sp00led

I just made sure they were tight and secure. What is the procedure for testing the grounds for resistance and voltage drop?

My Fluke multimeter shows .2 on OHM when touching the probes together. I'm going to touch each end of the two chassis grounds when I get home and report back with the readings. They are easy enough to get to and I'm pretty sure the starter body is grounded to the transmission/block.

Is there a ground on the transmission? The only ones in that area I found were the two grounds that are next to the starter. This is where the fuel hard line goes to soft.

WarrenW

Last year I wasn't sure if I had a bad battery or alternator. I did a multimeter test and posted the results on S2Ki. Turns out the battery was bad.

Here are my results from that test. Hopefully they'll help you.

Battery before start up (all power off): 12.67V (dips to ~9.5V when starter is engaged).

With car on:

No electrical load:
At idle: 13.39V
At 3k RPM: 14.41V

Lights only on:
At idle: 14.26 initially then up to 14.32
At 3k RPM: 14.37

A/C only on:
At idle: ~13.5 initially then up to 14.19
At 3k RPM: 14.20

Both Lights and A/C on:
At idle: 14.02
At 3k RPM: 14.12

Turned power off and battery voltage started dropping into the 13's.

sp00led

That voltage drop when starting is about what I get. I thought it was a little low. Did it still drop to ~9.6v with a new battery?

WarrenW

Good question. I should have checked but didn't. When I put in the new battery and it started immediately I knew the problem had been solved.

sp00led

I verified the G101 ground on the wire harness is grounded to the head. You can't see it or wrench it while the head is on but it felt secure. I just checked the resistance on the two grounds to the engine body/chassis as well as the battery/chassis and all were .4 ohm. I have a fluke multimeter and it read .2 when touching the probes together. I get the same 12.7v at the battery as I do at the starter when I touch the hot and the chassis ground. I took both the grounds and lightly cleaned them up on the bench grinder. I hit the block with a wire wheel and cleaned it up along with the chassis mount.

That didn't fix anything...

I'm going to try the battery/jumper cable to starter method but it's going to require some effort since the starter post is hard to reach and I'm using a big ass clamp. I'll have to tape off the clamp to make sure I only get continuity where I want it.

Vatko

If you have a lot of miles on your S with the original starter... that might be getting weak by now, and it won't turn over as fast.

sp00led

I put a brand new starter in the car along with the battery. Same symptoms as before.

mmm...vtec

Have u tried using a thicker cable due to batt relocation?

sp00led

So I went and picked up some 4 gauge stinger cable. I connected it from the battery straight to the starter outside the car.... Damn thing fires right up!!!!

I didn't drive it or put it to a endurance test because there is cable on the ground that isn't tucked.

Most Hondas (civic/integra) have two wires on the hot post. One for the high load fuse box under the hood and the other goes to the starter. Well on the s2k it goes to the fuse box under the hood and the other goes into the firewall through the windshield cowl to the EPS (electronic power steering) fuse box. Then it goes to the starter. Well I bypassed all that and it is starting. The EPS has never gave me problems.

I think i won!

vividracing.com

Glad you got it sorted out!