billios996

I love this motor swap into classics. I see roll bar and racing seat, is this going to be a track car?

Curtis61

I can't wait to see this thing finished.

heist

thanks. From the reading I have done so far you look to be right. Hopefully this week I hunt down an AEM series 2 box and start the fuses.

Thanks for the kind words everyone. If anyone has the wiring for the fuse box and whatever it connects to that be great I can't seem to locate it and still don't have a manual that shows it in depth.

AP1Theory

The hose on the front of the intake manifold is the EGR Valve which connects to the secondary air injection pump(air pump). Some air injection delete kits make a kit that comes with a metal plate that blocks it off. Click Here for an example You'll probably need this kit to run the engine without a CEL too if you are planning on using the OEM ECU.

heist

Hunting for a AEM series 2 right now so I should be able to bypass any issues with codes. Considering smog is irrelevant now I believe I can remove all of the air injection system.

If anyone knows the essential sensors for startup to that would be great. Thanks again for the help.

heist

having an issue with the wiring for "Connector A" on the far left side of the ECM in this photo


Really could use a schematic for how this harness joins the rest of the car. If anyone can help me out that be great! Can't find it in the manuals.

chris_barry

I've done a few F20C implants into clubman race cars ( see www.speedracersportscars.com.au)

These diagrams should help http://dl.dropbox.com/u/55456965/F20C%20wiring.zip

You need to keep the water hose that joins the outlet pipe at the back of the head to the top of the water pump. Without this the thermostat will not regulate temps correctly. You can remove the one from the oil cooler. Ideally leave the oil cooler in place if you have the space.

You will need to get the A plug and C101 plugs from a donor car, and also the key code reader & plug off the lock barrel along with a key that matches your ECU. If you are going aftermarket or JDM ECU you do not need the key reader. JDM ecu has a 180kmh speed limiter. Use a HKS defencer.

spets

He is running AEM, so the immobilizer should be disabled and not be an issue.

heist

Thanks this has been very useful. I put the hose back on and purchased a lot of wiring and gauges. I now have the A plug C101 connector along with the full harness.

Here's what I have got going so far


I believe everything in Gray I will have no use for to start the engine.


The loom connects to the Under dash fuse box loom


I can't seem to find diagrams regarding these connectors, but I plugged these in from the harness that comes from the ecm/cluster to the under dash fuse box harness
(not sure what the blue connector is for)

another blue connector, which I'm not sure what value it has for the operating system


last of the connectors from the ecm harness to the under dash fuse box


Going to read up some more and hopefully these will start making sense to me.

chris_barry

I can't see in the pics but do you have the main PCM relay?

Also, are you trying to start on the factory ECU? Is it a JDM one or US market one?

The JDM one uses a different fuel pump relay wire to the US market one. Something to watch if you are mixing and matching parts. From memory its something like A15 and A16 so you can just move the pin on the plug across.

Don't be surprised if the injectors have frozen with dried fuel residue. I find a quick tickle with battery voltage gets them clicking again once you have fuel pressure wetting them from behind.