AP1 - Koni Yellows Installed already - Want to DIY TEIN S TECH - help?
12-27-2017, 12:48 AM
#11
Thread Starter
OK guys thanks for all the responses. Very helpful. Started on the rear left side and removed the shock already. Put the new spring on and aligned the shock in its mount but now we are having a hard time aligning the lower bolt holes. Disconnected lower sway bar link but found that the bump stop is contacting the sway bar preventing us from aligning the shocks lower mounting holes with the LCA. I tried standing on the hub to apply weight but it doesn't move much (I'm not a large guy) lol.
12-27-2017, 12:50 AM
#12
Thread Starter
1.) Its very important to clock all the bushings. To simulate ride height, you can jack up the LCA while the car is still in the air. I do it thusly: If your current (stock) ride height is 14.75" hub to fender (measure to be sure), then with the 1" ride height drop tein springs installed, it will be 13.75". Jack up the LCA til the hub reaches the 13.75" distance. Then tighten. Easy peasy.
2.) A 1" drop will have you sitting on the bumpstop already. So I wouldn't use the lower perch. The springs shouldn't settle much, if at all.
3.) WD40 is for rusted bolts...not really for tight ones. I avoid using it around rubber bushings. Try removing the bolts first. Has the car been driven in road salt?
4.) Remove the rear strut bar instead
. I don't remove anything...but I got these skinny Dhalsim arms.
5.) They're 17mm. They're jam nuts. Remove 1 at a time. Jam them together to tighten them when you're done. Don't use an impact.
6.) Its easy AF.
7.) Detach your sway bar links. Loosen all the bushings so the suspension goes into droop. You need to loosen them to clock them anyway. Don't fight the sway bar or bushings. Also don't use an impact on the sway bar links.
Bushings you need to clock:
Front:
-UCA to chassis.
-LCA to subframe
-LCA to shock.
Rear:
-LCA to subframe (2 places on each arm).
-Toe arm to subframe.
-UCA to subframe
-LCA to shock.
Mark all the alignment adjusters (before loosening them) with a paint crayon or paint marker.
2.) A 1" drop will have you sitting on the bumpstop already. So I wouldn't use the lower perch. The springs shouldn't settle much, if at all.
3.) WD40 is for rusted bolts...not really for tight ones. I avoid using it around rubber bushings. Try removing the bolts first. Has the car been driven in road salt?
4.) Remove the rear strut bar instead
. I don't remove anything...but I got these skinny Dhalsim arms.5.) They're 17mm. They're jam nuts. Remove 1 at a time. Jam them together to tighten them when you're done. Don't use an impact.
6.) Its easy AF.
7.) Detach your sway bar links. Loosen all the bushings so the suspension goes into droop. You need to loosen them to clock them anyway. Don't fight the sway bar or bushings. Also don't use an impact on the sway bar links.
Bushings you need to clock:
Front:
-UCA to chassis.
-LCA to subframe
-LCA to shock.
Rear:
-LCA to subframe (2 places on each arm).
-Toe arm to subframe.
-UCA to subframe
-LCA to shock.
Mark all the alignment adjusters (before loosening them) with a paint crayon or paint marker.
12-27-2017, 12:54 AM
#13
Thread Starter
Ok, great!
What made me concerned is anyone that has worked on cars for any length of time would know there are way better penetrating oils than wd-40. They'd also not have to ask if it was safe to spray on these bolts.
More than that though is I can't imagine anyone asking if they can remove two nuts at the same time with one socket wrench.
What made me concerned is anyone that has worked on cars for any length of time would know there are way better penetrating oils than wd-40. They'd also not have to ask if it was safe to spray on these bolts.
More than that though is I can't imagine anyone asking if they can remove two nuts at the same time with one socket wrench.
12-27-2017, 03:31 AM
#14
Stock springs on konis don't really need a spring compressor to remove. Loosen the top nut but don't remove it all the way then loosen the lower one up to the top one, by the time you get to the end of the threads the spring will have been rendered mostly harmless.
Don't need a compressor for installation either.
Stock springs with 0 load on the spring, the top hat just clears the shock rod threads on the Koni, I just hold the shock between my legs, push the spring with one hand until enough threads are exposed to put the lower nut on.
