LAp1

Sorry if I dissapointed ya, just trying to do the best with the budget and knowledge I have. Not even sure if I should let Downtown Automotive work on my car now. I'm obviously less mechanically inclined than you and the mechanic at Downtown Auto and it's hard getting caught in the crossfire. It's like I'm trying to learn and teach at the same time. You were kind of my last resort and if my car can't make it to NYC and there is no one local to band-aid it up so I can make it to you so you can fix it properly, then I guess my only option would be is to band-aid the car to the best of my ability and sell it. The mechanic at Downtown wanted me to call him around 2 today with a decision on what clutch I wanted. Should I run to Autozone for lunch and buy a dial test indicator and check the end play myself or?

paul2011s2000

Sorry if I dissapointed ya, just trying to do the best with the budget and knowledge I have. Not even sure if I should let Downtown Automotive work on my car now. I'm obviously less mechanically inclined than you and the mechanic at Downtown Auto and it's hard getting caught in the crossfire. It's like I'm trying to learn and teach at the same time. You were kind of my last resort and if my car can't make it to NYC and there is no one local to band-aid it up so I can make it to you so you can fix it properly, then I guess my only option would be is to band-aid the car to the best of my ability and sell it. The mechanic at Downtown wanted me to call him around 2 today with a decision on what clutch I wanted. Should I run to Autozone for lunch and buy a dial test indicator and check the end play myself or?
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Hmmmm, seems like you're stuck between a rock and a hard place! Remember, you are the customer! Here in the UK, if I ask and am paying someone to do something they usually do it, even if I have to insist a bit.....in a nice way! As I said before, I've never checked the crank float/play before, but it doesn't seem like something that should be difficult for him to check or take him very long. Why not insist (nicely) that he check it, and be there when he does, you'll then learn a bit and be happy it's not a problem(as he's saying), then you keep everyone happy. If you look through Mr Billmans Photos I think there is a picture of a magnetic mounted DTI cleverly mounted on the bottom pulley with the clock measuring off the block. I think this is what this photo is checking, It'll give you some idea anywway.

Try this:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/uploads/g...282_504265.jpg

paul2011s2000

Your Mechanic, at least in part, is saying the same as this isn't he? That sort of suggests, perhaps he knows a bit about what he's talking about, even if the belt comment was stupid!

LAp1

Yes, pretty much what he said...but with all the other problems, its hell for an inexperienced mechanic like myself to pinpoint what noise and shake is coming from what problem. Sometimes the car would slightly respond to the clutch pedal being depressed and sometimes it wouldnt.

Billman250

paul2011s2000

Yes, pretty much what he said...but with all the other problems, its hell for an inexperienced mechanic like myself to pinpoint what noise and shake is coming from what problem. Sometimes the car would slightly respond to the clutch pedal being depressed and sometimes it wouldnt.
[/quote]

If your mechanic is correct with all the problems he's found, I think it was always going to be difficult to get a diagnosis on here because it seems as if you have more than one thing causing an issue. I must admit, I find it hard to believe that all these problems happened at the same time, and think it would pay for you to try and be more in tune with your car, and try and notice/fix things before they escalate out of control like this. Who services your car on a yearly basis? If your doing it yourself, perhaps it would pay to have your mechanic just look over it once anually just to make sure everything is ok. Like yourself I'm an amature mechanic, but I'm of the mind that someone who is interested, willing and keen to learn about their car CAN do as good a job or better than a half hearted mechanic, especially with the help of truly passionate profesionals like Billman.

davidc1

Yes, pretty much what he said...but with all the other problems, its hell for an inexperienced mechanic like myself to pinpoint what noise and shake is coming from what problem. Sometimes the car would slightly respond to the clutch pedal being depressed and sometimes it wouldnt.
[/quote]

If your mechanic is correct with all the problems he's found, I think it was always going to be difficult to get a diagnosis on here because it seems as if you have more than one thing causing an issue. I must admit, I find it hard to believe that all these problems happened at the same time, and think it would pay for you to try and be more in tune with your car, and try and notice/fix things before they escalate out of control like this. Who services your car on a yearly basis? If your doing it yourself, perhaps it would pay to have your mechanic just look over it once anually just to make sure everything is ok. Like yourself I'm an armature mechanic, but I'm of the mind that someone who is interested, willing and keen to learn about their car CAN do as good a job or better than a half hearted mechanic, especially with the help of truly passionate profesionals like Billman.
[/quote]


Man, that's pretty specialized! Not only just working on the alternator, but actually just the armature!

paul2011s2000

Yes, pretty much what he said...but with all the other problems, its hell for an inexperienced mechanic like myself to pinpoint what noise and shake is coming from what problem. Sometimes the car would slightly respond to the clutch pedal being depressed and sometimes it wouldnt.
[/quote]

