AP1 burns oil, but how much is acceptable?
12-28-2010, 08:55 PM
#21
Originally Posted by busbus,Dec 28 2010, 06:42 PM
Thanks for all the suggestion. My car has 60K miles. I think the first intervals was using Mobile1 synthetic 5W30 which is lower than the spec 10W30 as I found out later. I haven't checked oil at all during first interval as I don't know s2000 maintenance. Now I am sure checking it like every gas fillup. I would look up the pcv suggestion too.
For those that suggest to rebuild the engine, is the engine going to get worse if I don't rebuild it? It's too expensive for me to rebuild the engine and I would rather let go of this fun car.
For those that suggest to rebuild the engine, is the engine going to get worse if I don't rebuild it? It's too expensive for me to rebuild the engine and I would rather let go of this fun car.
You have a very cool car that can bring some good times, dont pass up this one with out checking every possible aspect. You'll never find a car like it...
12-29-2010, 12:01 AM
#22
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Get a compression test done on the motor, before you do anything drastic such as selling the car or rebuilding the motor. Some people here seem to be jumping the gun. 2 quarts low does not automatically mean engine failure. Get it checked out by a competent mechanic who is familiar with the S2000.
I would also recommend trying a different oil besides Mobile 1, because my car burns through it quicker than other brands. Try some Valvoline Maxlife, or Castrol Syntec. My car does not burn through those oils as easily and they are readily available.
I would also recommend trying a different oil besides Mobile 1, because my car burns through it quicker than other brands. Try some Valvoline Maxlife, or Castrol Syntec. My car does not burn through those oils as easily and they are readily available.
12-29-2010, 12:42 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by bigbombula,Dec 29 2010, 01:01 AM
Some people here seem to be jumping the gun. 2 quarts low does not automatically mean engine failure.
12-29-2010, 01:10 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by CBRdream21,Dec 29 2010, 01:42 AM
Not sure how you came up with two quarts low, he said he added 4.5 quarts to get it back to full. That means he had 0.6 quarts left in the engine. I would say it is very unlikely that there is no damage from this. I don't even think it's possible that he maintained adequate oil pressure with this amount.
In that case good luck with the engine.
12-29-2010, 03:46 AM
#26
Originally Posted by JFUSION,Dec 28 2010, 10:35 PM
I'm not so sure you are burning excessive oil, so don't panic just yet. What part of the country do you live in ?, it would be good to know the climate you drive in mostly.
If it was my car I'd run a couple short runs of a high mileage 10w30 oil, something like Valvoline, Castrol, Penzoil, they all have a high mileage oil in their lineup. I would run a couple of short runs for 2000 miles each, you could probably get away without changing the oil filter between the runs to reduce costs. The high mileage oil will clean up the engine, as you don't know how it was treated in the past, and it helps to treat the engine seals, which can help to reduce oil seepage. Also check or replace the pcv valve. After the two cleaning runs, if you can afford to run Amsoil try their 10w30 weight and see how it goes. You might also consider Castrol 0w30 German made Syntec, or any good quality conventional oil such as Penzoil, Havoline, Castrol to name a few in 10w30 weights.
Start measuring the oil consumption regularly and track the miles as accurately as you can. If you use up to 1 quart per 1000 miles you will be in the acceptable range, and nothing is really wrong with your engine. If you approach 1.5 - 2 quarts per 1000 miles you might be in the poor consumption range and you'll have to make a decision at that time. It doesn't mean your consumption will continue to get worse and it doesn't mean your engine will suffer due to it. You could drive it like that for many years without issues. I don't think you will get that bad though based on your last measurement.
* Note: Please keep in mind that there is a built in error reading on all S2K oil dipsticks. One side of the dipstick will always read lower than the other side, by about 2x or more. Always go by the lower reading on the dipstick, always check both sides for the reading and go by the lower reading as it will be the more accurate level every time. The dipstick error may explain some of your earlier issues if you weren't reading it correctly.
good luck.
If it was my car I'd run a couple short runs of a high mileage 10w30 oil, something like Valvoline, Castrol, Penzoil, they all have a high mileage oil in their lineup. I would run a couple of short runs for 2000 miles each, you could probably get away without changing the oil filter between the runs to reduce costs. The high mileage oil will clean up the engine, as you don't know how it was treated in the past, and it helps to treat the engine seals, which can help to reduce oil seepage. Also check or replace the pcv valve. After the two cleaning runs, if you can afford to run Amsoil try their 10w30 weight and see how it goes. You might also consider Castrol 0w30 German made Syntec, or any good quality conventional oil such as Penzoil, Havoline, Castrol to name a few in 10w30 weights.
Start measuring the oil consumption regularly and track the miles as accurately as you can. If you use up to 1 quart per 1000 miles you will be in the acceptable range, and nothing is really wrong with your engine. If you approach 1.5 - 2 quarts per 1000 miles you might be in the poor consumption range and you'll have to make a decision at that time. It doesn't mean your consumption will continue to get worse and it doesn't mean your engine will suffer due to it. You could drive it like that for many years without issues. I don't think you will get that bad though based on your last measurement.
* Note: Please keep in mind that there is a built in error reading on all S2K oil dipsticks. One side of the dipstick will always read lower than the other side, by about 2x or more. Always go by the lower reading on the dipstick, always check both sides for the reading and go by the lower reading as it will be the more accurate level every time. The dipstick error may explain some of your earlier issues if you weren't reading it correctly.
good luck.
12-29-2010, 03:51 AM
#27
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^very true.
The lower reading is the actual, the higher reading is oil wiped off of the dipstick tube.
I always read the stick 3 times or more, reading only the lowest of the three readings (x2) combined.
The lower reading is the actual, the higher reading is oil wiped off of the dipstick tube.
I always read the stick 3 times or more, reading only the lowest of the three readings (x2) combined.
12-29-2010, 06:22 AM
#29
Originally Posted by ikeyballz,Dec 29 2010, 08:51 AM
^very true.
The lower reading is the actual, the higher reading is oil wiped off of the dipstick tube.
I always read the stick 3 times or more, reading only the lowest of the three readings (x2) combined.
The lower reading is the actual, the higher reading is oil wiped off of the dipstick tube.
I always read the stick 3 times or more, reading only the lowest of the three readings (x2) combined.
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12-29-2010, 06:36 AM
#30
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i also thought that my S is burning oil.
after following up it turned out that oil level was sometimes steady after hard driving, sometimes droping even after 50 pretty relaxed miles on highway.
probably mostly escapes through PCV valve.
after following up it turned out that oil level was sometimes steady after hard driving, sometimes droping even after 50 pretty relaxed miles on highway.
probably mostly escapes through PCV valve.