AP1 running rough, HELP
#231
Moderator
Take the belt off.
Car in neutral.
After that, ALL s2k cranks can move back and forth by hand. You need very little leverage. Even a plastic pry tool can pry the crank forward. Then you put the pointer on there, set it to an even number like 30, then push the crank in. If it moves to 18, you have .012 crank thrust
Car in neutral.
After that, ALL s2k cranks can move back and forth by hand. You need very little leverage. Even a plastic pry tool can pry the crank forward. Then you put the pointer on there, set it to an even number like 30, then push the crank in. If it moves to 18, you have .012 crank thrust
#232
Take the belt off.
Car in neutral.
After that, ALL s2k cranks can move back and forth by hand. You need very little leverage. Even a plastic pry tool can pry the crank forward. Then you put the pointer on there, set it to an even number like 30, then push the crank in. If it moves to 18, you have .012 crank thrust
Car in neutral.
After that, ALL s2k cranks can move back and forth by hand. You need very little leverage. Even a plastic pry tool can pry the crank forward. Then you put the pointer on there, set it to an even number like 30, then push the crank in. If it moves to 18, you have .012 crank thrust
Mucho gracias...I'll let you know how I fare.
#234
I put a wrench between the block and crank pulley, car in neutral, belt off, tried to pry it forward and can't see or feel any movement at all. I'm scared to pry too hard on the crank pulley and break it. Is there something I'm doing wrong, or am I just not feeling or seeing the movement even though its moving, or is not moving because my thrust washers are shot? I know these questions I'm posting may seem somewhat foolish, but I'm trying to learn in a cost effective manner. Trial and error is the best way to learn, but not so good for the wallet. Thanks in advance for the understanding.
#235
I put a wrench between the block and crank pulley, car in neutral, belt off, tried to pry it forward and can't see or feel any movement at all. I'm scared to pry too hard on the crank pulley and break it. Is there something I'm doing wrong, or am I just not feeling or seeing the movement even though its moving, or is not moving because my thrust washers are shot? I know these questions I'm posting may seem somewhat foolish, but I'm trying to learn in a cost effective manner. Trial and error is the best way to learn, but not so good for the wallet. Thanks in advance for the understanding.
#236
From what my manual says: A new/healthy engine should have 0.006-0.012 inch of float/play, with 0.016 inch being your service limit. So it seems you should be able to measure some movement. But if this is incorrect, hopefully Dr Billman or one of the others will let us know.
#237
Out of the 1,000,000,000,000 ways to mount the DCI, I could not find one. If someone would like to take a picture of a DCI properly mounted to measure crank end play, I'll paypal you $20. Tired of waiting and waiting and waiting just to figure out if this car is worth keeping. If its worth it, time to have it running right. If not, it's time to band-aid it up and look to sell it. Sorry about needing to be taught everything, but I'm totally new to mechanics.
#238
Is your dti like this? If it is not you could have the wrong thing. Dr Billman said it is ok to mount it on the body. So straighten out all the joints of the DTI and magnetically mount it on the inner wing (exhaust side of the engine bay). Then touch the dti on the lower/crank pulley. Carefully lever behind the pulley and check for dial movement. Then get someone else to watch the DTI dial and push the clutch. Be sure you understand what deflection of the DTI dial you're looking for before you start, you may be getting movement but are expecting more. I'm not after your $, just trying to help if I can.
#240