want to screw myself in long run for a little extra power now. Ya know?

negcamber

The heads are the same other than a couple minor differences (valve spring retainers for example)...nothing that makes a difference in swapping them. The cams are the only major difference.

If you get an EMS, you can safely run the rpm up to 8500 (at least that is where Hondata sets their redline for the MY06+ reflash). The tuner will also play with the VTEC cross over (Vtech is a phone ). Make sure you find a good tuner to set up your EMS.

Jimboner

hahah @ the phone comment... That lil "h" just jumped on the end lol

Would there be any benifit to running one head or the other? Like if I both heads and had to choose one or the other. What would be best?

Jimboner

Oh yeah with AP1 tranny and flywheel and F22 with f20 head what kinda numbers could one expect? HP and TQ wise...

00wreckedS

i made 215hp and 156tq with f22, ap1 trans, flywheel, MY00ap1 ecu untuned, rev'd to 8100rpm

but most ppl r going to tell you dyno's read different between styles, location, etc

rob.ok

I'd chose the head that was in the best shape or had the least amount of miles on it. There is no difference in the casting that is gonna make any difference.

While your at it though you should freshen things up. It would not be a bad idea to buy new valve seals and and the newer AP2 retainers.

2.2L with AP1 cams have done 250-260+ on a danapak dyno. The results are pretty impressive over the baseline F20.

The rev limiter should be set at 8400 if you plan on spinning the motor that high all the time. The VTEC crossover can be set to whatever you and the tuner think is good for your needs. if you set it around 5000 rpm you will not miss that extra 1K rpms of VTEC of the AP1 which is really nice. Obviously the lower the more power and torque you'll make. The cheap way to do it though would just be to run your stock ECU and get a shift beeper and set it where you want it. Just be careful not to over rev the engine. Then later when funds are available get the the standalone. The standalone will give you more options in the future too like VTC (only AEM right now) and ITBS!

Jimboner

Ok so for a stand alone EMS would the AEM EMS version 1012 work? i know its the old discontinued modle but still could i manage? Is there that much more benifit to running a newer modle?

rob.ok

I don't know but I do know that its about to become the old, old version. The new EMS and software is about to be released...expect to be able to pick up the current model for pretty cheap hear pretty soon. You'll see em up for sale as well as vendors blowing out stock.

Soul Coughing

i have a f22 with a ap1 trans. I also have 3.9 gearing which works well for me with my boosted setup. I have had no issues with the setup and enjoy it compared to friends with ap2 trans that have to shift more often.