Anyone running Mobil 1 0W-40 in their S2000?
#11
Originally Posted by amirite,Feb 28 2009, 02:11 PM
I just emailed the guy that wrote up the articles on carbibles.com and he told me that it there's a chance it might not reach operating viscosity quickly enough, which would result in low oil pressure. There's a very small chance it would do any damage, but in my climate (VA) it would be pointless to use a 0W oil and he's probably right. Where was your car originally sold? I think what the manual recommends really might depend on the intended market's climate.
Don't get to caught up in all the oil BS you will be fine running any good oil.
Swiftoy
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Originally Posted by amirite,Feb 28 2009, 03:00 PM
I'm doing a shitload of reading on this subject and the more I read, the more it seems that very few people know what they're talking about so I'm getting pretty paranoid. Most of what I've read is consistent with what you said. When I buy an S2K I plan on using Mobil 1 10W-30.
Could you please explain why it's not good to use a fully synthetic oil before the ~10,000 mile mark on an S2K (or any other car for that matter)? I understand that it has to do with break-in, but what is it about that oil that helps the process? Does this mean that the oil shouldn't be replaced at all before that period or what?
Could you please explain why it's not good to use a fully synthetic oil before the ~10,000 mile mark on an S2K (or any other car for that matter)? I understand that it has to do with break-in, but what is it about that oil that helps the process? Does this mean that the oil shouldn't be replaced at all before that period or what?
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"Don't run synthetic during break-in" is an old way of thinking. Parts are machined much better these days. A lot of cars have factory synth fill now.
The thinking was that you want some friction during break-in so everything finds its happy operating state, and synthetic would prevent or slow that. But it's an outdated idea.
The thinking was that you want some friction during break-in so everything finds its happy operating state, and synthetic would prevent or slow that. But it's an outdated idea.
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Originally Posted by dparm,Feb 28 2009, 10:37 PM
The thinking was that you want some friction during break-in so everything finds its happy operating state, and synthetic would prevent or slow that. But it's an outdated idea.
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http://www.stealth316.com/2-breakin.htm
also http://www.allsyntheticsgroup.com/break-in.html
Many readers have questioned us on engine break-in procedures when using synthetic oil. Conventional wisdom has it that a new or freshly rebuilt engine should be broken in using mineral oil, then, once enough mileage has accumulated to ensure rings and cylinder walls have lapped themselves into harmony, synthetic oil can be used.
Readers have correctly pointed out that several major brands come from the factory with synthetic oil, among these being Corvette, Mercedes-Benz and Viper. How can these engines break-in if run on synthetic oil from day one, they ask?
To find out, we spoke with Mobil and Redline Oil companies for their take on the synthetic break-in question. Mobil's response was that engines break-in just fine on synthetics, and that any wear point in the engine significant enough to be an interference, and thus susceptible to rapid wear, would be a wear point no matter what lubricant is used.
Redline, on the other hand, has found it best to recommend a mineral oil break-in. Occasionally an engine will glaze its cylinder walls when initially run on Redline, they say, so by using a mineral oil for 2000 miles, verifying there is no oil consumption and then switching to the synthetic, glazing is eliminated.
Cylinder-wall glazing is not a deposit left on the cylinder wall, but rather a displacement of cylinder-wall metal. This happens when the high spots of the cylinder wall crosshatch are not cut or worn off by the piston rings, but rather rolled over into the valleys or grooves of the crosshatch. This leaves a surface that oil adheres to poorly, against which the rings cannot seal well. Compression is lost and oil consumed, and the only cure is to tear down the engine to physically restore the cylinder-wall finish by honing.
Why is glazing not a problem for the major manufacturers? Because they have complete, accurate control over their cylinder-wall finish and ring type. Redline deals with a huge variety of engines and manufacturers, both OEM and from the aftermarket. Cylinder-wall finish and ring type thus vary greatly, and glazing can therefore occur, albeit rarely.
While we were at it, we queried about synthetic oil-change intervals. Mobil says to use the maximum change interval specified by the engine manufacturer, regardless of oil type. Redline said that once past an OEM warranty, anywhere from 10,000 to 18,000 miles, or one year, whichever comes first, is appropriate depending on conditions (dust, short trips). They also recommend changing just the oil filter at 6000 to 7000 miles as a precaution against overloading the filter. Redline further noted a caution when using synthetics with leaded fuels, as synthetics do not hold lead in suspension as well as mineral oil. Aviation is one area where leaded fuel is still widespread, and avgas is often used by off-road and racing enthusiasts, so a relatively short oil change interval may thus be indicated.
Readers have correctly pointed out that several major brands come from the factory with synthetic oil, among these being Corvette, Mercedes-Benz and Viper. How can these engines break-in if run on synthetic oil from day one, they ask?
