AP1 running rough, HELP
08-12-2012, 04:26 PM
#251
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Originally Posted by LAp1' timestamp='1344791749' post='21931175
[quote name='paul2011s2000' timestamp='1344790827' post='21931151']
[quote name='LAp1' timestamp='1344789997' post='21931131']
UPDATE:
Removed airbox yesterday which gave me plenty of room to measure crank endplay. I mounted the magnetic base to the middle of the steering rack and put the pointer on the DTI dead on the center of the crank pulley bolt. Serpentine belt off, car in neutral, pushed the crank pulley as far toward rear of car as I could get it to go, ZERO'd DTI, pushed crank pulley toward rear of car again to make sure that DTI is fully ZERO'd out. It would drop from .000" to -.002" while I was pushing on it, then ZERO back out totally once I let pressure off the pulley. I put a pry tool between the crank pulley and the block and pried forward slightly. While I was applying forward pressure, the DTI would go as high as .011", which is still in spec, and once I stopped applying pressure it would even out at .008", which is plenty in spec, and way under the service limit.
I made a video with my iPhone that I can text message or email to someone, just to get an extra set of eyes on it. But in my opinion, my thrust washers seem to be totally fine
[quote name='LAp1' timestamp='1344789997' post='21931131']
UPDATE:
Removed airbox yesterday which gave me plenty of room to measure crank endplay. I mounted the magnetic base to the middle of the steering rack and put the pointer on the DTI dead on the center of the crank pulley bolt. Serpentine belt off, car in neutral, pushed the crank pulley as far toward rear of car as I could get it to go, ZERO'd DTI, pushed crank pulley toward rear of car again to make sure that DTI is fully ZERO'd out. It would drop from .000" to -.002" while I was pushing on it, then ZERO back out totally once I let pressure off the pulley. I put a pry tool between the crank pulley and the block and pried forward slightly. While I was applying forward pressure, the DTI would go as high as .011", which is still in spec, and once I stopped applying pressure it would even out at .008", which is plenty in spec, and way under the service limit.
I made a video with my iPhone that I can text message or email to someone, just to get an extra set of eyes on it. But in my opinion, my thrust washers seem to be totally fine
My MAP sensor upgrade and primary O2 will be in early next week, I'll get those changed myself and report back. I'll also be ordering my clutch parts and motor mounts today. Hopefully I can have everything in and installed this week.
Sidenote...I'm still having the squealing from the rear end that I mentioned a while back. I also mentioned it to the mechanic at Downtown Auto and he said the sliders on the calipers were dry and catching. I took all that apart yesterday and greased it up properly and I'm still getting the squealing. Could this be rear axle nuts?
[/quote]
I was told by "Honda", that these cars do suffer from sticking/seizing calipers, if not maintained regularly. That said, I haven't touched mine and have had no problems as yet, but it is on my to do list. It's a fairly easy, inexspensive job you can probably do yourself.
[/quote]
I did it yesterday! Still having the problem...He said it was the slider on the caliper and not the actual piston and I greased the shit out of them with the proper grease (I can get the brand name tomorrow) and the noise is worse than before. So either its the piston sticking or its loose axle nuts or possibly my original thought, bad wheel bearings...
08-12-2012, 04:31 PM
#252
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I looked up wheel bearing noises on Youtube today and my noise is nothing like that. the wheel bearing noise was more of a knocking and my noise is a LOUD SCREECHING...when I pass gas stations etc where there are people outside, everyone turns to see what the horrid noise is! lol
Also, I heard that axle nut noise is more of a clicking noise but I remember reading somewhere that if they are loose for a long time, the wheel bearings won't mate to the hub properly and cause squealing from the race spinning or something(don't quote me on that)...just trying to brainstorm because this noise sounds like metal on metal so whatever it may be, it can't be good.
Also, I heard that axle nut noise is more of a clicking noise but I remember reading somewhere that if they are loose for a long time, the wheel bearings won't mate to the hub properly and cause squealing from the race spinning or something(don't quote me on that)...just trying to brainstorm because this noise sounds like metal on metal so whatever it may be, it can't be good.
08-12-2012, 07:58 PM
#253
I gotta hand it to you. I'm really impressed with your motivation and willingness to learn and do things yourself. To go from knowing almost nothing to all that you have done yourself in a year or less is pretty good.
Anyway, from what I understand, wheel bearing noises are actually quite variable. Have you jacked the car up and just spun the wheels by hand to hear the noise?
Anyway, from what I understand, wheel bearing noises are actually quite variable. Have you jacked the car up and just spun the wheels by hand to hear the noise?
08-13-2012, 06:07 AM
#254
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I gotta hand it to you. I'm really impressed with your motivation and willingness to learn and do things yourself. To go from knowing almost nothing to all that you have done yourself in a year or less is pretty good.
Anyway, from what I understand, wheel bearing noises are actually quite variable. Have you jacked the car up and just spun the wheels by hand to hear the noise?
Anyway, from what I understand, wheel bearing noises are actually quite variable. Have you jacked the car up and just spun the wheels by hand to hear the noise?
When I pulled the brakes apart Saturday, I figured that it was the sliders on the calipers sticking so I didn't really check anything else...But I have jacked the car up recently and 'shook' the wheels to see if there was any extra play and didn't notice anything. I also have been feeling the center caps on my rear wheels after I drive and they are the same temp as the front wheels (I read somewhere that bad wheel bearings will create tons of extra heat that you can feel through the center caps). I can always take a video of this noise with my iphone and email or text it to someone...
