AP1 ticking after AP2 Retainer Upgrade
#1
AP1 ticking after AP2 Retainer Upgrade
Hello guys,
I just wanted to get your input on my engine noise after performing a retainer and keeper upgrade. My question is: is this the valve train making noise? Meaning should I readjust all of my valves?
Car is currently at 130k and had no noise there’s severe prior to install. It doesn’t sound like the TCT, or is it?
Any help and any direction towards solving this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
-Tim
I just wanted to get your input on my engine noise after performing a retainer and keeper upgrade. My question is: is this the valve train making noise? Meaning should I readjust all of my valves?
Car is currently at 130k and had no noise there’s severe prior to install. It doesn’t sound like the TCT, or is it?
Any help and any direction towards solving this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
-Tim
#2
That's really noisy. What did you set your valve lash to?
#3
I set them to the more loose end of the allowed limit so 0.25mm for intake side and 0.29mm for exhaust side.
First time doing valve adjustment so maybe I need to open it up and double check all the clearances.
I am not driving the car currently as I don’t want to cause more damage.
one thing to note was that when setting TDC before removing the cam gears, the notches near the serpentine belt were not aligned perfected. When I reinstalled the cams and rotated the crankshaft to be at TDC, I but it a little closer to the arrow on the engine to line it up.
Could this affect it? Should I set it back to how it was before I swapped the retainers?
First time doing valve adjustment so maybe I need to open it up and double check all the clearances.
I am not driving the car currently as I don’t want to cause more damage.
one thing to note was that when setting TDC before removing the cam gears, the notches near the serpentine belt were not aligned perfected. When I reinstalled the cams and rotated the crankshaft to be at TDC, I but it a little closer to the arrow on the engine to line it up.
Could this affect it? Should I set it back to how it was before I swapped the retainers?
#4
I set them to the more loose end of the allowed limit so 0.25mm for intake side and 0.29mm for exhaust side.
First time doing valve adjustment so maybe I need to open it up and double check all the clearances.
I am not driving the car currently as I don’t want to cause more damage.
one thing to note was that when setting TDC before removing the cam gears, the notches near the serpentine belt were not aligned perfected. When I reinstalled the cams and rotated the crankshaft to be at TDC, I but it a little closer to the arrow on the engine to line it up.
Could this affect it? Should I set it back to how it was before I swapped the retainers?
First time doing valve adjustment so maybe I need to open it up and double check all the clearances.
I am not driving the car currently as I don’t want to cause more damage.
one thing to note was that when setting TDC before removing the cam gears, the notches near the serpentine belt were not aligned perfected. When I reinstalled the cams and rotated the crankshaft to be at TDC, I but it a little closer to the arrow on the engine to line it up.
Could this affect it? Should I set it back to how it was before I swapped the retainers?
As for clearance, you went on the loosest side of the spec. Shouldn't cause that much noise but the noise could mainly be because of the new TDC setting you chose for your crank, main gear and cams that cause the timing chain to feel looser. The timing marks may change slightly over time to compensate for chain wear or mainly TCT wear causing the chain to get slightly loose
#5
About the timing marks: I wanted to set my main gear to have both its timing marks exactly flush with the head like what you did but I realised my cams wouldn't necessarily lineup at TDC like they should in that case. I set the timing marks including the crank's arrow marker exactly as they were before I removed my cams for the same retainer upgrade you did. Perhaps that could be the issue you are having...
As for clearance, you went on the loosest side of the spec. Shouldn't cause that much noise but the noise could mainly be because of the new TDC setting you chose for your crank, main gear and cams that cause the timing chain to feel looser. The timing marks may change slightly over time to compensate for chain wear or mainly TCT wear causing the chain to get slightly loose
As for clearance, you went on the loosest side of the spec. Shouldn't cause that much noise but the noise could mainly be because of the new TDC setting you chose for your crank, main gear and cams that cause the timing chain to feel looser. The timing marks may change slightly over time to compensate for chain wear or mainly TCT wear causing the chain to get slightly loose
I appreciate all the helpful information. I’m guessing you setting TDC as it was previously didn’t cause any excessive noise? Might have to redo it tomorrow. Thanks again!
#7
You're welcome! I'm assuming it'll sound just as good as it did but I can't confirm since I'm still getting my cam caps on to the rocker assembly. Some of the holes aren't lining up so I need to do some adjusting of the shafts to get the middle bolts to thread thru easily. I have a good feeling about leaving the timing marks EXACTLY where they were before I did the retainer job and yes, there was no weird or loud noise then
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#8
so you’re saying that if the timing wasn’t right, then the motor wouldn’t start correct? I’ve had a lot of misinformation from other forum posts where some say the car will start, while others say if it’s one tooth off, the engine won’t start.
Last edited by Sysapower; 09-07-2020 at 07:17 AM.