RolanTHUNDER

Hi guys!
(I hope this is the correct place for this thread)

Koni Yellows are already installed on my '00 AP1. They were there when I bought the car so I scored. Stock springs are still there so I decided its time for an upgrade and I want a lower stance. Got brand new Tein S Tech 1" springs ready to go. Quick questions:

1. I read one post that said "you must not tighten all the bolts until the car is on the ground". Is this true and if so why?
2. Will the car really be too low if I lower the perch to the second/lowest setting? Should I rather wait for the springs to settle on the higher perch before deciding to lower the perch?
3. If the bolts are tight will using WD40 be safe?
4. Does the fuel nozzle have to be detached or can that particular shock be removed without doing this step?
5. I noticed that the Koni shocks have two nuts on the top hat. They seem to be larger than 14mm. Is it possible to remove both nuts with one socket or must I remove one nut at a time?
6. Rob Choo made it look easy - will it be this easy to remove the shocks?
Is there anything else I need to be concerned with or should know before diving into this job? I don't have a lift for the car, only a jack and two axle stands. Any and all advice is welcome and appreciated!

Billman250

1. 4 lower shock bolts, and 4 upper a-arm mounts are the only rubber-bushings-in-torsion during the job, so only these apply (car must be on ground before tightening

2. I would start with the high perch

3. WD40 is ok

4. No. You can sneak in there and remove the top nuts, no fuel pipe disassembly needed

5. One at a time

RolanTHUNDER

Thanks for the quick reply Billman!

For the bushings you mentioned like the upper a-arms, how will I get into that tight space with the car on the ground to tighten them (assuming the wheels have to be on before I lower the car from the jack to the ground)?

hoobastnk90

With the car on a jack stand you can use your jack to lift the control arm which will pre load the bushings.

Car Analogy

Honestly, from the sound of things, you're going to want to find someone that knows how to work on cars help you with this. It seems beyond your current abilities.

Lots of good replies here, but worried you aren't able to fully understand what they're telling you.

RolanTHUNDER

excellent. That's what I was thinking. A friend will bring his Jack around so I'll have one to lift the control arms. Thanks.

RolanTHUNDER

i am comfortable enough DIY'ng like this and I do understand what they're telling me. A friend is going to come around to help me and that seems like how most people do it instead of solo. I'm just a very cautious person especially when it comes to something I'm passionate about which makes me ask a lot of questions before diving in to any job. The only thing I didn't fully understand at first was pre loading the suspension but now I do thanks to the above.

Car Analogy

Ok, great!

What made me concerned is anyone that has worked on cars for any length of time would know there are way better penetrating oils than wd-40. They'd also not have to ask if it was safe to spray on these bolts.

More than that though is I can't imagine anyone asking if they can remove two nuts at the same time with one socket wrench.

HarryD

We all started somewhere. Here are some more resources for your homework:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...w-pics-477286/
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...oughts-978146/
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...rs-diy-441565/

Adding some more points:

• If you borrow the [free] Autozone spring compressor tool, be super careful with it -- a failure or mistake can kill someone -- be careful and double check each step
• You got the preload suspension part covered above
• Here's what's better than WD40: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-bolts.773380/

Personally I'm not a fan of changing lowering/changing suspension geometry like this, but to each his own. Good luck!

B serious

1.) Its very important to clock all the bushings. To simulate ride height, you can jack up the LCA while the car is still in the air. I do it thusly: If your current (stock) ride height is 14.75" hub to fender (measure to be sure), then with the 1" ride height drop tein springs installed, it will be 13.75". Jack up the LCA til the hub reaches the 13.75" distance. Then tighten. Easy peasy.

2.) A 1" drop will have you sitting on the bumpstop already. So I wouldn't use the lower perch. The springs shouldn't settle much, if at all.

3.) WD40 is for rusted bolts...not really for tight ones. I avoid using it around rubber bushings. Try removing the bolts first. Has the car been driven in road salt?

4.) Remove the rear strut bar instead . I don't remove anything...but I got these skinny Dhalsim arms.

5.) They're 17mm. They're jam nuts. Remove 1 at a time. Jam them together to tighten them when you're done. Don't use an impact.

6.) Its easy AF.

7.) Detach your sway bar links. Loosen all the bushings so the suspension goes into droop. You need to loosen them to clock them anyway. Don't fight the sway bar or bushings. Also don't use an impact on the sway bar links.

Bushings you need to clock:
Front:
-UCA to chassis.
-LCA to subframe
-LCA to shock.

Rear:
-LCA to subframe (2 places on each arm).
-Toe arm to subframe.
-UCA to subframe
-LCA to shock.

Mark all the alignment adjusters (before loosening them) with a paint crayon or paint marker.