Any tricks,on how to install...
#2
Every bolt, except the very last one (closest to the firewall) must be removed. That last one only needs to be loosened as it's installed in a slot. You are best to get those with a rachetting box end wrench.
Then you can cut it with a hole saw attachment on a drill.
Then you can cut it with a hole saw attachment on a drill.
#3
Originally Posted by Emil St-Hilaire,May 1 2006, 05:41 PM
Bought an Alex engine damper.
Any tricks on how to cut a hole through th heatshield,without removing it???
PITA to remove...
-Emil.
Any tricks on how to cut a hole through th heatshield,without removing it???
PITA to remove...
-Emil.
#5
Originally Posted by Dr. WOT,May 1 2006, 07:19 PM
forgive the n00b question, but what does this thing do?
You know when cars/engines get older and more mileage racks up on the engine they tend to vibrate more. Thats with any car. This helps allieviate that symptom and allow smoother shifting at higher RPMs. Other than that, it looks pretty.
And of course a quote from Ben at AJ Racing..
"Reduces engine flex in order to get the power to the ground without vibration to the chassis."
#6
Originally Posted by JsAP1,May 1 2006, 07:29 PM
By definition the ETD (basically a small shock) is suppose to help with engine stability/flex at high RPM shifts and stablization with higher mileage cars. I had one on my S2k for 4 years and just took it off before I sold the car and honestly didnt notice any change but keep in mind my car only had 68,000 miles on it.
You know when cars/engines get older and more mileage racks up on the engine they tend to vibrate more. Thats with any car. This helps allieviate that symptom and allow smoother shifting at higher RPMs. Other than that, it looks pretty.
And of course a quote from Ben at AJ Racing..
"Reduces engine flex in order to get the power to the ground without vibration to the chassis."
You know when cars/engines get older and more mileage racks up on the engine they tend to vibrate more. Thats with any car. This helps allieviate that symptom and allow smoother shifting at higher RPMs. Other than that, it looks pretty.
And of course a quote from Ben at AJ Racing..
"Reduces engine flex in order to get the power to the ground without vibration to the chassis."
it's used to support the motor plus it's used to damper some of the vibrating and frequency from the motor.
not sure will it cause more vibrate(in cabin) just like filling the mounts with urtherane(window weld)
I wouldn't even bother with it
#7
Originally Posted by iam7head,May 1 2006, 10:29 PM
the thing is, the motor mount are design to have some flex in it.
it's used to support the motor plus it's used to damper some of the vibrating and frequency from the motor.
not sure will it cause more vibrate(in cabin) just like filling the mounts with urtherane(window weld)
I wouldn't even bother with it
it's used to support the motor plus it's used to damper some of the vibrating and frequency from the motor.
not sure will it cause more vibrate(in cabin) just like filling the mounts with urtherane(window weld)
I wouldn't even bother with it
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#8
This thing ETD,is made to dampen the "Extreme "torque of the F 20 and F 22,engines....
Used to rig chains,or steel wires on old V-8.
Thank's Guys,for the advice..
So,if I get you right,it wold be easier to take the shield off.???
Looks like a PITA,can't even see the bolts...
Used to rig chains,or steel wires on old V-8.
Thank's Guys,for the advice..
So,if I get you right,it wold be easier to take the shield off.???
Looks like a PITA,can't even see the bolts...
#9
Originally Posted by Emil St-Hilaire,May 2 2006, 03:04 AM
So,if I get you right,it wold be easier to take the shield off.???
Looks like a PITA,can't even see the bolts...
Looks like a PITA,can't even see the bolts...
Here, you see all the bolt holes in the heatshield (note the slot on the last one):
Here, you will see that last bolt (which stays on the car):
You must remove the stock header heatshield and have little hands.
#10
the front 3 bolts are very easy to get to. the last one is hard without a ratcheting 10 mm. I'd go to autozone and get one. Hell, they sell a 8-17 mm set at target for like 20 bucks.. not the best quality or specs, but it will get r. done.
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