S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Ap1 drinking oil

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Old 11-11-2016, 03:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Billman250
There are plenty of AP1s that use no oil during regular use.
And mine is one. I'm the original owner of a 2003. It has been autocrossed hard for 11 of its 13 years and has 70k miles on it. I use 10W-30 synthetic and change it once a year at 5K-6K miles. I rarely add a quart in that many miles and it is to replace what has been caught in the catch can. I believe one of the reasons mine does not "burn" oil is how I broke it in. I varied the revs constantly and did a fair amount of engine braking during the first 600 miles. I used an engine break-in oil additive with high moly count at the second oil change. I did this mainly because I changed the original fill early at 700 miles when I put the car away for the winter.
Old 11-11-2016, 04:06 AM
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Mine will use oil on the track and dragon. Uses none in 5k miles of normal driving. Also orginal owner who paid particular attention to break in. TYPICALLY AP1s will use oil over AP2, but it comes down to break-in and maintenance. There is no reliability difference in ap1 to ap2.

Every S2000 engine I build gets a motoman break-in in its first 2 miles. Google it.
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Old 11-14-2016, 01:03 AM
  #43  
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Honda started using a torque plate when boring/honing the AP2 blocks much to the dismay of AP1 fanboys everywhere.
Old 11-14-2016, 01:11 AM
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I have come to a conclusion of your car passes the compression test but burns oil like mine I think it's fine
Old 11-14-2016, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by shind3
Honda started using a torque plate when boring/honing the AP2 blocks much to the dismay of AP1 fanboys everywhere.
You said this several times. Is there any constructive point that you're making, though?
Old 11-14-2016, 08:19 AM
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It's his way of justifying not doing any work on his car despite his acknowledgement that oil consumption is an issue. Decent point, don't hate, many people do the same thing. I try to put off doing work on my car as much as possible. I rode on a slipping clutch for almost a year, took me two years to re-seal my oil pan, I looked for the cheapest way to fix my TCT out of sheer laziness. I kept bad bushings on the car for a while until replacing tires and alignment issues got on my nerves. My car burns oil, engine is good, spark plugs aren't fouled, I'm working on a fix(building an engine) but I'm not rushing it, current engine can probably go another 100k miles as is.

Doing work for other people or in a professional capacity is different, I like to please, and to make things better, plus money is involved, there's actual motivation to get things done right away.

Last edited by Slowcrash_101; 11-14-2016 at 08:21 AM.
Old 11-14-2016, 08:39 AM
  #47  

 
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Originally Posted by B serious
You said this several times. Is there any constructive point that you're making, though?
Oh, he's pointing something out, all right, just not what he is intending.
Old 11-14-2016, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by SheDrivesIt
Oh, he's pointing something out, all right, just not what he is intending.
That comment made my night.
Old 11-15-2016, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by shind3
Your bores are out of the service limit in terms of roundness. When a bore is ovalized (like all your lovely AP1 blocks), it wears more quickly and gets worse faster.
Originally Posted by shind3
Honda started using a torque plate when boring/honing the AP2 blocks much to the dismay of AP1 fanboys everywhere.
I guess you can lead a horse to water...

For those that still don't get it, please do a web search on why torque plates are used during a bore/hone process.
Old 11-15-2016, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by shind3
I guess you can lead a horse to water...

For those that still don't get it, please do a web search on why torque plates are used during a bore/hone process.

Ok...so what is your advice to the OP?


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