Don't need a compressor for installation either.
Stock springs with 0 load on the spring, the top hat just clears the shock rod threads on the Koni, I just hold the shock between my legs, push the spring with one hand until enough threads are exposed to put the lower nut on.
12-27-2017, 06:50 AM
#15
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Removing any one of the four possible nuts related to the sway bar links and then slipping the link out of the eyelet will render the bar useless.
So...unless the link or bar is hanging up on something, there is no need to remove more than 1 of the swaybar nuts per sway bar.
If youve disconnected the sway bar and are still having trouble pushing the arms down...you're fighting the very stiff bushings.
Loosen the bushing bolts that I listed for clocking. The arms will droop down and it will be easy to line things up.
There's no extra work....as you'd need to loosen those bolts anyway so you can re-clock the bushing.
12-27-2017, 10:55 AM
#16
Thread Starter
Stock springs on konis don't really need a spring compressor to remove. Loosen the top nut but don't remove it all the way then loosen the lower one up to the top one, by the time you get to the end of the threads the spring will have been rendered mostly harmless.
Don't need a compressor for installation either.
Stock springs with 0 load on the spring, the top hat just clears the shock rod threads on the Koni, I just hold the shock between my legs, push the spring with one hand until enough threads are exposed to put the lower nut on.
Don't need a compressor for installation either.
Stock springs with 0 load on the spring, the top hat just clears the shock rod threads on the Koni, I just hold the shock between my legs, push the spring with one hand until enough threads are exposed to put the lower nut on.
12-27-2017, 10:59 AM
#17
Thread Starter
I am very pleased to report that springs install went very well!! Job done! She's sitting low AF and looking really hot 
There was a point where we had to loosen the sway bar links for the rear to get the shocks to align again. There was quite a bit of fighting to do with tension in various places including the front right which was a bit hard. I stood on the hub to push it down enough for my friend to get the lower bolt in. I had to try to increase my mass somehow because I'm too light (which is a good thing) for the pressure required lol. I'll post some pics up soon. Tomorrow actually. 9:58pm here. just over 6 hours to get the job done. Feeling sore and will probably feel more sore come the 'morrow.
Thanks for all the help fellow my S2K owners
There was a point where we had to loosen the sway bar links for the rear to get the shocks to align again. There was quite a bit of fighting to do with tension in various places including the front right which was a bit hard. I stood on the hub to push it down enough for my friend to get the lower bolt in. I had to try to increase my mass somehow because I'm too light (which is a good thing) for the pressure required lol. I'll post some pics up soon. Tomorrow actually. 9:58pm here. just over 6 hours to get the job done. Feeling sore and will probably feel more sore come the 'morrow.
Thanks for all the help fellow my S2K owners
12-27-2017, 11:02 AM
#18
Thread Starter
Removing any one of the four possible nuts related to the sway bar links and then slipping the link out of the eyelet will render the bar useless.
So...unless the link or bar is hanging up on something, there is no need to remove more than 1 of the swaybar nuts per sway bar.
If youve disconnected the sway bar and are still having trouble pushing the arms down...you're fighting the very stiff bushings.
Loosen the bushing bolts that I listed for clocking. The arms will droop down and it will be easy to line things up.
There's no extra work....as you'd need to loosen those bolts anyway so you can re-clock the bushing.
So...unless the link or bar is hanging up on something, there is no need to remove more than 1 of the swaybar nuts per sway bar.
If youve disconnected the sway bar and are still having trouble pushing the arms down...you're fighting the very stiff bushings.
Loosen the bushing bolts that I listed for clocking. The arms will droop down and it will be easy to line things up.
There's no extra work....as you'd need to loosen those bolts anyway so you can re-clock the bushing.
Everything's all bolted back up now and not a drop of WD40 or (common here) Q20 needed. My buddy used some copper spray on some of the bolts just because they looked slightly rusty but in no way were they in bad shape/cause for concern.
12-27-2017, 03:17 PM
#19
Make sure to recheck any sway link nut you removed and reinstalled. They have a nasty habit of working themselves loose, the manual even says to drive the car and re tighten them.
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12-27-2017, 03:51 PM
#20
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