anybody else with ripped engine mounts?
#21
Registered User
Originally Posted by Josh_With_The_S2K,May 23 2009, 05:38 AM
^ Im curious to this question aswell
anyone know?
anyone know?
Maybe I didn't make it clear.
Jack up engine
Undo upper mount nut (secures mount to bracket)
Undo bracket
Undowe lower mount nuts
You will need various extension bars to perform this WITHOUT rmeoving the manifold (Header)
#22
Originally Posted by Ultra_Nexus,May 22 2009, 10:29 PM
You will need various extension bars to perform this WITHOUT rmeoving the manifold (Header)
the passenger side was easy. i put a 3/8" ratchet on the top nut then reefed on the ratchet from underneith the car. this loosened the nut pretty easily. no funky extensions were required. if anyone wants to do this on their own car, i suggest doing it on a cold engine so you don't burn yourself on the exhaust manifold.
driver side was a huge pain in the ass. there was very little space to get at the bracket bolts and even less space to wiggle the mount in/out. i had to remove the bolts 1 ratchet click at a time. the top nut was also very difficult to get at (extensions didn't work because there were too many hoses + intake manifold in the way). if anyone is going to do this, i suggest disconnecting the battery because the starter 12V terminal is located very close to the aluminum bracket. it's pretty easy to accidentally short out the battery.
#23
[QUOTE=Ultra_Nexus,May 22 2009, 08:14 PM] Mine happened at 49k miles:
It was full of water too!
I only noticed it when I went to change my manifold (Header as you guys call it).
Jacked the engine up, removed the mount...oops - 2 pieces
Wasn't going to pay the $300 odd it would have cost me (Parts here are a rip-off) so I bought some Polyurethane sealent for $10 and repaired it - a trick I learned from my Civic days.
It was full of water too!
I only noticed it when I went to change my manifold (Header as you guys call it).
Jacked the engine up, removed the mount...oops - 2 pieces
Wasn't going to pay the $300 odd it would have cost me (Parts here are a rip-off) so I bought some Polyurethane sealent for $10 and repaired it - a trick I learned from my Civic days.
#24
Registered User
#26
Registered User
Originally Posted by Slows2k,May 9 2009, 12:04 AM
Repeated high RPM shifts puts stress on the mounts, downshifts do to. Even when mount breaks the steel travel limiter stops the mount from separating completely.
Lots of Honda's break mounts, Odysseys, Accords, Civics etc. A S2k with broken mounts doesn't let the engine hit the hood like a 98-02 Accord V6
Lots of Honda's break mounts, Odysseys, Accords, Civics etc. A S2k with broken mounts doesn't let the engine hit the hood like a 98-02 Accord V6
Thanks.
#27
all this talk about broken engine mounts worries me. what EXACTLY should i look for? i went out to the car just now and with both hands on the valve cover i tried to rock the engine back and forth. it moved slightly but then again so did the whole car. nothing seems terribly off. it has 99K miles and is driven hard on the street from time to time but has never been tracked or autocrossed since i bought it at 70K miles.
#28
Former Moderator
Originally Posted by FF2Skip,Jul 15 2010, 08:04 PM
Chris, I just saw what appears to be a small puddle from a torn mount. It would've happened at Road Atlanta. I do not have time to fix before the Ultimate Track Car Challenge next week at VIR. Possible further complications from tracking another weekend on it? It is the driver's side.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Given you history with the car, I'd run it and use it as an excuse for a shitty lap time.
#29
Registered User
Originally Posted by Slows2k,Jul 16 2010, 12:16 AM
You may notice some trouble shifting, but doubtful. Usually the passengers (US spec right) side mount breaks 1st, then the drivers (US left) after being run with the other mount broken.
Given you history with the car, I'd run it and use it as an excuse for a shitty lap time.
Given you history with the car, I'd run it and use it as an excuse for a shitty lap time.