Any Truth to "Blowing Out the Carbon" ?
08-30-2011, 11:55 AM
#21
Carl Lindell's(owned the dealership I worked for 7 years) his P/A had an S2000 as soon as they came out, the break in period is important as she found out. Her car needed a new engine with 87 miles on it, she was the first one to drive it too. Lindell made sure that even the tech did not drive it. Either that or SSM just dont measure up 
08-30-2011, 11:59 AM
#22
if there is any truth to "blowing out the carbon" my car will not need it, I drive it like I solte it regualrly enough.. Even my 91 Accord , when it had the throttle body service done at 175K miles was Very clean. I drive it to the redline too. 
08-30-2011, 12:03 PM
#23
This is definitely true as well. My dad's taurus rarely sees over 35mph in city driving because he works locally. About every 6 months like clockwork, he gets a CEL for the rear O2 sensor. I clear the CEL and take it on the highway for an italian tune-up and he's good for another 6 months
08-30-2011, 10:54 PM
#24
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If the Italian tune-up is about cleaning sensors and injectors (and the ECU compensating for it) it has to do with fuel quality?
A couple of years ago I had a phone conservation with a Shell tech person about using the Dutch version of Shell V-Power (RON 97) in the S2000 and he claimed it was no problem at all.
He also mentioned Shell fuels are slightly different in every country.
I've noticed the car running a better on Dutch BP Ultimate (RON 98).
It runs even better on the German Aral Ultimate RON 102 - I think Aral is linked to BP.
But one doesn't drive slow on the Autbahn to get it
It is logical to ignore the manufacturer's recommendation about break-in, what do they know about the engine?
Especially for the first 600 miles, take it to redline when you can.
Just forget about FRM, it's nothing special, it is like white chrome.
It wears just as fast.
Also, dump the factory oil fill as soon as you can, do not listen to the manufacturer about using dino oil for break-in and the first service interval.
(Or even the second if the interval is short)
Oh well....
A couple of years ago I had a phone conservation with a Shell tech person about using the Dutch version of Shell V-Power (RON 97) in the S2000 and he claimed it was no problem at all.
He also mentioned Shell fuels are slightly different in every country.
I've noticed the car running a better on Dutch BP Ultimate (RON 98).
It runs even better on the German Aral Ultimate RON 102 - I think Aral is linked to BP.
But one doesn't drive slow on the Autbahn to get it
It is logical to ignore the manufacturer's recommendation about break-in, what do they know about the engine?
Especially for the first 600 miles, take it to redline when you can.
Just forget about FRM, it's nothing special, it is like white chrome.
It wears just as fast.
Also, dump the factory oil fill as soon as you can, do not listen to the manufacturer about using dino oil for break-in and the first service interval.
(Or even the second if the interval is short)
Oh well....
08-31-2011, 03:44 AM
#25
Im not sure where people are thinking this carbon sits. I mean Ive been into a few honda motors, and as long as the oil change interval is suitable for the variables, there may be a bit of carbon on the piston tops and some on the exhaust valves, but really not much where I can see would affect performance.
Is break in a myth? Im just trying to establish a link between wear-in (break-in) and regular wear. I mean technically a motor is always wearing isnt it?
Is break in a myth? Im just trying to establish a link between wear-in (break-in) and regular wear. I mean technically a motor is always wearing isnt it?
08-31-2011, 05:23 AM
#26
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In area's where, under certain conditions, an oil film seperates moving parts the wear is zero.
Some of those conditions include surface condition of the moving parts, load on the moving parts, oil temperature and oil additives.
So the longer you keep your engine in that sweet spot the less total wear you will see.
No mass production way will produce the surface condition you want/need for the wear to be zero.
This is where break-in comes into play.
A relatively hard & strong material with a relatively rough surface needs more time to wear (break-in).
If the surface is still too rough and the load is too high you break the oil film and you get unwanted wear.
If you want to polish something you don't go from a 100 grit to polishing paper.
You need a lot of steps.
Some of those conditions include surface condition of the moving parts, load on the moving parts, oil temperature and oil additives.
So the longer you keep your engine in that sweet spot the less total wear you will see.
No mass production way will produce the surface condition you want/need for the wear to be zero.
This is where break-in comes into play.
A relatively hard & strong material with a relatively rough surface needs more time to wear (break-in).
If the surface is still too rough and the load is too high you break the oil film and you get unwanted wear.
If you want to polish something you don't go from a 100 grit to polishing paper.
You need a lot of steps.
08-31-2011, 04:30 PM
#28
Thread Starter
Im not sure where people are thinking this carbon sits. I mean Ive been into a few honda motors, and as long as the oil change interval is suitable for the variables, there may be a bit of carbon on the piston tops and some on the exhaust valves, but really not much where I can see would affect performance.
Is break in a myth? Im just trying to establish a link between wear-in (break-in) and regular wear. I mean technically a motor is always wearing isnt it?
Is break in a myth? Im just trying to establish a link between wear-in (break-in) and regular wear. I mean technically a motor is always wearing isnt it?
As I stated before blowing out the carbon is just an old phrase from the good ol days.
09-01-2011, 09:29 AM
#29
The initial post was about "blowing out the carbon" on an older car, not about break-in. I'm wondering about that myself as well. Would driving an older car really hard (redline) occasionally help keep power up to snuff? I've got a 2000 Celica GTS that I don't drive very hard at all. Power seems way down from what it was when I got it 8 years ago. I don't know whether this is some sort of particulate buildup in the engine, or just the engine losing compression. I'm scared to redline the motor too much with 188k miles.
I wouldn't worry too much. You need to redline the engine from time to time to keep everything in good running order. My Integra GSR has 286k miles and I still redline almost every time I drive it.
09-02-2011, 07:04 AM
#30
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Been driving my car hard since I left the lot on the test drive with four miles. No way I was buying it without seeing what it was about. The salesman was like easy if you don't want it someone else.still might. Lol. I've been driving like that since 08 and with regular maintenance I've seen zero problems other than my tct.