08-13-2012, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by davidc1' timestamp='1344830282' post='21932154
I gotta hand it to you. I'm really impressed with your motivation and willingness to learn and do things yourself. To go from knowing almost nothing to all that you have done yourself in a year or less is pretty good.
Anyway, from what I understand, wheel bearing noises are actually quite variable. Have you jacked the car up and just spun the wheels by hand to hear the noise?
Anyway, from what I understand, wheel bearing noises are actually quite variable. Have you jacked the car up and just spun the wheels by hand to hear the noise?
When I pulled the brakes apart Saturday, I figured that it was the sliders on the calipers sticking so I didn't really check anything else...But I have jacked the car up recently and 'shook' the wheels to see if there was any extra play and didn't notice anything. I also have been feeling the center caps on my rear wheels after I drive and they are the same temp as the front wheels (I read somewhere that bad wheel bearings will create tons of extra heat that you can feel through the center caps). I can always take a video of this noise with my iphone and email or text it to someone...
08-13-2012, 09:00 AM
#256
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Originally Posted by LAp1' timestamp='1344866862' post='21932813
[quote name='davidc1' timestamp='1344830282' post='21932154']
I gotta hand it to you. I'm really impressed with your motivation and willingness to learn and do things yourself. To go from knowing almost nothing to all that you have done yourself in a year or less is pretty good.
Anyway, from what I understand, wheel bearing noises are actually quite variable. Have you jacked the car up and just spun the wheels by hand to hear the noise?
I gotta hand it to you. I'm really impressed with your motivation and willingness to learn and do things yourself. To go from knowing almost nothing to all that you have done yourself in a year or less is pretty good.
Anyway, from what I understand, wheel bearing noises are actually quite variable. Have you jacked the car up and just spun the wheels by hand to hear the noise?
When I pulled the brakes apart Saturday, I figured that it was the sliders on the calipers sticking so I didn't really check anything else...But I have jacked the car up recently and 'shook' the wheels to see if there was any extra play and didn't notice anything. I also have been feeling the center caps on my rear wheels after I drive and they are the same temp as the front wheels (I read somewhere that bad wheel bearings will create tons of extra heat that you can feel through the center caps). I can always take a video of this noise with my iphone and email or text it to someone...
[/quote]
I thought so also...I changed the rear pads recently myself when this horrid squeal started, thinking that it was my wear indicators saying I needed new pads. Changed pads, changed fluid to ATE Super Blue, and changed brake lines to Challenge SS lines. I still have the squeal and its getting worse and worse. The mechanic mentioned that the pads aren't applying evenly, which I noticed also (line of rust around rotor where pad isn't touching, also there was a spot on the pad where you could tell it hadn't been touching) I put more antisqueal to the back of the pads, reinstalled everything properly, still squealing...Could it be the piston not engaging properly?
08-13-2012, 09:10 AM
#257
On the rear pads of an S2k, you have to line up the little "knob" on the pad with the groove on the piston. If you don't, the pad will be tilted and won't wear evenly. A lot of people miss this.
On the piston, there are two grooves, 90 degress apart, formiing what looks like an X. You have to have those grooves at 90 angles to the caliper so one of them will fit around the "knob" on the back of the pad. Did you do this?
On the piston, there are two grooves, 90 degress apart, formiing what looks like an X. You have to have those grooves at 90 angles to the caliper so one of them will fit around the "knob" on the back of the pad. Did you do this?
08-13-2012, 09:28 AM
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On the rear pads of an S2k, you have to line up the little "knob" on the pad with the groove on the piston. If you don't, the pad will be tilted and won't wear evenly. A lot of people miss this.
On the piston, there are two grooves, 90 degress apart, formiing what looks like an X. You have to have those grooves at 90 angles to the caliper so one of them will fit around the "knob" on the back of the pad. Did you do this?
On the piston, there are two grooves, 90 degress apart, formiing what looks like an X. You have to have those grooves at 90 angles to the caliper so one of them will fit around the "knob" on the back of the pad. Did you do this?
08-13-2012, 09:32 AM
#259
Originally Posted by davidc1' timestamp='1344877821' post='21933371
On the rear pads of an S2k, you have to line up the little "knob" on the pad with the groove on the piston. If you don't, the pad will be tilted and won't wear evenly. A lot of people miss this.
On the piston, there are two grooves, 90 degress apart, formiing what looks like an X. You have to have those grooves at 90 angles to the caliper so one of them will fit around the "knob" on the back of the pad. Did you do this?
On the piston, there are two grooves, 90 degress apart, formiing what looks like an X. You have to have those grooves at 90 angles to the caliper so one of them will fit around the "knob" on the back of the pad. Did you do this?
08-13-2012, 10:06 AM
#260
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Originally Posted by LAp1' timestamp='1344878880' post='21933430
[quote name='davidc1' timestamp='1344877821' post='21933371']
On the rear pads of an S2k, you have to line up the little "knob" on the pad with the groove on the piston. If you don't, the pad will be tilted and won't wear evenly. A lot of people miss this.
On the piston, there are two grooves, 90 degress apart, formiing what looks like an X. You have to have those grooves at 90 angles to the caliper so one of them will fit around the "knob" on the back of the pad. Did you do this?
On the rear pads of an S2k, you have to line up the little "knob" on the pad with the groove on the piston. If you don't, the pad will be tilted and won't wear evenly. A lot of people miss this.
On the piston, there are two grooves, 90 degress apart, formiing what looks like an X. You have to have those grooves at 90 angles to the caliper so one of them will fit around the "knob" on the back of the pad. Did you do this?
[/quote]
Thanks, I'll get it checked out today after work. Now back to that horrid squeal...