If your mechanic is correct with all the problems he's found, I think it was always going to be difficult to get a diagnosis on here because it seems as if you have more than one thing causing an issue. I must admit, I find it hard to believe that all these problems happened at the same time, and think it would pay for you to try and be more in tune with your car, and try and notice/fix things before they escalate out of control like this. Who services your car on a yearly basis? If your doing it yourself, perhaps it would pay to have your mechanic just look over it once anually just to make sure everything is ok. Like yourself I'm an armature mechanic, but I'm of the mind that someone who is interested, willing and keen to learn about their car CAN do as good a job or better than a half hearted mechanic, especially with the help of truly passionate profesionals like Billman.
[/quote]


Man, that's pretty specialized! Not only just working on the alternator, but actually just the armature!


[/quote]

Ops! Ha yes very specialized. What I ment was I'm an amature armature mechanic!!

LAp1

OK. went by and picked up my car today after work. first thing i mentioned was the thrust bearings. he said no way, so i asked for an explanation. he barely speaks english but he basically told me that if the thrust bearings were bad then when i push in the clutch it would want to die and i would find wear on the belt from the crank having excessive play.

approx $1200 for the clutch, upgraded to street/strip combo for if i want to do more power later on and price will depend on what brand id want to go with. also he mentioned he'd have to change both motor mounts and will quote me out tomorrow at 2pm. he said he'll change the primary o2 for free since he'll be rite there anyways.

Billman would you just like his number? haha
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Sounds way the hell expensive for the clutch. I think I paid between $700-800 complete for the OEM clutch is usual. He must be quoting you for an expensive aftermarket. All on the forum would agree you do not need anything other than a stock clutch unless you are going to turbo/super charge the car. You can only get an extra 30-40hp or so by modifying the car even spending many thousands on parts and tuning.

Have him check the play on the thrust bearings when he fixes the clutch. Just tell him that several S2000 specialists mechanics (make sure you mention they are mechanics) suggested it.

Changing the O2 sensor is fine, but again, how do you know it's bad? Although it is possible that its responding "slowly" even when no CEL is shown. Many suggest replacing the primary every 100,000 as maintenance. I just did it. When he said he'd change it for "free", does that include the part? The labor is nothing. I would take him 5 min to replace it. It would take you 15 min.

You can check the price of replacement sensors here, I've bought from them several times. They are local to me.

www.oxygensensors.com

The OE sensor from Honda is one of the most ridiculously overpriced parts I've ever seen. I believe they price it at like $400 or so.

It is not unusual to need new motor mounts. Go with Honda mounts. If you "upgrade" to any type of performance or track mount you noise and vibration will go way way up.

Again, save the $4-500 and go with the OE clutch. There is no reason to upgrade it unless you are going Fi, because you can't get more than 40-50hp more if you stay NA, and the stock clutch can surely handle that.

There is an Excedy upgrade to the stock clutch (that's who make it) that basically has an extra spring...I'll try to find the model number. Also, many performance clutches have excessive pedal effort that will drive you crazy unless you are a real performance nut.

One thing you should change though is going to AP2 retainers at a minimum. Or going further to upgraded valve springs as well if you track the car. But at least the retainers. Even though you didn't see any cracks, it only takes one missed shift and over rev to f-up your engine big time. I know both Billman and Alex and every other S2k mechanic will agree. They all may have a little differing opinions on how far to go, but they will all agree to do it.


Also, Ballade Sports is another well respected outfit, you can check out some of there prices by going to their web site.

http://www.balladesports.com

Also, you can check out this thread for average costs of repair and maintanence for Evasive Motorsports.

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/900...enance-thread/

They are a well respected place locally.
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I originally bought the car as a project, something to learn mechanics on, and eventually build(turbo and suspension upgrades). Obviously, things haven't worked at as planned, atleast as of yet. As long as this motor isn't trashed, I'd still like to build the car eventually. While I'm having the clutch changed, I might as well upgrade it to take the power I'd like to add later on. That is, if the motor is fine. So I guess I'm gonna go by this afternoon and insist he measure the crank endplay before he orders the clutch parts. If he says the play is in spec, what clutch combo would you guys suggest for reliability/comfortability on a 400ish hp setup? He suggests OEM pilot/throwout bearing and a street/strip aftermarket upgrade. Any input? I'll let you guys know how the crank endplay is, even thought I'll feel like a total dumbass asking for the 3rd time. Guess it's better to feel stupid asking again than to feel stupid with a blown motor that I couldve easily avoided.

LAp1

Any suggestions on the motor mounts also, OEM right?