To find out, we spoke with Mobil and Redline Oil companies for their take on the synthetic break-in question. Mobil's response was that engines break-in just fine on synthetics, and that any wear point in the engine significant enough to be an interference, and thus susceptible to rapid wear, would be a wear point no matter what lubricant is used.
Redline, on the other hand, has found it best to recommend a mineral oil break-in. Occasionally an engine will glaze its cylinder walls when initially run on Redline, they say, so by using a mineral oil for 2000 miles, verifying there is no oil consumption and then switching to the synthetic, glazing is eliminated.
Cylinder-wall glazing is not a deposit left on the cylinder wall, but rather a displacement of cylinder-wall metal. This happens when the high spots of the cylinder wall crosshatch are not cut or worn off by the piston rings, but rather rolled over into the valleys or grooves of the crosshatch. This leaves a surface that oil adheres to poorly, against which the rings cannot seal well. Compression is lost and oil consumed, and the only cure is to tear down the engine to physically restore the cylinder-wall finish by honing.
Why is glazing not a problem for the major manufacturers? Because they have complete, accurate control over their cylinder-wall finish and ring type. Redline deals with a huge variety of engines and manufacturers, both OEM and from the aftermarket. Cylinder-wall finish and ring type thus vary greatly, and glazing can therefore occur, albeit rarely.
While we were at it, we queried about synthetic oil-change intervals. Mobil says to use the maximum change interval specified by the engine manufacturer, regardless of oil type. Redline said that once past an OEM warranty, anywhere from 10,000 to 18,000 miles, or one year, whichever comes first, is appropriate depending on conditions (dust, short trips). They also recommend changing just the oil filter at 6000 to 7000 miles as a precaution against overloading the filter. Redline further noted a caution when using synthetics with leaded fuels, as synthetics do not hold lead in suspension as well as mineral oil. Aviation is one area where leaded fuel is still widespread, and avgas is often used by off-road and racing enthusiasts, so a relatively short oil change interval may thus be indicated.
#16
Like I said don't get caught up in to much of the hype. Have you ever had an engine related oil falure or problem. Unless your doing an analysis frequently to monitor you vehicle if you that worried or anal you'll be fine using what is recommended.
Swiftoy
Swiftoy
#17
Originally Posted by 2007 Zx-10,Mar 1 2009, 04:01 PM
Given Mobil 1's less-than-comprehensive response, I think it'd be best to play it safe and go with using a mineral oil first and then moving on to synthetic. Does anyone know if there's anything special about the oil they first use in an S2000 from the factory, or is it just your typical 10W-30 mineral oil?
Thanks for the links.
#18
No disrespect, but why is it that people want to fix what isn't broken? If 10w-30 is what it takes and you are operating your vehicle well within its intended parameters, then there is no need to mess with it. As for the synthetic vs dino oil argument, here's what InlinePro has to say about it:
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Synthetic Oil Myths
Knowing that a person can never stop learning, I am always trying to better my knowledge. I was reading "Engine Builder," the magazine, and came across a great article by Pennzoil themselves.
Myth 1: Synthetic oils are too thin to stay in the engine.
This is not true. In order for a lubricant to be classified in any SAE grade (10W-30, 10W-40, etc.) it has to meet the viscosity guidelines, or thickness, specified by the vehicle manufacturer.
Pennzoil, "Tech Notes," Engine Builder, September 2006, 16.
Myth 3: You can
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Synthetic Oil Myths
Knowing that a person can never stop learning, I am always trying to better my knowledge. I was reading "Engine Builder," the magazine, and came across a great article by Pennzoil themselves.
Myth 1: Synthetic oils are too thin to stay in the engine.
This is not true. In order for a lubricant to be classified in any SAE grade (10W-30, 10W-40, etc.) it has to meet the viscosity guidelines, or thickness, specified by the vehicle manufacturer.
Pennzoil, "Tech Notes," Engine Builder, September 2006, 16.
Myth 3: You can
#20
What that shop's says is just their opinion, one of many that are out there. It is just what works the best for them. Besides, they were quoting even another source on this issue. The "fix that isn't broken" statement is not squarely aimed at you, but I wonder why would anyone run 0w-40 in their S, or ANY car that normally would take 5w30, 10w-30, etc. under normal circumstances. I guess that is beyond me. If anyone could explain that to me, I'd love to hear it.
Also, if most people don't know what they are talking about as you stated, then they should stick to recommendations coming from those that DO know about these kinds of things, for example, Honda recommending 10w-30 for MOST situations.
Also, if most people don't know what they are talking about as you stated, then they should stick to recommendations coming from those that DO know about these kinds of things, for example, Honda recommending 10w-30 for MOST situations.