LAp1

So have you found a trustworthy mechanic now? Failing that I think it is something you could do yourself, although having said that it isn't something I've ever done before. So if I'm incorrect Mr Billman amongst others will let us know. What I would do is mount a DTI (Dial Test Indicator) somewhere on the radiator end of the engine block, with the needle on the crank pully. Then get someone to push the clutch in and out and watch how much the needle moves, this will tell you how much float you have in the crank. I'm not sure how much is bad, so report back here with the results. Obviously to do this you'll probably need to take out the air box, but you might be able to work around it. Hope this helps.
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OK GUYS...

I called 'Downtown Automotive' this morning, the place I called that argued with me about rev limits on ap1/ap2's etc. I wanted to see what he thought about my symptoms, being that he was the only shop that had agreed to work on my car. So I ran all the symptoms and parts changed by him. He says he's not sure what could be the problem, but seems to think it wouldnt be the thrust bearings. I had him explain why and he said that thrust bearings have tell-tale symptoms, knocking or clicking from bottom end and the motor seems to be in a bind. I told him my motor seems to strain real bad and he said the strain from bad thrust bearings would be extremly noticeable. He said bring the car in and he'll run some diagnostics for 60$, if I want to fix it myself, fine. If I want to have him fix it, he'll waive the diagnostics fee because 'hes interested in finding the problem also'. Seemed more like a good sales pitch instead of a compassionate mechanic, but hey im cool with any discounts!

Think I should have him check out the car?
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This is fairly common practice. He'll try to figure out what it is, and there will be a fee for that. That fee is waived if he fixes it as well. He mentions that because the last thing he wants is for him to find out what's wrong, he tells you, and then you take the car and fix it yourself. He doesn't make much money that way.

If you trust them to know s2000's, then go for it. Even though they may not be S2000 experts.
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I will schedule an appointment with them asap guys, thanks.

LAp1

car went into the mechanic today.

he said its definitely a clutch going out, bad MAP, bad primary o2, and atleast one broken motor mount. he said he only had about 2 hours with it today and will start back on it first thing in the am and will let me know what price options I have, I told him I can definitely handle the MAP and primary o2 but the clutch and motor mount are all his. I already mentioned the thrust bearing issue and he says no but will check once he does the clutch. As far as the horrid squeal from the rear end, not wheel bearings. He says most definitely brake related. He said I'm welcome to try and fix them myself and if I can't he'll hook me up for cheap. Any suggestions and guidance from here on are more than welcome. Billman...

LAp1

Also, just to mention... he was 20 mins late, the outside of his place was filthy and so was the office, and he forgot to get my number before I left. I called all day to give him my number to let me know what he found out, no answer until 3:30, after about 15 calls. I was pretty disappointed until he answered, he explained everything thoroughly and answered all my questions to a T, plus finding out that it isn't anything tragic, atleast as of yet, is a huge relief..oh yea, can't forget about the Dinan M3, turbo 350z and Supra in the garage. Also, I called my buddy this afternoon to update him and he said his dad used to bring his race cars there when he couldn't fix them himself. He has two fully track built e46 M3's and a track built miata. Looks like my car may have ended up in good hands after all, local ones at that, even thought he may not be the most organized.

paul2011s2000

Well it's no surprise you've had no luck getting things sorted on here, you've got a list of problems as long as your arm!) Let us know how it is when it's all done.

Billman250

Listen carfully.

Measure the thrust bearing play before any other work is done.

If its bad, you'll be out a LOT of money...for nothing!

LAp1

Going by the mechanic today, will make sure he checks it. Thanks

davidc1

The primary O2 sensor and MAP sensor are pieces of cake. Ask how he figured out those are bad. BTW, you did check for engine codes in the past didn't you?

LAp1

OK. went by and picked up my car today after work. first thing i mentioned was the thrust bearings. he said no way, so i asked for an explanation. he barely speaks english but he basically told me that if the thrust bearings were bad then when i push in the clutch it would want to die and i would find wear on the belt from the crank having excessive play.

approx $1200 for the clutch, upgraded to street/strip combo for if i want to do more power later on and price will depend on what brand id want to go with. also he mentioned he'd have to change both motor mounts and will quote me out tomorrow at 2pm. he said he'll change the primary o2 for free since he'll be rite there anyways.

Billman would you just like his number? haha

davidc1

OK. went by and picked up my car today after work. first thing i mentioned was the thrust bearings. he said no way, so i asked for an explanation. he barely speaks english but he basically told me that if the thrust bearings were bad then when i push in the clutch it would want to die and i would find wear on the belt from the crank having excessive play.

approx $1200 for the clutch, upgraded to street/strip combo for if i want to do more power later on and price will depend on what brand id want to go with. also he mentioned he'd have to change both motor mounts and will quote me out tomorrow at 2pm. he said he'll change the primary o2 for free since he'll be rite there anyways.

Billman would you just like his number? haha
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Sounds way the hell expensive for the clutch. I think I paid between $700-800 complete for the OEM clutch is usual. He must be quoting you for an expensive aftermarket. All on the forum would agree you do not need anything other than a stock clutch unless you are going to turbo/super charge the car. You can only get an extra 30-40hp or so by modifying the car even spending many thousands on parts and tuning.

Have him check the play on the thrust bearings when he fixes the clutch. Just tell him that several S2000 specialists mechanics (make sure you mention they are mechanics) suggested it.

Changing the O2 sensor is fine, but again, how do you know it's bad? Although it is possible that its responding "slowly" even when no CEL is shown. Many suggest replacing the primary every 100,000 as maintenance. I just did it. When he said he'd change it for "free", does that include the part? The labor is nothing. I would take him 5 min to replace it. It would take you 15 min.

You can check the price of replacement sensors here, I've bought from them several times. They are local to me.

www.oxygensensors.com

The OE sensor from Honda is one of the most ridiculously overpriced parts I've ever seen. I believe they price it at like $400 or so.

It is not unusual to need new motor mounts. Go with Honda mounts. If you "upgrade" to any type of performance or track mount you noise and vibration will go way way up.

Again, save the $4-500 and go with the OE clutch. There is no reason to upgrade it unless you are going Fi, because you can't get more than 40-50hp more if you stay NA, and the stock clutch can surely handle that.

There is an Excedy upgrade to the stock clutch (that's who make it) that basically has an extra spring...I'll try to find the model number. Also, many performance clutches have excessive pedal effort that will drive you crazy unless you are a real performance nut.

One thing you should change though is going to AP2 retainers at a minimum. Or going further to upgraded valve springs as well if you track the car. But at least the retainers. Even though you didn't see any cracks, it only takes one missed shift and over rev to f-up your engine big time. I know both Billman and Alex and every other S2k mechanic will agree. They all may have a little differing opinions on how far to go, but they will all agree to do it.


Also, Ballade Sports is another well respected outfit, you can check out some of there prices by going to their web site.

http://www.balladesports.com

Also, you can check out this thread for average costs of repair and maintanence for Evasive Motorsports.

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/900...enance-thread/

They are a well respected place locally.

Billman250

WEAR ON THE BELT!!!???!??

This guy is 100% incompetent.

I cant say it any clearer...if you do a clutch without measuring the thrust you will be sorry. You'll have a new clutch in a crappy running car.

This whole thing is pathetic. I'm not posting for nothing. I have seen your exact symptoms in an s2k, and anyone who has a different opinion is stupid and lazy. I'm done. Good luck.