AP1 swap into BMW 2002.
#13
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Thanks for the kind words everyone. If anyone has the wiring for the fuse box and whatever it connects to that be great I can't seem to locate it and still don't have a manual that shows it in depth.
#14
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2.) On the back I have three hoses in question. First is the one on the rear of the intake, which would be the vacuum for the brake booster so I can plug that for the time being. Below that I'm not sure what significance that hose has can it be plugged? the bottom one is another heater hose so I can plug that sucker too?
#15
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2.) On the back I have three hoses in question. First is the one on the rear of the intake, which would be the vacuum for the brake booster so I can plug that for the time being. Below that I'm not sure what significance that hose has can it be plugged? the bottom one is another heater hose so I can plug that sucker too?
If anyone knows the essential sensors for startup to that would be great. Thanks again for the help.
#16
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having an issue with the wiring for "Connector A" on the far left side of the ECM in this photo
![](http://www.modifry.com/products/yj/fw_wiring_stock.jpg)
Really could use a schematic for how this harness joins the rest of the car. If anyone can help me out that be great! Can't find it in the manuals.
![](http://www.modifry.com/products/yj/fw_wiring_stock.jpg)
Really could use a schematic for how this harness joins the rest of the car. If anyone can help me out that be great! Can't find it in the manuals.
#17
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I've done a few F20C implants into clubman race cars ( see www.speedracersportscars.com.au)
These diagrams should help http://dl.dropbox.com/u/55456965/F20C%20wiring.zip
You need to keep the water hose that joins the outlet pipe at the back of the head to the top of the water pump. Without this the thermostat will not regulate temps correctly. You can remove the one from the oil cooler. Ideally leave the oil cooler in place if you have the space.
You will need to get the A plug and C101 plugs from a donor car, and also the key code reader & plug off the lock barrel along with a key that matches your ECU. If you are going aftermarket or JDM ECU you do not need the key reader. JDM ecu has a 180kmh speed limiter. Use a HKS defencer.
These diagrams should help http://dl.dropbox.com/u/55456965/F20C%20wiring.zip
You need to keep the water hose that joins the outlet pipe at the back of the head to the top of the water pump. Without this the thermostat will not regulate temps correctly. You can remove the one from the oil cooler. Ideally leave the oil cooler in place if you have the space.
You will need to get the A plug and C101 plugs from a donor car, and also the key code reader & plug off the lock barrel along with a key that matches your ECU. If you are going aftermarket or JDM ECU you do not need the key reader. JDM ecu has a 180kmh speed limiter. Use a HKS defencer.
#19
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I've done a few F20C implants into clubman race cars ( see www.speedracersportscars.com.au)
These diagrams should help http://dl.dropbox.com/u/55456965/F20C%20wiring.zip
You need to keep the water hose that joins the outlet pipe at the back of the head to the top of the water pump. Without this the thermostat will not regulate temps correctly. You can remove the one from the oil cooler. Ideally leave the oil cooler in place if you have the space.
You will need to get the A plug and C101 plugs from a donor car, and also the key code reader & plug off the lock barrel along with a key that matches your ECU. If you are going aftermarket or JDM ECU you do not need the key reader. JDM ecu has a 180kmh speed limiter. Use a HKS defencer.
These diagrams should help http://dl.dropbox.com/u/55456965/F20C%20wiring.zip
You need to keep the water hose that joins the outlet pipe at the back of the head to the top of the water pump. Without this the thermostat will not regulate temps correctly. You can remove the one from the oil cooler. Ideally leave the oil cooler in place if you have the space.
You will need to get the A plug and C101 plugs from a donor car, and also the key code reader & plug off the lock barrel along with a key that matches your ECU. If you are going aftermarket or JDM ECU you do not need the key reader. JDM ecu has a 180kmh speed limiter. Use a HKS defencer.
Here's what I have got going so far
![](http://endvrdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/768.jpg)
I believe everything in Gray I will have no use for to start the engine.
![](http://endvrdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/769.jpg)
The loom connects to the Under dash fuse box loom
![](http://endvrdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/770.jpg)
I can't seem to find diagrams regarding these connectors, but I plugged these in from the harness that comes from the ecm/cluster to the under dash fuse box harness
(not sure what the blue connector is for)
![](http://endvrdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/771.jpg)
another blue connector, which I'm not sure what value it has for the operating system
![](http://endvrdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/772.jpg)
last of the connectors from the ecm harness to the under dash fuse box
![](http://endvrdaily.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/773.jpg)
Going to read up some more and hopefully these will start making sense to me.
#20
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I can't see in the pics but do you have the main PCM relay?
Also, are you trying to start on the factory ECU? Is it a JDM one or US market one?
The JDM one uses a different fuel pump relay wire to the US market one. Something to watch if you are mixing and matching parts. From memory its something like A15 and A16 so you can just move the pin on the plug across.
Don't be surprised if the injectors have frozen with dried fuel residue. I find a quick tickle with battery voltage gets them clicking again once you have fuel pressure wetting them from behind.
Also, are you trying to start on the factory ECU? Is it a JDM one or US market one?
The JDM one uses a different fuel pump relay wire to the US market one. Something to watch if you are mixing and matching parts. From memory its something like A15 and A16 so you can just move the pin on the plug across.
Don't be surprised if the injectors have frozen with dried fuel residue. I find a quick tickle with battery voltage gets them clicking again once you have fuel pressure wetting them from behind.