davidc1

OK. went by and picked up my car today after work. first thing i mentioned was the thrust bearings. he said no way, so i asked for an explanation. he barely speaks english but he basically told me that if the thrust bearings were bad then when i push in the clutch it would want to die and i would find wear on the belt from the crank having excessive play.

approx $1200 for the clutch, upgraded to street/strip combo for if i want to do more power later on and price will depend on what brand id want to go with. also he mentioned he'd have to change both motor mounts and will quote me out tomorrow at 2pm. he said he'll change the primary o2 for free since he'll be rite there anyways.

Billman would you just like his number? haha
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Sounds way the hell expensive for the clutch. I think I paid between $700-800 complete for the OEM clutch is usual. He must be quoting you for an expensive aftermarket. All on the forum would agree you do not need anything other than a stock clutch unless you are going to turbo/super charge the car. You can only get an extra 30-40hp or so by modifying the car even spending many thousands on parts and tuning.

Have him check the play on the thrust bearings when he fixes the clutch. Just tell him that several S2000 specialists mechanics (make sure you mention they are mechanics) suggested it.

Changing the O2 sensor is fine, but again, how do you know it's bad? Although it is possible that its responding "slowly" even when no CEL is shown. Many suggest replacing the primary every 100,000 as maintenance. I just did it. When he said he'd change it for "free", does that include the part? The labor is nothing. I would take him 5 min to replace it. It would take you 15 min.

You can check the price of replacement sensors here, I've bought from them several times. They are local to me.

www.oxygensensors.com

The OE sensor from Honda is one of the most ridiculously overpriced parts I've ever seen. I believe they price it at like $400 or so.

It is not unusual to need new motor mounts. Go with Honda mounts. If you "upgrade" to any type of performance or track mount you noise and vibration will go way way up.

Again, save the $4-500 and go with the OE clutch. There is no reason to upgrade it unless you are going Fi, because you can't get more than 40-50hp more if you stay NA, and the stock clutch can surely handle that.

There is an Excedy upgrade to the stock clutch (that's who make it) that basically has an extra spring...I'll try to find the model number. Also, many performance clutches have excessive pedal effort that will drive you crazy unless you are a real performance nut.

One thing you should change though is going to AP2 retainers at a minimum. Or going further to upgraded valve springs as well if you track the car. But at least the retainers. Even though you didn't see any cracks, it only takes one missed shift and over rev to f-up your engine big time. I know both Billman and Alex and every other S2k mechanic will agree. They all may have a little differing opinions on how far to go, but they will all agree to do it.


Also, Ballade Sports is another well respected outfit, you can check out some of there prices by going to their web site.

http://www.balladesports.com

Also, you can check out this thread for average costs of repair and maintanence for Evasive Motorsports.

https://www.s2ki.com/...tenance-thread/

They are a well respected place locally.
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I originally bought the car as a project, something to learn mechanics on, and eventually build(turbo and suspension upgrades). Obviously, things haven't worked at as planned, atleast as of yet. As long as this motor isn't trashed, I'd still like to build the car eventually. While I'm having the clutch changed, I might as well upgrade it to take the power I'd like to add later on. That is, if the motor is fine. So I guess I'm gonna go by this afternoon and insist he measure the crank endplay before he orders the clutch parts. If he says the play is in spec, what clutch combo would you guys suggest for reliability/comfortability on a 400ish hp setup? He suggests OEM pilot/throwout bearing and a street/strip aftermarket upgrade. Any input? I'll let you guys know how the crank endplay is, even thought I'll feel like a total dumbass asking for the 3rd time. Guess it's better to feel stupid asking again than to feel stupid with a blown motor that I couldve easily avoided.
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As for the clutch, I can't really give you any specific suggestions, other than that if you are going to drive this car frequently, get a clutch that still has an easy push to the pedal. It's frickin' annoying to have a really hard pedal to push everyday.

Whether it's easy or not just has to do with the way the manufacture designed the lever mechanism. FWIW, I had an ACT clutch in my Integra that was moderate in pedal force, but was absolutley impossible to engage in first without becoming a bucking bronco. I then put in an Excedy performance clutch and it was great.

Call a few well known tuners and ask them. Such as Evasive. Look at their website that I gave you earlier.

davidc1

I don't know if the OEM mounts are adequate for 400hp. However, you can always get other mounts later. If you are gonna build it up, you have to remove the engine anyway, so no real extra labor their, and the cost of other mounts is small compared with the upgrades you are eventually talking about. So, for now at least, I'd go with OEM.

LAp1

From what I've gathered from the search button, people say OEM disc, OEM pilot and throwout bearing, and ACT pressure plate...many people daily drive 400hp cars with this setup and one guy has 600ish hp on the OEM disc. I think I'm going to try to measure the crank endplay myself, seems fairly easy as long as I can replicate what Billman did in that picture. My master cylinder is nearly bone dry, the mechanic said the pressure plate has gotten so hard its putting a strain on the master cylinder and has cracked it. I'm going add fluid in a minute then going run by Autozone to scoop up a Dial test indicator. All I need to do is set it up as Billman has in that picture and have someone engage and disengage the clutch and see how much end play it reads? The bad clutch wouldn't affect this reading?

Billman250

dont bother having anyone push the clutch, you will only get pull in one direction...nothing will spring it back.

just grab the crank pulley by hand, and move it front to back as it sits in the car and watch the dial. It will move quite easy. Make sure car is in neutral.

LAp1

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-...tor-93295.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/multipo...ment-5645.html

ok i bought these two and can't seem to fit them lol any suggestions?

LAp1

i have them together as in the picture. but with the motor in the bay, i don't see any room at all to fit them as pictured

paul2011s2000

Looks to me as if that engine in the picture is not in the car. You'll have to be creative, you might have to cut down the stem attached to the mag mount to get it in there.

Billman250

the gauge can be mounted in 1,000,000,000,000,000,000 different positions

Just stick it on the frame, and put the pointer on the crank.

davidc1

Billman....you guys got Harbor Freight up there? There a place that you can't beat the price of for the disposable tools they sell. I'm not sure if I'd trust them for super precise measurements like this.

LAp1

A buddy and I tried to measure the crank endplay Saturday but before we could get the indicator mounted securely,the rain caught us. I'm gonna give it a go for my lunch break today if I get a chance. I tried just moving the pulley with my hand as Billman said but I, nor my friend could get it to budge. Should I be using something for leverage or should I be able to move it with my hands?