speeeding

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Kwaalude
[B]I used redline on my '97 Prelude and after i did i got a MAJOR oil consumption problem....i could go through 4 quarts of oil in 800miles.

Kwaalude

[QUOTE]Originally posted by speeeding
[B]

Your not supposed to use Redline when you break in a motor. In fact, I think it even says on the bottle.

todaysivxx

anyways, when you do make your first oilchnage, the motor is broken in already.

s2oooboy

MTF is the oil u get from doing your change at Honda, right? UL changed back to this? Why?

S2000 Driver

This is what it says on the bottle of RED LINE SAE 10W30 HIGH-PERFORMANCE ALL-SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL:

Recommended for:
API CH-4/CG-4/CF/SJ/SH
The Greatest Protection for Gasoline and Diesel Engines
o Formulated for turbo protection
o Withstands extreme temperatures
o Lowest friction coefficient available
o Increases engine durability
o Excellent low-temperature flow
o Compatible with petroleums and synthetics
o Excellent results in high & low-mile engines
o Not for break-in of engines -- allow 3000 miles

"RED LINE HIGH-PERFORMANCE MOTOR OIL is an all-synthetic formula which is designed to provide the greatest protection possible by using the highest quality basestocks and additives. The polyol ester basestocks, which are the only lubricants capable of lubricating a modern jet turbine, provide very good high temperature stability -- much more stable than petroleums or other types of synthetics -- and keep the upper ring and turbo bearings clean. Red Line provides 25-50% less evaporation than most other synthetics of a comparable viscosity grade and 50-75% less consumption and wear, while improving engine efficiency. Red Line 10W30 pumps more quickly than a petroleum 5W30 down to temperatures of -30 degrees celsius and has a high natural viscosity index (VI), which provides better oil film thickness in bearings and cams than petroleum straight grades or multigrades. Red Line 10W30 provides 25% more bearing viscosity than than most petroleum 10W30s. The excellent thermal stability oxidation resistance, and ability to lubricate hot metal -- which is unequalled in any other oil -- makes Red Line a superior lubricant for turbochargers and highly stressed engines. The high detergency provides excellent engine cleanliness and wear protection for even extended drain intervals -- an improvement over any synthetic oil available. Red Line provides a 25% lower coefficient of friction than other synthetics and petroleums, yet is designed for motorcycle wet clutches. This lubricant is formulated to suit all major car, motorcyle, marine engine manufactureres' and diesel engine builders' requirements and is formulated to suit the requirements for ACEA E2, B3, and A3-96."

ultimate lurker

I recommend using Honda MTF in the gearbox until your warranty is up, simply because you don't want the dealer to have any excuse to not cover gearbox repairs (and if you track the car or drive hard you've got a good chance of needing them before warranty is up).

For the rear end, I've had excellent results with Redline Shockproof gear oil. I started with the heavyweight which offers superior protection with no increase in drag (according to redline). I then moved to lightweight which is supposed to offer less friction with equivalent or better protection to stock oils. If I were a cautious man I'd stick with the heavyweight. I change diff and tranny at least every 10k miles, more often during track season.

On the engine oil, several of us, with several different brands of car, have observed serious fuel mileage decreases with Mobil 1. I currently have a spreadsheet from one person and I am tracking my own mileage carefully. Suffice it to say that we both have seen mileage drop 2-3 mpg on average about 700-1000 miles after switching to Mobil 1. When going back conventional oil, mileage returns to normal within 500 or so miles. This is documented and I intend to try and get to the bottom of the issue - the article is being sponsored by VTEC.net, so look there in the next month or so. We've also seen problems on a Dodge Caravan, which is so far removed in engine design and driving loads from the S2K that I'm pretty sure its an oil issue. I also believe that Mobil 1 may cost a little power. I have some dyno sheets that lead me to believe this, but I haven't done a controlled test on my own. We'll do that too in the near future.

I don't know why this happens exactly, and I don't know if it happens with other synthetics. My engine even sounds a bit different with Mobil 1 (not as free revving). Is it interfering with combustion (some oil gets burned in every combustion event)? Is it a friction thing? I don't know, but I think it has something to do with OBDII, as my CRX doesn't seem to notice the differences.

UL

s2oooboy

I havnt put anything but the oil honda uses (thats the MTF stuff, right?). Glad I didnt switch to Mobil 1