Ap1 drinking oil
11-02-2016, 01:48 PM
#11
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
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You're doing research on this like you're trying to determine what oil to use in the space shuttle.
You've been asking the same question in like 80 threads.
Try whatever brand oil you want. See if it helps. If it doesn't, try another.
You've been asking the same question in like 80 threads.
Try whatever brand oil you want. See if it helps. If it doesn't, try another.
11-02-2016, 02:47 PM
#13
Registered User
assuming the engine is fine...the oil is getting past the rings.
my 2003 ap1 has experienced a gradual and linear oil consumption from 1 quart every 2,000 miles when new to 1 quart every 300 miles now with 207,000 miles.
i've tried every proposed fix there is, including trying all sorts of oils that people claim have helped. pcv valves, ap2 and supra, breather filter, ap2 valve cover, catch can.
the ONLY thing that stopped the consumption was krank vents, however, the clucking noise was intolerable. this ONE thing that stopped the consumption is THE clue as to what is causing the consumption, and that would be that it's getting past the rings.
there's not much you can do if oil is getting past the rings.
my 2003 ap1 has experienced a gradual and linear oil consumption from 1 quart every 2,000 miles when new to 1 quart every 300 miles now with 207,000 miles.
i've tried every proposed fix there is, including trying all sorts of oils that people claim have helped. pcv valves, ap2 and supra, breather filter, ap2 valve cover, catch can.
the ONLY thing that stopped the consumption was krank vents, however, the clucking noise was intolerable. this ONE thing that stopped the consumption is THE clue as to what is causing the consumption, and that would be that it's getting past the rings.
there's not much you can do if oil is getting past the rings.
The following users liked this post:
solitarycheese (11-02-2016)
11-02-2016, 03:44 PM
#14
Motor Oil Viscosity Grades Explained in Layman's Terms
11-02-2016, 03:57 PM
#15
Registered User
I too have an AP1 with heavy oil consumption, hovering around 800-1700 miles per quart depending on how it's driven. I know how to check and add oil and I've learned to live with it.
My only real concern is the potential damage being done to the catalytic converter. I feel like preemptively tearing apart my engine to change valve and/or piston seals would be a waste, at the same time, I'm afraid I may be killing my cat and other emissions components.
My only real concern is the potential damage being done to the catalytic converter. I feel like preemptively tearing apart my engine to change valve and/or piston seals would be a waste, at the same time, I'm afraid I may be killing my cat and other emissions components.
11-03-2016, 02:50 AM
#17
There's a good series of articles by Bob's The Oil Guy (or similar -- someone will post a link) which explains how engine oil works and the need for a multi-viscosity oil. One sentence summary is all single weight engine oil is too thick when the engine is cold or too thin at operating temperatures. The synthetics can be better at this due to their chemistry. Good reading and the source for your decisions.
The so-called engineers who designed this engine and specified 10W-30 oil were, of course, idiots...
-- Chuck
The so-called engineers who designed this engine and specified 10W-30 oil were, of course, idiots...
-- Chuck
11-03-2016, 04:27 AM
#18
There's a good series of articles by Bob's The Oil Guy (or similar -- someone will post a link) which explains how engine oil works and the need for a multi-viscosity oil. One sentence summary is all single weight engine oil is too thick when the engine is cold or too thin at operating temperatures. The synthetics can be better at this due to their chemistry. Good reading and the source for your decisions.
The so-called engineers who designed this engine and specified 10W-30 oil were, of course, idiots...
-- Chuck
The so-called engineers who designed this engine and specified 10W-30 oil were, of course, idiots...
-- Chuck
https://bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
11-03-2016, 04:51 AM
#19
I too have an AP1 with heavy oil consumption, hovering around 800-1700 miles per quart depending on how it's driven. I know how to check and add oil and I've learned to live with it.
My only real concern is the potential damage being done to the catalytic converter. I feel like preemptively tearing apart my engine to change valve and/or piston seals would be a waste, at the same time, I'm afraid I may be killing my cat and other emissions components.
My only real concern is the potential damage being done to the catalytic converter. I feel like preemptively tearing apart my engine to change valve and/or piston seals would be a waste, at the same time, I'm afraid I may be killing my cat and other emissions components.
ROD
11-03-2016, 07:05 AM
#20
There's a good series of articles by Bob's The Oil Guy (or similar -- someone will post a link) which explains how engine oil works and the need for a multi-viscosity oil. One sentence summary is all single weight engine oil is too thick when the engine is cold or too thin at operating temperatures. The synthetics can be better at this due to their chemistry. Good reading and the source for your decisions.
The so-called engineers who designed this engine and specified 10W-30 oil were, of course, idiots...
-- Chuck
The so-called engineers who designed this engine and specified 10W-30 oil were, of course, idiots...
-- Chuck