Anyone else burning mobil 1 synethetic oil?
08-08-2009, 07:52 PM
#23
Registered User
+1 For Mobil1 being kaka. For comparison I used Mobil1 on my last oil change interval and I was burning up to a qt every 1k miles or so. I'm now using Royal Purple and I add about 1qt every 3k miles.
08-09-2009, 01:03 AM
#24
It's a combination of the AP1 and Mobil 1.
Standard Mobil 1 is a much more volatile oil than Mobil 1 EP, Redline or Amsoil.
The oil with the lowest volatility in the 10W30 range is Amsoil ATM 10W30. Amsoil ATM 10W30 is measurably better than any other 10W30 on the market in every key measured benchmark. The number 2 oil IMHO is Redline (not far behind, but a more expensive oil at a #2 position), and then Castrol Syntec 0W30 (GC - German Castrol), Valvoline SuperSyn, Mobil 1 EP, Pennzoil Platinum, and then surprisingly enough (unless you live in the arctic, the desert, or want to run an extended drain interval) Castrol GTX - a conventional oil. I am NOT a fan of any Royal Purple product and will never recommend any product they make. The worst oil products in the market - based on all the data I've looked at - is by far Lucas products. They are the epitome of marketing at the expense of engineering and have proven to be pure garbage. Royal Purple's street products don't fall far behind, in my opinion.
As mentioned before - the AP1 burns significantly more than the AP2, and that's purely a function of the higher redline under VTEC. All VTEC cars burn oil under VTEC and load. The higher the RPM, the higher the pressure under load, and the higher the burn rate. There is a HUGE difference between 8000 and 9000 RPM when measuring stresses in an engine. This also contributes to the increased burn rate, and the need for a much more stable oil. That's why I use Amsoil, and will continue to until I find a better product. FTR - I use Castrol (GC) 0W30 in my A3, due to the fact Amsoil doesn't make a VW 502 compliant oil worth using at this time (the only Amsoil certified with the VW 502 is their Euro 5W40, which has a Mobil 1 like volatility rating). Amsoil ATM 10W30 is the way to go in the S2000 IMHO.
If you're too lazy to order an oil from a website (www.amsoil.com or www.redlineoil.com), then feel free to read back for other alternates in my list.
Anything but Amsoil, Redline, or GC 0W30 can be bought at just about any store. GC 0W30 can be bought at Pep Boys or AutoZone.
However, check the serial number on the bottle - there's a lot of old GC floating around on the market and most syn oils have a 3-year shelf life (Amsoil claims up to 5 years for some of their oils... don't know if I'd go with that though).
Most Castrol syn oils have a serial number beginning with an "M" and then a series of numbers. The first two numbers following the "M" are the year of manufacture. Therefore, an oil produced in 2008 will have a serial number that resembles: M08XXXXATWXXXXXX
X (except with numbers in place of the Xs).
Good luck - and I would seriously consider getting a high burn oil like standard Mobil 1 out of your car sooner than later. It seems that once a car starts consistently burning oil - it will not get much better no matter what oil you go to. It may be a wear or deposit thing related to the valve guides based on some info gleaned from Endyne.
Standard Mobil 1 is a much more volatile oil than Mobil 1 EP, Redline or Amsoil.
The oil with the lowest volatility in the 10W30 range is Amsoil ATM 10W30. Amsoil ATM 10W30 is measurably better than any other 10W30 on the market in every key measured benchmark. The number 2 oil IMHO is Redline (not far behind, but a more expensive oil at a #2 position), and then Castrol Syntec 0W30 (GC - German Castrol), Valvoline SuperSyn, Mobil 1 EP, Pennzoil Platinum, and then surprisingly enough (unless you live in the arctic, the desert, or want to run an extended drain interval) Castrol GTX - a conventional oil. I am NOT a fan of any Royal Purple product and will never recommend any product they make. The worst oil products in the market - based on all the data I've looked at - is by far Lucas products. They are the epitome of marketing at the expense of engineering and have proven to be pure garbage. Royal Purple's street products don't fall far behind, in my opinion.
As mentioned before - the AP1 burns significantly more than the AP2, and that's purely a function of the higher redline under VTEC. All VTEC cars burn oil under VTEC and load. The higher the RPM, the higher the pressure under load, and the higher the burn rate. There is a HUGE difference between 8000 and 9000 RPM when measuring stresses in an engine. This also contributes to the increased burn rate, and the need for a much more stable oil. That's why I use Amsoil, and will continue to until I find a better product. FTR - I use Castrol (GC) 0W30 in my A3, due to the fact Amsoil doesn't make a VW 502 compliant oil worth using at this time (the only Amsoil certified with the VW 502 is their Euro 5W40, which has a Mobil 1 like volatility rating). Amsoil ATM 10W30 is the way to go in the S2000 IMHO.
If you're too lazy to order an oil from a website (www.amsoil.com or www.redlineoil.com), then feel free to read back for other alternates in my list.
Anything but Amsoil, Redline, or GC 0W30 can be bought at just about any store. GC 0W30 can be bought at Pep Boys or AutoZone.
However, check the serial number on the bottle - there's a lot of old GC floating around on the market and most syn oils have a 3-year shelf life (Amsoil claims up to 5 years for some of their oils... don't know if I'd go with that though).
Most Castrol syn oils have a serial number beginning with an "M" and then a series of numbers. The first two numbers following the "M" are the year of manufacture. Therefore, an oil produced in 2008 will have a serial number that resembles: M08XXXXATWXXXXXX
X (except with numbers in place of the Xs). Good luck - and I would seriously consider getting a high burn oil like standard Mobil 1 out of your car sooner than later. It seems that once a car starts consistently burning oil - it will not get much better no matter what oil you go to. It may be a wear or deposit thing related to the valve guides based on some info gleaned from Endyne.
08-09-2009, 08:48 AM
#25
Originally Posted by SgtB,Aug 6 2009, 10:39 PM
Switch oils. I burn way less valvoline synthetic.
Switched to Castrol GTX high milage. I'm at 130k, No more proplems & savivg $
Also gonna get a Billman modified TCT for good measure
08-09-2009, 12:22 PM
#26
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switch to regular oil synthetic oil sucks for our cars because they rev high and the viscosity is thicker on regular conventional oil instead of synthetic...i had this problem and i switch and so far the problem has gone away
08-10-2009, 12:46 AM
#27
Registered User
I drive my S pretty normal, never getting any where near 9k. And it seem it only burn 1 quart at 3500 miles. I don't think that to bad, but it could be like my civic where it doesn't burn any oil
08-13-2009, 07:41 PM
#29
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I'm just learning to wrench on the car fellas. What's a TCT and where do I check out Crankvents? Gotta '03 with AP1.
I've used Mobil 1 on my race bikes for years with unbelievable good results. They rev a lot higher than 9k so its tough for me to believe that Mobil 1 is the issue. Once lost the tag off an engine with Mobil 1 drained, but not refilled. Rider had practiced for 2 hours (admittedly it was a pretty cool night) with complaining about engine noise everytime he went airborne. When we pulled the bike into the trailer to check the engine we found it had no oil (we'd not put any in after draining the Mobil 1 from the previous ride). Hard to believe, but I swear its the truth. Two hours on a racebike with no oil except what film was left from the Mobil 1 being drained.
I've used Mobil 1 on my race bikes for years with unbelievable good results. They rev a lot higher than 9k so its tough for me to believe that Mobil 1 is the issue. Once lost the tag off an engine with Mobil 1 drained, but not refilled. Rider had practiced for 2 hours (admittedly it was a pretty cool night) with complaining about engine noise everytime he went airborne. When we pulled the bike into the trailer to check the engine we found it had no oil (we'd not put any in after draining the Mobil 1 from the previous ride). Hard to believe, but I swear its the truth. Two hours on a racebike with no oil except what film was left from the Mobil 1 being drained.
